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My Rwd Yamaha R1 engined tarmac eater


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#211 Alburglar

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 08:35 PM

When both arches were cut away I turned my attention to where the rear valance used to be. It was a rusty mess.
I reckon the last 3 times a valance has been replaced the old one has been chopped off and the lip that is spot welded on has been left in situ. The new valances have then been spot welded in place through the previous chopped off lips.

This resulted in between 1, 2 or 3 layers of rusty metal to get rid of. The layers varied depending on the level of decay that rust had caused along the lip of the rear panel.

Workin from under neath the car I used a grinding disk to get rid of all the old layers of crust.
This pic shows the finished right half and the un-finished the left half.

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#212 Alburglar

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 08:37 PM

However in some places I must have got too close to the metal on the rear panel. This meant that the lip got too hot and the paint on the opposite side has peeled.
This has required a quick fix with direct to rust paint, which I had to hand anyway, to protect all the newly exposed metal around the car where the grinder has been previously.

I will respray the bottom lip of the new panel at some point, but it will do for now as will be hidden, at a glance, by rear bumper.

This pic also shows the little half moon reflectors I have made (by cutting a whole one in half). These are necessary because I have ordered some super clear rear lights that have no red rear reflector. These reflectors will bond to the body, flush with the bottom of the rear cluster. Have also bought the loom that converts your right hand reversing light into a fog light, so old fog lamp that was connected to rear valance can be ditched.

That’ll pass an MOT and look quite trick too!

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#213 Alburglar

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 08:38 PM

Here is the small hole in the floor I have mentioned in previous posts….

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#214 Alburglar

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 08:38 PM

…And the horrible bit of crust in the box section
Both need cutting out and a new section of steel welded in place.

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#215 Alburglar

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 08:41 PM

No big deal, but I don’t have a welder yet, so more of the same:
Getting rig of rust with grinding disk and Good Old Hammerite direct-to-rust paint to stop it getting any worse.
Car is solid though, despite these little patches.

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#216 Alburglar

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 08:42 PM

Also painted up the bits behind door rubber and any bodged work by previous owner.

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#217 Alburglar

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 08:47 PM

And here are the pics of my new 1977 fibre glass mini minus.
Pics were taken at the breakers I bought her from, but £1200, 1 long wheel base van and a 12hr round trip later. She is sat on my drive way opposite Smurfy.

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#218 Alburglar

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 08:53 PM

She came with some brand new cut down doors.

Please see my technical Query.
I need advise on best rust proofing methods? and what is the easiest way to take the doors off? because they are bare metal at the mo and outside only under a cover.

Also came with 2 boots (1 fibre one metal), 2 bonnets (the custom made one pictured and original fibre one). Can't use normal bonnets because they are too narrow.
Plus 5 wellers that need a little resto work.

I'm a very happy bunny! :grin:

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#219 Alburglar

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 09:00 PM

Here is the accident damage.
This pic is blurry but you can get the idea.

A section behind what is shown needs bonding back in place and the gel coat where front section meets the scuttle is cracked. This is due to the front impact.

Obviously the front section needs some matting and bonding.
Gel coat cracks a no problems for me either because I'm spraying whole car anyway.

Also will be preparing the shell to take the zcars kit.
This will be done over winter in me garage, and so yes, it pains me to do it, but the 250LM is going to my uncle in next couple of weeks.

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#220 Dom

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Posted 28 May 2004 - 09:42 PM

its looking really good :D its really coming together :D

#221 F1 Mini

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Posted 29 May 2004 - 09:32 PM

The Minus Looks in better condition than the other one we saw. Must be a doddle for your Uncle to fix that front end. When's the kit arriving ? And I wounder how many Grinder disc's we've been though.....

#222 Alburglar

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Posted 29 May 2004 - 10:34 PM

The Minus Looks in better condition than the other one we saw. Must be a doddle for your Uncle to fix that front end. When's the kit arriving ? And I wounder how many Grinder disc's we've been though.....

Yep, minus should be no probs to fix and to sort out for the kit.

Chris at zcars rang me a couple of days ago. They have been testing the reverse components using a 1.7horse power starter motor, which has been running for a couple of weeks with no probs.
But have decided on a 3horse power starter motor, which they are waiting for delivery. He asked if I wanted kit now or in a couple of weeks with reverse setup and tested as it's a bit of a prototype. So naturally I'm waiting for them to fit my reverse and test it.

It would be silly not to because it then all gets sent to me ready built.

#223 Alburglar

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Posted 29 May 2004 - 10:38 PM

Not bothered about waiting because still haven't got the castle nut off my turbo hubs.
Think I'm gonna need to put subframe together and suspension arms, bolt the ball joints on and jump on a torque wrench the same way I removed the nut on the mini hubs.

#224 Alburglar

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Posted 29 May 2004 - 10:41 PM

And I wounder how many Grinder disc's we've been though.....

A lot, especially on a 4.5 incher.

But silly me was buying them at £1.80 a disk from B&Q (next door to my house) until I went to my local tool store and saw packs of 25 for £10. And the cheap ones are better quality and thinner.
Doh!

#225 F1 Mini

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Posted 29 May 2004 - 10:53 PM

Is the reverse kit still £400 with the new 3HP unit ?




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