Model: City E 1ltr
Year: 1981
Hi All,
I'm in the process of getting my wife's mini road worthy. I had it pre-MOT checked a few months ago now and it failed on quite a few bits.
I've got the main bits done (new trailing arms on both sides and new brake pistons on both sides rear). When I came to bleed the brakes I was seeing no fluid at the rears. completely disconnect the pipes and tried again but still nothing. I tried constantly pumping and also the pump...pause for 3 secons...release and wait for 15 seconds (as stated in Haynes manual) but still nothing.
A Mechanic from the local garage came and had a look for me and said he thought the seals in the Master Cylinder had gone - time to repair it.
I've now got a kit from MiniSpares and am ready to go. I've not looked in the Haynes manaual as yet to see if there are any walkthroughs on this but thought I would ask on here in case there wasn't and also for any 'gotchas'.
I'm going to removing the Master Cylinder tomorrow morning (it's the GMC167) and plan to repair it tomorrow after work ready for a refit and bleed on friday (day off work - yay!).
Any help or advice greatly received.
Regards,
Wayne

Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild - Infor Required
Started by
dotnetter
, Dec 02 2009 10:00 PM
2 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 02 December 2009 - 10:00 PM
#2
Posted 02 December 2009 - 11:09 PM
It could be the brake bias valve. If you follow the pipes out of the master cylinder it will lead to the valve on the front bulkhead.
I had similar happen to me. The bad news if it is this then its quite expensive to get these new.
Do you have front to rear split or diagonal split brakes?? I have only done front to rear split types as follows:-
Undo the 2 1/2 inch (13mm) nuts holding the master cylinder on. Take out the clevis pin attaching the master cylinder to the brake pedal (quite fiddily, from under the dash). Undo the two brake lines and take off the master cylinder. Try to drain it first.
To take the seals out you need
Remove the rubber boot (just pulls off)
Remove the circlip with some circlip pliers (or small needle nose)
Take the first plunger out.
Knock out roll pin that holds reservoir on and pull off the reservoir
Now under the upper feed on the master cylinder from under the reservoir there is a flat pin. Pull this out with some needle nose pliers and the second plunger should come out.
Job done.
Have a good check of the seals and if there are no obvious splits/damage then it could be brake bias valve, but before you condem it try blowing an air line from the engine bay to the rear brakes.
Hope this helps
I had similar happen to me. The bad news if it is this then its quite expensive to get these new.
Do you have front to rear split or diagonal split brakes?? I have only done front to rear split types as follows:-
Undo the 2 1/2 inch (13mm) nuts holding the master cylinder on. Take out the clevis pin attaching the master cylinder to the brake pedal (quite fiddily, from under the dash). Undo the two brake lines and take off the master cylinder. Try to drain it first.
To take the seals out you need
Remove the rubber boot (just pulls off)
Remove the circlip with some circlip pliers (or small needle nose)
Take the first plunger out.
Knock out roll pin that holds reservoir on and pull off the reservoir
Now under the upper feed on the master cylinder from under the reservoir there is a flat pin. Pull this out with some needle nose pliers and the second plunger should come out.
Job done.
Have a good check of the seals and if there are no obvious splits/damage then it could be brake bias valve, but before you condem it try blowing an air line from the engine bay to the rear brakes.
Hope this helps
#3
Posted 03 December 2009 - 09:17 AM
know you said you disconected the pieps but where ?
did you checked you have fliud at the rear before the flexie hoses as they can collaspe see it many times if car been stood
did you checked you have fliud at the rear before the flexie hoses as they can collaspe see it many times if car been stood
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