23 replies to this topic

[djshongo]

Model:sprite 1275cc
Year:1993
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):petrol gauge and temp gauge dont work


Hi Guys,

My petrol gauge and temp gauge no longer work, they light up but dont move. Suddenly stopped after buying a new battery and re-furbing alternator due to starting probs.

Thinking I may need a new voltage stabilizer, as I cant find any loose/bad connections, or broken fuses.

How can I test this, or how else would I know if I need a voltage thingy?

Cheers!

Edited by djshongo, 04 November 2009 - 07:18 PM.

[bmcecosse]

Probably just a loose wire - can't see any connection with new battery etc.

[Dan]

Is this the same car that had a mechanic bodge the installation of a new alternator because he couldn't make the no-charge light work? Within the clock housing the feed to the voltage stabiliser comes from the same track as the feed to the no-charge lamp. I would imagine that the circuit has failed at that point and taken out the gauges and alternator.

[djshongo]

Is this the same car that had a mechanic bodge the installation of a new alternator because he couldn't make the no-charge light work? Within the clock housing the feed to the voltage stabiliser comes from the same track as the feed to the no-charge lamp. I would imagine that the circuit has failed at that point and taken out the gauges and alternator.

Yea same car lol.

I was looking behing my dash, and cant seem to find it.. Maybe I'm just being silly! Where should it be located on my model mini?
I'll take another look later, failing that it's going into the Auto Electrics 2moro to finally get sorted!

Cheers guys

* Was reading up on this and thought maybe the prob could be the fuel sender? The fuel gauge and temp gauge are both attached thru the earth on this circuit, right? So, if I connect the two wires on the back of my petrol tank, ignition on, and the fuel gauge goes to the top, I need a new sender unit, yea?

Edited by djshongo, 05 November 2009 - 09:59 AM.

[Dan]

No each gauge earths through its own sender, that's how they work. What they are actually measuring is electrical resistance to earth which is also why they need a very clean and constant, known voltage to supply them. Earthing the fuel gauge sender wire will test the health of the gauge as you say but if the gauge rises to full when you do this is means you need a new fuel sender unit usually. The position of the needle on the gauge will only reveal a problem in the stabiliser if you know the resistance to ground and the precise calibration of the gauge. A faulty voltage stabiliser will make the gauges inaccurate, only a completely dead supply (which can be because the stabiliser is completely broken or because there is no supply to it) will stop them working altogether.

Is it the stabiliser you can't find? It's built into the clock pod in your car, it's internal and not a discreet component. It can't really be replaced. I suspect the problem is in the PCB.

[djshongo]

No each gauge earths through its own sender, that's how they work. What they are actually measuring is electrical resistance to earth which is also why they need a very clean and constant, known voltage to supply them. Earthing the fuel gauge sender wire will test the health of the gauge as you say but if the gauge rises to full when you do this is means you need a new fuel sender unit usually. The position of the needle on the gauge will only reveal a problem in the stabiliser if you know the resistance to ground and the precise calibration of the gauge. A faulty voltage stabiliser will make the gauges inaccurate, only a completely dead supply (which can be because the stabiliser is completely broken or because there is no supply to it) will stop them working altogether.

Is it the stabiliser you can't find? It's built into the clock pod in your car, it's internal and not a discreet component. It can't really be replaced. I suspect the problem is in the PCB.

Thanks,
I'll test the two petrol tank wires now at lunchtime and see if anything moves..
Yea I couldnt find the voltage stabilizer, disconnected dash from where it was, and had a good look behind, cudnt see it. Altho I didnt take the dash apart, maybe its behind where I was looking. I thought the VS could be replaced? Ive seen them for sale for like 20quid.
As you can probably gather electrics arent my strong point lol. So, im guessing the easist way may be to leave it to the pros! Or you - fancy a job lol.
I even bought a multimeter!
Cheers

[Dan]

The stabiliser was a seperate component on earlier cars, those with a Smiths instrument panel. Yours has a later Nippon Seiki instrument panel and the stabiliser is inside, built into the bottom edge of the fuel/temperature gauge unit. It's not replaceable but can probably be repaired by an instrument specialist like Speedy Cables if it is faulty. I don't think it's that causing the problem though.

I did actually look up where you were to see if I could come and help. I have family in Derry but I'm not likely to be over there soon. For some reason I thought you were in Woking, that must have been someone else though.

