764 replies to this topic

[Tupers]

I managed to pop down for a bit this evening to do a bit more one FOM. I had hoped to be down all day but had to cover for someone at my other job.

I crawled back under the front and finished off plug welding the toe board plate in, ground the excess down and whacked some primer on.






I also started on the reinforcing plate for the top the exhaust tunnel that internal **** mechanism will sit on.




This my brothers internal shifter that I'll be replicating for the estate.

[Andrew O]

Looking good, what's the benefit of having a internal shifter if you don't mind me asking ?

[george91]

Its for better ground clearance on lowered cars, it allows you to tuck the exhaust up in tunnel. Looks good by the way. :)

[grahama]

It does indeed look good, as ever. Great fabrication work all through this project, keep it up.

Graham

[Tupers]

As George said I'm using the internal shift mechanism to gain a little more ground clearance and save it from getting smacked as I'll be running about 3" for the tarmac.

[ukshadow]

the internal remote out of your brothers car looks solid mounted is that true im asking as i have 1 i removed from a van which was mounted with rubbers to allow for any engine movement and when i finally get around to it i was going to fit it into mine.

[Tupers]

Yes his and mine are both solid mounted as well as having extra steadies on the engines to stop them moving.

I have seen some rubber mounted internal linkages but then you need to keep both the shifter rod and the stabiliser rod going to the gearbox which I've never thought look very nice.

Edited by Tupers, 21 February 2012 - 09:54 PM.

[Tupers]

Got back down again this evening and started by seam welding the reinforcing plate to the tunnel.


I took a little inspiration from Matts mount and came up with this.


Added a nice swaged hole at the front for the shift rod to come through.


It sits quite nicely in the car slightly further back that standard and obviously about 3 inches higher up.

[Tupers]

I got a seat and column back into FOM this afternoon before getting the gear stick where I liked it and tacking the mounts in place. On the final build I'll be using a start style gear stick not a quick crunch though.


I also had a little play with the shrinker/stretcher + hole swager and started making the rear section for my '69 Camaro SS style bonnet bulge.


The bulge will be 3CM higher than the scuttle and overlap it by another 3/4CM while tapering from 48CM wide at the back to 34CM at the front.

Edited by Tupers, 23 February 2012 - 11:29 PM.

[leaky]

Love that shifter! You done a good job with that.

[Tupers]

Thanks leaky, I've seen it done a few other ways but I'm rather fond of mine.

I got the shifter brackets welded in this afternoon and did most of the reinforcing plate for the N/S toe board but no pics as it's just the same as the O/S.

[Tupers]

Had a bit of spare time after lunch so I popped down and finished welding the toe board pate in. I don't think they'll be going anywhere in a hurry.

[Tupers]

I got the final smoothing work done on the radius arms done yesterday. I used a 60 grit flap wheel then a 100 grit disc on the linisher and finally a soft scotch brite disc. Now they just need etch primer, lots of high build and loads of flatting.


I also bolted my top arms on and pulled my fancy bottom arms and tie bars out ready to get the front rolling.

[george91]

Nice work, i think you should just lacquer the radius arms, so shiney haha.

[ukshadow]

Nice work, i think you should just lacquer the radius arms, so shiney haha.

i agree it would look cool