
Rio-Tec (Aka Demoraliser) B20 And Rovers Finest Steel Wheels Equals
#361
Posted 08 December 2010 - 09:15 PM
#362
Posted 08 December 2010 - 11:14 PM
you not considered a smaller master cylender?
Smaller? Don't you mean larger?
I think standard honda is around 16mm and I'm using a 14mm for a smoother easier pedal feel (which it is) but it looks like the pedal is still travelling way too much so needs to be limited more
I could use a honda master but that will give a much harder pedal feel, this is is spot on and so easy to live with even in built up traffic in london

I think the problem is the amount of pedal travel I got, currently it moves about 4ins, someone over on 16v said they get around an inch, thats with an upgraded clutch but I still think mine is moving way too much (obviously it is!)
I'll get there

#363
Posted 09 December 2010 - 12:35 AM
#364
Posted 09 December 2010 - 09:20 AM
you not considered a smaller master cylender?
Smaller? Don't you mean larger?
I think standard honda is around 16mm and I'm using a 14mm for a smoother easier pedal feel (which it is) but it looks like the pedal is still travelling way too much so needs to be limited more
I could use a honda master but that will give a much harder pedal feel, this is is spot on and so easy to live with even in built up traffic in london![]()
I think the problem is the amount of pedal travel I got, currently it moves about 4ins, someone over on 16v said they get around an inch, thats with an upgraded clutch but I still think mine is moving way too much (obviously it is!)
I'll get there
Im pretty sure smaller is the way.
Smaller cylinder will move less fluid per inch you move the pedal, therefore moving the slave less = less travel.
Larger cylinder will move more fluid per inch of pedal travel therefore moving the slave more = more travel = more ******* clutch
Allot of the problem will be to do with the pedal ratio's between the honda and mini, not just the size of the master.
Plus if you go to a smaller cylinder the clutch gets lighter

I hope you do get it sorted, because this beast needs to be driven, not dismantled.
#365
Posted 09 December 2010 - 08:36 PM
Im pretty sure smaller is the way.
Smaller cylinder will move less fluid per inch you move the pedal, therefore moving the slave less = less travel.
Larger cylinder will move more fluid per inch of pedal travel therefore moving the slave more = more travel = more ******* clutch
Allot of the problem will be to do with the pedal ratio's between the honda and mini, not just the size of the master.
Plus if you go to a smaller cylinder the clutch gets lighter
Yeah I see what you mean now Chris, I'm still learning to be honest
Someone mentioned over on 16v that the spring more likely gave way due to aggressive spirited launches


More food for thought

#366
Posted 09 December 2010 - 08:40 PM
Love this build, hope you get the clutch sorted soon mate. And that the snow goes away so you can demoralise more people.
Cheers Evans

It'll get done but I'm not pushing myself this time, would like to maybe try and aim to get it done and take it to Brooklands in March, I think that'll be a nice deadline. Unless I feel the need to demoralise much sooner!

#367
Posted 16 December 2010 - 10:15 PM


Just a reminder again - I'm going in alot of detail here to help anyone else thats not sure or comes across this on a search, just trying to have a detailed build diary as most are "today I fitted this or fitted that and thats it" apologies if you know all this stuff already but I'm sure your mouse has a scroll down button so feel free to use as and when

Started off with sending off my two mounts

These are gonna be poly-filled as they are getting tired, I was starting to get some knocking of the inlet against the bulkhead on hard gear changes as there aint alot of clearance back there, hopefully some poly filler (???) should sort that out, this is the problem when using donor car mounts, the other rear gearbox mount is the allspeed one and still new so no point in sending that off
Managed to pick up (by luck) a set of kams


Its got the 2 grooves on the end of the shaft which only the civic type-r has

From what I understand I think the intake cam above has I think 8 degrees more duration than my standard B16a2 one, and I think the early integras have 3 degrees less than the civic ones but the later integras carried the same, so you can get any ek9 civic or 2000 onwards 'teg to get the better ones, 3 degrees might not mean much out on the road but hey every little counts

With the above I can't rev to 8600 rpm though unless I use the valvetrain aswell, I could of bought them but as I'm keeping my standard mini rev counter I decided not to and only change at 8000 rpm.....lifes a biaatch eh?

