1065 replies to this topic

[mini_mad69]

Might need LSD but I want to see what its like first without it......

Im going to say you would probably enjoy it just fine without the LSD buddy.






Ha ha

[Kam]

Just say no kids, to drugs, lsd......and engine swaps

[ginger_monkey]

the next problem - my link pipe is 2" and I'm gonna need 2.5" for a 1.8! so that means its gotta drop even lower so the bigger link pipe can clear my gear linkage and tunnel, it was already close as it is

I'm running a 2" exhaust mate. I don't think you need to go to 2.5"

[Nick Warwick]

this just gets better and better

[Burnard]

Why not get some rover 12inch mini lites? Or are you still sticking with the steels?


What is/ was the top speed of this?

[Kam]

I'm running a 2" exhaust mate. I don't think you need to go to 2.5"

I reckon you should go 2.5" Chris, your probably missing out alot of performance with the 2" I know its hassle mate but let your engine breathe!

Why not get some rover 12inch mini lites? Or are you still sticking with the steels?

What is/ was the top speed of this?

No way man! I'm keeping my steelies for sure! I'm not sure why you don't like them, they are awesome! Rover minilites just look like normal alloy wheels to me, whereas my steelies make the car look much much slower - FACT The car has to look normal and something like my gran would drive Also the standard wheels on a Rio are these, don't look to much into the clubby front - this build won't be finished untill a roundnose is on there

Top speed? Don't know, don't care, I've never pushed it to the max, at the 'ring on the straight I know I hit near 7000rpm in fifth but then backed off as I remembered I was still carrying the roof rack!

Hopefully when the engine is built and I take it to the rollers to get it mapped I will be unhooking the rev counter and speedo and giving them the go-ahead to bounce it off 8600rpm in fifth so I know where I stand, I know my valvetrain can handle it.......I just hope my engine after I've rebuilt it can aswell!

[mini_mad69]

Hopefully when the engine is built and I take it to the rollers to get it mapped I will be unhooking the rev counter and speedo and giving them the go-ahead to bounce it off 8600rpm in fifth so I know where I stand, I know my valvetrain can handle it.......I just hope my engine after I've rebuilt it can aswell!

You've mentioned this a few times. Now i've been in a car with a 90mph speedo and they've gone way over 90 pushing around nearing towards the 0mph again, nearly.

Not sure about the rev counter but I've flicked these around with my finger moving the mechanism without any input. Then plugged it in and it still worked fine, my point here is that the needle was moving differently to what the mechanism was doing, so going to 8600 rpm will probably just move around the clock a bit further.


I could be wrong and do not want to be held responsible if your gauges are damaged, but I think you'll be ok.

I think it'll be great being completly standard on the exterior, and with only the slightly (un noticable) changed gearstick.

No one will know. Until you relaise the beast! Looking great kam. I hope to see it in action at the ring later in the year

[ginger_monkey]

I'm running a 2" exhaust mate. I don't think you need to go to 2.5"

I reckon you should go 2.5" Chris, your probably missing out alot of performance with the 2" I know its hassle mate but let your engine breathe!

The car it came off was a 2" mate so not 100% weather it'll make that much more difference.

[Boothy]

Love the way this car is and going, you deffinatly need to keep the steelies they do make it look slower

[Kam]

and with only the slightly (un noticable) changed gearstick

Well spotted mate, don't worry as I've got plans for it

I've been told the rev counter will go past 8k but the springs behind will wear much quicker and eventually give way so we'll see, the speedo is having a conversion cable made up at the moment and I'm sure that will be fine past 110 but I like to worry

The car it came off was a 2" mate so not 100% weather it'll make that much more difference

Sorry Chris, I forgot yours is a c4, got c6 on the brain at the moment, yeah the 2" is ideal for 1.6 and 1.8's

Love the way this car is and going, you deffinatly need to keep the steelies they do make it look slower

Cheers mate, as the car looks normal and slow its got nothing to prove so nothing to lose

[Burnard]

Its gone quiet....


Dont worry about that PM, i went to the dealship today and measured up a rad, £250 is a bit steep though

Its to tell from the pics, were you running a header tank on the rad with the 1600 setup?

[Kam]

Its gone quiet....


Dont worry about that PM, i went to the dealship today and measured up a rad, £250 is a bit steep though

Its to tell from the pics, were you running a header tank on the rad with the 1600 setup?

Quiet? You mean an update? Ermm there isn't any! I'm still reading me book

If you do still need the measurements I can get them for you in the morning, I've just got in from work and are comfy now so don't fancy walking out in the dark

And yeah I was running the standard civic header tank, its a bit massive so try and find a smaller one, some people run without one but thats there choice, all I know is it will wee itself after a good drive and that wee needs to go somewhere.....

[Burnard]

It cant be that big, ive looked at all your pics and i cant see it

Dont blame ya bloody cold atm. Measurements would be good, but i think i might go for a micra radiator now anyway the core seems to be slightly bigger so ill get a bit more cooling. + i have one for mockup which i can ******* up while testing haha.

I was thinking of getting a lil one of a motorbike, thinking allong the lines of a busa or R1.
I might need someone to explain how to plumb it in at some point.

[Kam]

Dont blame ya bloody cold atm

I was thinking of getting a lil one of a motorbike, thinking allong the lines of a busa or R1

Its not that its cold, its just my neighbours told me they think I'm nuts wandering around my garage working on my car at silly o'clock in the morning - they have a fair point though They should know me by now though

My rad is (H) 470mm inc the cap (W) 376mm inc the casings (D) 26mm which I think is the core only, or 45mm inc the casings

Also my rad is from an auto civic (thanks ebay!) so its got two extra outlet ports at the bottom which just get in the way, DON'T get the auto one, get the manual as I have blanked them off but they are still not flush so they still get in the way, I'm gonna be getting another rad (not sure which one yet) as some of the fins got damaged and the top hose outlet is crumbling away, so I'm gonna tear this one apart just so I can see whats inside as I've always wondered, it might be interesting to see it might not, I'm guessing the latter though

HOSES! Mine are 32mm outlets and dual core, the single cores have only 28mm outlets, I think these are the D series rads, you need a dual core at the minimum, the B series engine has 32mm outlet ports so if for some strange reason (?) you want to use a rad with 28mm outlets then you will need some reducer hoses, and some rads have a 28mm top and 32mm bottom!

Yes the civic header tank is mahoooosive so avoid it like the plague, a guy over on 16v is using one from a R1, its nice and slim and has a good shape, I was looking at the one on my CBR600 but its not got a good shape, but yeah definitely go for a bike one - plumbing it in won't be hard

If your really strapped for cash then pop down your corner shop and get yourself a small bottle of coke, empty contents and rip off the label and seal the hose in the top cap - but thats a bit pikey really

[Burnard]

Thanks for that kam.

The main thing putting me off the honda rad is the bottom hose outlet pipe. Its on the opposite side to the micra one that im planning on useing, so will be easier to clear the gear box casing on the vauxhall engine.

I see what you mean about those extra pipes, could be good if you need an oil cooler when you go turbo though.