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Do I Need A New Voltage Stabilizer?


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#16 dmandan

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Posted 19 August 2020 - 08:30 AM

 

 

 

Have a close look (might need a magnifying glass) at the PCB as when the tracks crack, they can be very hard to see.

 

 

Mines a 94 cooper with 3 clocks, the pcb tracks should show resistance if they've gone right? i gotta say electrics are my kryptonite...

 

 

With your Multimeter set to Ohms, if the track is good, it will display close to zero. If the Track is open it will display as it does when the probes aren't touching anything.

 

 

yep thats how i did it, no Resistance on the pcb tracks.

 

anyone suggest what to do next?



#17 g0myw

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Posted 19 August 2020 - 09:59 AM

http://www.theminifo...howtopic=146533

I found this page a help with my mpi dash woes.....



#18 Benoit_Dupont

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Posted 19 August 2020 - 11:04 AM

No each gauge earths through its own sender, that's how they work. What they are actually measuring is electrical resistance to earth which is also why they need a very clean and constant, known voltage to supply them. Earthing the fuel gauge sender wire will test the health of the gauge as you say but if the gauge rises to full when you do this is means you need a new fuel sender unit usually. The position of the needle on the gauge will only reveal a problem in the stabiliser if you know the resistance to ground and the precise calibration of the gauge. A faulty voltage stabiliser will make the gauges inaccurate, only a completely dead supply (which can be because the stabiliser is completely broken or because there is no supply to it) will stop them working altogether.

Is it the stabiliser you can't find? It's built into the clock pod in your car, it's internal and not a discreet component. It can't really be replaced. I suspect the problem is in the PCB.

 

Yes, I second that. Vaulty stabilizers often lead to jumpy needles for instance. I had that issue on several old cars.



#19 Benoit_Dupont

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Posted 19 August 2020 - 11:05 AM

by the way i'm not sure that the MPI fuel gauge works the same as the other ones. Is it stil a resisitive thing or an active sensor ? 



#20 GraemeC

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Posted 19 August 2020 - 01:53 PM

Works exactly the same - effectively the same sender as all Minis (other than the really early ones) apart from there is an extra bend in the float arm to clear the pump gubbins



#21 Spider

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Posted 19 August 2020 - 07:13 PM

Check you have 12 volts on the Plain (dark) Green and also the plain White wires on the plug when the Key is On.

Given that Stabalisers aren't expensive, perhaps change it out and see how you go.



#22 dmandan

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Posted 26 August 2020 - 10:31 PM

Check you have 12 volts on the Plain (dark) Green and also the plain White wires on the plug when the Key is On.

Given that Stabalisers aren't expensive, perhaps change it out and see how you go.

 

So i have 12v in the white wire but nothing on the others, any of them, i checked continuity on the wire back to the fuel sender and it's fine. 

 

I tried the suggested fix of adding a solid voltage regulator, i'm very much beginner with electrics so could be user error, but that didn't solve the problem either.

 

Can anyone suggest where to go next without forking out for replacement gauges?

 

Are there any fuses affecting the fuel and temp gauge?



#23 Mark506

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 08:04 PM

I'm experiencing similar issues with my smith's fuel/temp gauge. When I first got the car the fuel gauge would read 1/4 tank when filled up, and dropped as normal from there, but now it just shows empty all the time, and the temperature gauge is permanently at the top of the gauge, my thoughts are this could mean a fault within the gauge, although that's with limited knowledge, so perhaps someone can give a a better idea?

 

Cheers



#24 Spider

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 08:56 PM

I'm experiencing similar issues with my smith's fuel/temp gauge. When I first got the car the fuel gauge would read 1/4 tank when filled up, and dropped as normal from there, but now it just shows empty all the time, and the temperature gauge is permanently at the top of the gauge, my thoughts are this could mean a fault within the gauge, although that's with limited knowledge, so perhaps someone can give a a better idea?

 

Cheers

 

Sounds to me like there's two different faults there.

 

You can work through this for the Fuel Gauge;-

 

http://www.theminifo...hs-fuel-gauges/

 

and it could be that you have the wrong sender for the Temp Gauge or the sender wire is shorted to earth.






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