128 replies to this topic

[Shadyfox]

I have Anti Roll bars front and back but currently cant find poundage information on them.

Is the front anti-roll bar a Z-Cars optional extra?

Unsure Pete, the lugs/brackets to mount mine were incorporated into the fame. I am sure you could get some mounts made to fit a frame without mounting lugs/brackets. As Chris A at Z's will tell you - anything is possible, you just have to pay for it........


heres what pictures I can find of mine that might help if anyone wanted to see how they fit to the car or are considering fabricating their own:


Great photos I didn't realize how thick they are I have all the mounts for the rear in place, looks like I don't have the front mounts for the clamps I'll upload some photos as soon as I work out how to do it I think I have a wider rad!




You'll have to save as locally and then zoom in to view this front mount.







My new mounts for the drop links





Rears

[cptkirk]

A word of advice if your thinking of fabbing your own, the end where the adjustable ARB sprung steel fits in really needs a bolt coming at it from the side also to stop it from turning on its own, I recently snapped a bolt whilst cornering because the sprung steel had turned though 90degs and was effectively just a solid bar between the two sides of suspension.

Crappy detail to show what I mean:

[Shadyfox]

A word of advice if your thinking of fabbing your own, the end where the adjustable ARB sprung steel fits in really needs a bolt coming at it from the side also to stop it from turning on its own, I recently snapped a bolt whilst cornering because the sprung steel had turned though 90degs and was effectively just a solid bar between the two sides of suspension.

Crappy detail to show what I mean:

Andy

If you mean me no way will buy from Zcars dont have the tools or anyone in this part of Spain who could fab them, the pics are a great help I will post the progress and final results when they are fitted and tested...

[Shadyfox]

I dont have mine machined yet but the photo below is something like what I am aiming towards for my fix, although moving the steering rack is the best way to combat bump steer it might not be possible for some to do.

As I said in my build diary I am going to use a 1/2" UNF turnbuckle with RH&LH threads (like the one attached to the rose joint in the below picture, I already bought the taps and the 3/4" hex bar to make this), LH thread 1/2" Rose joints.

I think the major difference between the picture below and mine is that I am thinking of tapping 1/2"UNF into the bottom half of the spacer (made from the same 3/4" hex bar) and then taper the top end and thread the spacer (3/8"UNF), similar to the current track rod end. Or I might ream out the steering arm and whack a high tensile 1/2"UNF bolt all the way through the lot, still undecided.......

I am hoping to get the machining done this week/weekend, after which I will post up some pictures and might even do some drawings for people to copy if they want.

Anyhooo, here is a picture I have stolen/borrowed from the 16Vminiclub site:

do you happen to have a link where I can get these i really could do with a set?

[alowry]

Check the ebay links half way down this page:- http://www.theminifo...037-bump-steer/ Should be what you're looking for.

[Shadyfox]

Check the ebay links half way down this page:- http://www.theminifo...037-bump-steer/ Should be what you're looking for.

thanks for the links

[cptkirk]

As I said in the the other page that the above post links to make sure you are using Cooper S steering arms as the difference between std and Cooper S is significant. Also dont forget a locking nut to go against the rose joint.

In an ideal world you should have a linear amount no less that 1,5 times the diameter of the rod inserted into the rose joint.

Good luck with it and I am sure people would like the see the end result if you get time to take some pictures.

[Pete649]

the settings we now use after tweeking for several years are as follows
front half a degree negative camber each side
toe 1 mm each side
caster 3.5 degrees
rear 1.5 degrees negative camber
1.5 mm toe in each side

Are these settings for use with a tubular front subframe and if so are they still up to date?

Thanks.

[al_reidy]

does anyone else experience the back end feeling loose when coming off power at high rpm?

[cptkirk]

I know I've said it before but YES I DO.......


Anyone else other than Al and myself??

[al_reidy]

I know I've said it before but YES I DO.......


Anyone else other than Al and myself??

its quite quiet on the zcars forum here at the moment so I'm guessing people are not going to be getting back to us any time soon...
i do wonder if our atom quaife diff is to blame....

we can't be alone, i wonder if zcars know a solution?

Edited by al_reidy, 09 May 2012 - 06:13 PM.

[Robnut]

I have also said yes before. I was hoping you guys would have the solution. I have bought a new rack and was going to fit that.

[al_reidy]

the new rack defiantly helps the car if you have a 2nd hand worn one....
but not helping the loose on lift off feeling is still there. has anyone contact zcars about this? i don't think they look at the forum anymore.

Edited by al_reidy, 09 May 2012 - 09:27 PM.

[cptkirk]

I am going to try a few more notches on the Protech shocks to stiffen them up a bit so the weight shift from front to rear (as you lift off suddenly) doesnt cause as much movement in the suspension.

[Mini Type R]

does anyone else experience the back end feeling loose when coming off power at high rpm?

I do too, I'm going to change the steering arms and track rod ends next week to see if that improves it.

I asked Z-Cars about it a while ago and got this response:

try six clicks from zero on all four shocks
zero being fully anticlockwise till you reach the stop
check the steering racks tight on the subframe or bulkhead depending which you have
also have you got a good stiff steering column on it
if the column can flex around it makes the car feel queer