
Right, back on it!
You just need an air gun now so you can swap the pulleys over
Now Mr Burns, when you say air gun did you actually mean a cheapy RAC impact gun from argos?


Its come in handy a few times, and again by the looks of it, pulleys off


Swapped the larger honda pulley on the suzuki (as the suzuki one was bent) and got my trusty flex wire out (angle grinder for the technical people!) and tied it all up, don't worry the 'belt' isn't hitting the cam side mount bolt, its offset

Looks good but sits way too close to the inner wing, only a couple of mm clearance, definitely no room when the engine rocks back on acceleration

I could make life easy for myself and cut out a bit more of the wing or just get another suzuki pulley which is slighter shorter and should give clearance but I don't do easy life! decided to be awkward and make the honda alternator that didn't fit before fit instead!
Gotta lose one of the holding screws moulds on the body - as mentioned before, its got another three so it'll live!

This now gives me around 5mm clearance before it hits the tower bolt, still not enough, want a bit more, so I'm getting a very much needed person to make the already slotted hole on the alternator bracket a bit longer

He's also gonna make me a spacer as the two bottom mounting holes are a different size to another for some reason?

This new 'slot' will enable me to raise the bracket higher another 20-25mm or so using the honda alternator, which means it'll clear the tower bolt and its still got around another 30-35mm clearance to the bonnet - thats my theory anyway!

Then decided to throw the 1.8 type-r in, as I kinda like need something in there to work around!


Wing is sitting on the cam!



Bit more chopping needed
Next job was the front end, decided to take another one of my one step forward two steps back routine! and re-do the brackets to hold the front end on, wasn't happy with the first lot I done, much happier with these ones, sits a little closer to the scuttles now, still got around a 5mm gap but will use some foam padding there to keep the paintwork safe when the front end is moving about

I like this next picture, shows how close everything is to one another

Fuel pressure gauge come through aswell, B&M one, as I got an adjustable fuel pressure regulator this might help


Then hit a snag, the fuel pressure regulator I bought has a different fitting to my AEM fuel rail, apparently honda uses two fittings - inline and offset, my FPR is the latter!

So now bought a new inline one

Right DIALS!
Incase anyone was wondering why the hell I was buying gauges and 'rising sun' mounting plates for them which will ruin the standard look on my dash.....please remember there is always a method to my madness! I sometimes get an idea and jot it down on paper but unfortunately I don't know if gonna be a wasted effort or not, only one way to find out, I did it with the alternator bracket and these gauges are no different

I got these 'rising sun' adjustable baseplates as I figured they could be broken up, which they did, they will be cleaned up, this is just for picture purposes.......

then using the inside 'supports' of my glovebox for my now thin baseplates.......

They sit nicely inside - just


Driver view

Top view to show left side is not affecting anything but right side sticks out

No problem though, the two on the right just click back and alls good again


And I can click them 'flat' if I need to get to any fuses/relays/speedo cable etc
Because they are set a distance away I just need some big numbers showing, nothing fancy just numbers

Sorted, when I say standard I stand by it

Next job - measure up for radiator fitment and worry