Picked up another set of energy suspension bushes for the shifter, I know I only just recently bought these but as I'm changing it it would be rude not to as these are cheap

Also picked up a skunk2 short shifter

It really is a nice bit of kit, beautifully weighted aswell, and as its only got the one kink (as opposed to my two kinks) it should sit nicely, I'm gonna try and spin it 180 degrees aswell so it sits forward, the thread height is still the same as the 'teg one, so I'll chop off the end of the mini one and weld it to this so I might be able to get it going where I want, not only will it heighten it but enable me to use the standard rover gearknob, not interested in no after market knobs it has to be rovers finest four speed jobbie!

Also got a skunk2 inlet manifold, this is by far the best inlet manifold to get on a standard engine, I think its pretty much a 1.8 inlet but with a larger chamber? This is gonna be sent off for powder coating


And got a new gasket for it

Its supposed to be a performance gasket or something and help keep the heat from the engine block heading back towards the incomming inlet air???? Not sure really? All I know is its alot thicker than the factory honda one and thats about it


The skunk2 has alot more casting around the flange area aswell

its sits close to other components but luckily this doesn't interfere with anything on the back of the block
Seems like it 'angled' more inwards aswell which will give a bit more clearance

And seems like its a tad shorter than mine with more straighter runners

Quick glance though I could see a problem as my one has a plug on (I think) the no'1 runner


But the skunk2 has the hole for the plug on no'2 which seems a little bit


which is the holder for the throttle cable, not sure if they are different on the B18's but it won't let me connect the plug at the moment


Gonna have to grind a bit out of the throttle plate bracket now which is no biggie but I thought these were meant to be plug n play? I could maybe just bend the bracket upwards a bit but not sure how much this will interfere with the cable going to the throttle body
#368
Posted 16 December 2010 - 10:15 PM

I'm not gonna be using my standard throttle body due to the size, my current inlet is around

And my standard throttle body is around

But the skunk2 inlet is around

So I'm gonna get a standard throttle body for a integra type-r

I could get a larger throttle body than the 'teg one as the inlet is made with alot of casting there so it can be machined out but this will be enough for me
Just waiting for the throttle body to arrive now, was gonna send it off to be powder coated aswell but don't feel its worth it, with it bolted on the inlet and a hose on other end you won't see much anyway
Getting there, not sure where though?

#369
Posted 16 December 2010 - 10:39 PM
I thought you said you had enough?
#370
Posted 16 December 2010 - 10:44 PM
#371
Posted 16 December 2010 - 10:45 PM

#372
Posted 16 December 2010 - 10:49 PM
Getting there, not sure where though?
You'll be far far away with all those upgrades when you realise where. Luckily you'll be able to change direction and vtec your away to your chosen direction.
I might have taken that metaphor a bit far...
Nice stuff though mate, makes me wish I could switch our front ends in the night while you're not looking

#373
Posted 16 December 2010 - 11:27 PM
id be placing bets arround 180-190
just say 200, makes it sound soooooooooo much faster

i cant imagin the wheelspin you must get, must be in every single gear?
#374
Posted 17 December 2010 - 01:46 AM
powerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
I thought you said you had enough?
Was that in your best Clarkson voice?

And I have, its just I'm gonna tackle changing the head gasket (even though it don't need doing) as I didn't fancy doing it when I first bought the engine as I didn't know my way around it but now its out I thought sod it I'll give it a crack......then thought seeing as the cams have gotta come out....then thought seeing as the inlet as gotta come off....and then thought.....well you know the rest

#375
Posted 17 December 2010 - 01:47 AM
once youve done all the inlet mods and stuff. what brake roughly is she running once you put the inlet on then?
Not sure mate, its all new to me, currently its running 165 hp which is enough but as I'm not chasing power I just bought some bits to make it more interesting, I haven't got a goal for power so won't be bothered if it makes 170, 180 or whatever
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