It aint right...
Started by
Bluemini
, Mar 24 2004 08:25 PM
30 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 24 March 2004 - 08:25 PM
Went to Paul Inch Engineering today so he could time my cam in properly, turned out it was ok as it was, so other than finding out that it was ok and that aint the problem, I've had a waisted day!
The only other thing we could think it might be is the dizzy doesnt have the right curve to it. The cam turns out to be an old Piper 300* rally cam that they dont make any more. So looks like im gonna have to try and sorce an Aldon dizzy and see if that is any better.
Any sugestions on what might be wrong with it??
And to top it all, couldnt take any photos because my batteries went flat!
The only other thing we could think it might be is the dizzy doesnt have the right curve to it. The cam turns out to be an old Piper 300* rally cam that they dont make any more. So looks like im gonna have to try and sorce an Aldon dizzy and see if that is any better.
Any sugestions on what might be wrong with it??
And to top it all, couldnt take any photos because my batteries went flat!
#2
Posted 24 March 2004 - 09:31 PM
Exactly whats happening?
Siggy
Siggy
#3
Posted 24 March 2004 - 09:52 PM
I have built and fitted a new A+ 1293 engine, running on an 1 3/4 carb with a Piper 300 cam. All the parts on the engine came from the engine that came out before, which was working fine apart from the bearings being warn. I have a new crank and all that gubbins, so that side of it is ok.
I can drive the car ok until i come to a hill, then it is really sluggish, 2nd gear kinda thing. Thought it was the cam that was out because if i advance the ignition timing I can make it run well and not struggle on hills, but if i switch the engine off when I've advanced it, it wont start again because its so far advanced. So I have advanced it as far as I can without having the starting troubles, but I am still getting the hill problem.
I have checked everything, even changed the dizzy. The dizzy i was using was the one off the old engine, and was fine before the swap, all i did was clean it. If i turn the dizzy drive by hand it feels lumpy and kind of clunks round, were as the one on there now turns freely. But the old one ran fine on the old engine and this engine is exactly the same spec.
The only other thing I have changed is the leads, but would that make a difference?
I have run out of ideas now!
I can drive the car ok until i come to a hill, then it is really sluggish, 2nd gear kinda thing. Thought it was the cam that was out because if i advance the ignition timing I can make it run well and not struggle on hills, but if i switch the engine off when I've advanced it, it wont start again because its so far advanced. So I have advanced it as far as I can without having the starting troubles, but I am still getting the hill problem.
I have checked everything, even changed the dizzy. The dizzy i was using was the one off the old engine, and was fine before the swap, all i did was clean it. If i turn the dizzy drive by hand it feels lumpy and kind of clunks round, were as the one on there now turns freely. But the old one ran fine on the old engine and this engine is exactly the same spec.
The only other thing I have changed is the leads, but would that make a difference?
I have run out of ideas now!
#4
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:00 PM
Its difficult to diagnos, not being able to drive but.
Has it been on a Rolling Road
If it runs fine on the flat and only sluggish on hills, check the float level, does it make any difference how much fuel is in the tank?
Brakes OK not sticking on at all?
Siggy
Has it been on a Rolling Road
If it runs fine on the flat and only sluggish on hills, check the float level, does it make any difference how much fuel is in the tank?
Brakes OK not sticking on at all?
Siggy
#5
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:04 PM
One other thing I have changed is the fuel pump, it had a Facet electric on there before too, but I changed it for a mechanical one because the ticking noise drove me mad!!
#6
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:21 PM
If thats the only change try going back to the facet pump.
Siggy
Siggy
#7
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:28 PM
I gave it away.... :nugget:
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaave!
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaave!
#8
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:29 PM
Then try another mechanical pump, they are well up to the job.
Siggy
Siggy
#9
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:33 PM
But would that affect it on hills tho?
Makes sence, but it should do it when ever its under load surely?
Makes sence, but it should do it when ever its under load surely?
#10
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:37 PM
If you are under a greater load then you will use more fuel.
Has it been set up on a rolling road?
Siggy
Has it been set up on a rolling road?
Siggy
#11
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:43 PM
Not yet.
Think you might be on to something here tho. Do you recon try another mech pump, or get another electric one?
Think you might be on to something here tho. Do you recon try another mech pump, or get another electric one?
#12
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:44 PM
And another thing which points toward timing/lean mixture is it pinks a bit when under load too.
#13
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:47 PM
You still have not said wether its been on a rolling road????
#14
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:51 PM
No I havent had it rolling roaded yet, want to try and run it in a bit first...
#15
Posted 24 March 2004 - 10:59 PM
To be blunt thats your bloody problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It will need the needle replacing.
Get enought moiles on the clock to run the engine in and then get it set up.
IF YOU CARRY OUT ANY MODIFICATION FROM STANDARD TO YOUR ENGINE THE NEEDLE WILL NEED CHANGING
At the moment I take my cars on a trailer to Spamspeed nr Bristol. 300 miles from here until I can fine someone close
Siggy
It will need the needle replacing.
Get enought moiles on the clock to run the engine in and then get it set up.
IF YOU CARRY OUT ANY MODIFICATION FROM STANDARD TO YOUR ENGINE THE NEEDLE WILL NEED CHANGING
At the moment I take my cars on a trailer to Spamspeed nr Bristol. 300 miles from here until I can fine someone close
Siggy
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