[Darkscamp]

sorry to tag onto this thread but it seemed the right place at the minute.

i too am experiencing problems with my fuel sender and temp gauge. i have a smiths centre speedo and smiths temp gauge.

when i am at tick over the gauge's are ok, with the temp sender going up as per engine temp when left sitting on idle, sometimes a bit over N but i will get an electric fan for that.

when any revs are built up, thats when te problems start. as soon as i build up the revs, the fuel gauge drops to zero and it seems after driving above 4000rpm the temp goes up close to H when coming to a stop. I initially put the temp down to many issues which has caused me to get an alluminium rad, change the sender twice and put the smaller pulley on to increase the cooling at low revs but even with the cooler ambient temperatures this time of year its still doing it.

could it be the voltage stabilizer causing both problems as i have heard they can cause strange issues?

[ogden618]

Just like to add, I had engine rebiuld and after it was put back in had no fuel or temp guage reading. After a read of this section on mini forum and a close inspection in my engine bay, turned out they had pulled out a spade connection from the fuse box on the bulk head. So could be as simple as that.

[willjones444]

Hello there,
I have recently put in a new ash dashboard, i have a mini mayfair 1990, red and the 'Revs' clock doesnt work all cables are fine, but i think i might have got mixed up with the wires as there is 3 green wires, 1 for the revs clock and the other 2 for the voltage stabilizer. Does anyone know why my revs counter needle doesnt move when i start the engine. It worked before, but anyone here know why its not working? All cables are fine.
Does anyone have a photo i can go by, or ?

Also my indecators dont work on steering wheel, but work in the switch. However the fuel guage and speedo cable and clock work ok and lights.

Anyone help ??

Many thanks
Will

[dmandan]

I'm also interested in some advice on this one, my gauges suddenly stopped working after i changed the flasher relay.

 

I've had the dash apart no obvious issues on the PCB, the fuel sender has resistance so i doubt it's that at fault either which points toward the voltage stabilizer.

 

Can anyone suggest how to test this out? and possible solution?

[Spider]

I'm also interested in some advice on this one, my gauges suddenly stopped working after i changed the flasher relay.

 

I've had the dash apart no obvious issues on the PCB, the fuel sender has resistance so i doubt it's that at fault either which points toward the voltage stabilizer.

 

Can anyone suggest how to test this out? and possible solution?

 

Depending on what type of Stabaliser you have, they can be easy to test or difficult.

 

The original types were a vibrating reed type of regulator that gave an average output voltage of 10 volts. Using an ordinary multimeter to measure the output from them will only show jibberish, but, generally, if you are seeing jibberish, then it is working, though may not be 10 volts. Ideally, you need a Thermal Volt Meter to check these properly, like a Smiths Voltmeter.

 

The solid state types (which I'm not sure were ever standard fitting ?) can be measured with an ordinary multimeter.

 

Have a close look (might need a magnifying glass) at the PCB as when the tracks crack, they can be very hard to see.

[dmandan]

 

I'm also interested in some advice on this one, my gauges suddenly stopped working after i changed the flasher relay.

 

I've had the dash apart no obvious issues on the PCB, the fuel sender has resistance so i doubt it's that at fault either which points toward the voltage stabilizer.

 

Can anyone suggest how to test this out? and possible solution?

 

Depending on what type of Stabaliser you have, they can be easy to test or difficult.

 

The original types were a vibrating reed type of regulator that gave an average output voltage of 10 volts. Using an ordinary multimeter to measure the output from them will only show jibberish, but, generally, if you are seeing jibberish, then it is working, though may not be 10 volts. Ideally, you need a Thermal Volt Meter to check these properly, like a Smiths Voltmeter.

 

The solid state types (which I'm not sure were ever standard fitting ?) can be measured with an ordinary multimeter.

 

Have a close look (might need a magnifying glass) at the PCB as when the tracks crack, they can be very hard to see.

 

 

Mines a 94 cooper with 3 clocks, the pcb tracks should show resistance if they've gone right? i gotta say electrics are my kryptonite...

[GraemeC]

The PCB tracks would show open circuit if they'd gone

[Spider]

 

 

Have a close look (might need a magnifying glass) at the PCB as when the tracks crack, they can be very hard to see.

 

 

Mines a 94 cooper with 3 clocks, the pcb tracks should show resistance if they've gone right? i gotta say electrics are my kryptonite...

 

 

With your Multimeter set to Ohms, if the track is good, it will display close to zero. If the Track is open it will display as it does when the probes aren't touching anything.