
Mk1 Door Hinges On Later Doors
#31
Posted 01 January 2010 - 12:34 AM
Basically after you’ve striped the winder, glass and window seal from the door, carefully cut a slot at each end that the chrome sealing strip would fit on the inside of the door (sorry I don’t have a pick at the mo) and then carefully while holding something solid up inside the door, hammer over the lip to form a ledge as something to screw the mk1 window sliders to.
Then it’s just a case of fitting the requited w shaped window seal to the doorframe, cutting the windows (I eventually plan on having glass made) resting it all, that the 2 windows and some more of the felt w channel onto the chrome slider rail, lining it all up with the door and screwing it in place at each end. Then it’s just a case of working out the catches and drill holes and fitting those.
#32
Posted 01 January 2010 - 09:48 AM
The windows are exactly the same as if they were on a mk1, but you wouldn’t be able to use the glass as the windows are smaller on the mk1’s, that would be far too simples.
Basically after you’ve striped the winder, glass and window seal from the door, carefully cut a slot at each end that the chrome sealing strip would fit on the inside of the door (sorry I don’t have a pick at the mo) and then carefully while holding something solid up inside the door, hammer over the lip to form a ledge as something to screw the mk1 window sliders to.
Then it’s just a case of fitting the requited w shaped window seal to the doorframe, cutting the windows (I eventually plan on having glass made) resting it all, that the 2 windows and some more of the felt w channel onto the chrome slider rail, lining it all up with the door and screwing it in place at each end. Then it’s just a case of working out the catches and drill holes and fitting those.
Hi 1984Mini25, I've got the streetfighter doors that i need to get on with, the problem i'm having is working out how to stop the water running to the ends and falling down into the door. When you bent the lip over as my doors are, did you seal the ends at all? If you have a photo of the door?
I'm thinking of welding in bits to seal the door from top to bottom so the water can't get to the bottom half and will be putting sealant under the W shaped strip up against the outer edge to stop water running under the W strip. But water in the W strip will have to get out and will obviously go to the ends so i'm thinking of putting holes in the end of the door frame like the very early Mk1's but they have them under the level of the W rail as they also have a complete gutter underneath.
Dave
#33
Posted 01 January 2010 - 03:53 PM
If you try to seal them too much you might just end up with the water coming in inside.
But then the Mayfair I have isn’t going to be a daily driver; I’ll still use the 25 for that, so I don’t see how a bit of water inside the doors once in a blue moon will do much harm.
#34
Posted 02 January 2010 - 03:44 PM
I’ve just stuffed a bit extra w sealing strip down each end of the doorframe. In the hope that any water that will find it’s way down the frame inside and down the channels the old winding glass would have used and out the bottom of the drainage holes. I’ve seam sealed and under sealed the insides of the doors anyway, which should help if any water did find its way in.
If you try to seal them too much you might just end up with the water coming in inside.
But then the Mayfair I have isn’t going to be a daily driver; I’ll still use the 25 for that, so I don’t see how a bit of water inside the doors once in a blue moon will do much harm.
Cheers for that. I guess i'll seal all the seams too and make sure the inside gets a nice thick coat of paint like the outside and then hopefully the rust will be held off.
#35
Posted 17 February 2010 - 09:10 PM
Not sure if you even fancy fake ones, but Arc Angles have just started a pre-order for plastic external hinges.
Not sure of price, but they are on the website, and they even paint to your color.
http://www.the-arc-angels.co.uk/
Ta
Steve
#36
Posted 17 February 2010 - 10:39 PM
stiffener gussets


I can't see how the fake hinges would work as on the mk3+ minis the door actually hinges into
the the door opening as it opens so the fake hinges would need a lot of gap between each half
to prvent fouling.. I can recall someone commenting on this point...
#37
Posted 19 February 2010 - 10:19 PM
#38
Posted 21 February 2010 - 12:30 PM
I'm sure there is a market opening there

#39
Posted 18 June 2012 - 01:46 PM
#40
Posted 10 July 2012 - 06:19 PM
Still only thinking about it but would be great if you could scan the images.
My only other thought is to strip out the wind up windows and get the sliding window set from plastic4performance or maybe later a fiberglass door to really reduce the weight. I do agree with the comments on the weight of the standard Mk3 doors being a lot but as long as the stiffening bracket is in then the problem should be okay. I do still worry though lol as the last thing I want is a sagging door!!
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