23 replies to this topic

[mini670]

Hi,

I removed all that black stuff completely, unsure wether to replace it or not yet, might have to put extra underlay down to deaden the sound when driving. On my mini there was bucket loads of water under the black stuff, which lead to plenty of rot in the front foot wells. It cracked because some numpty placed the jack under the floor pan in the past.

Regarding the box sections, i dont really about them myself, as i have them to do also. But i have bought a couple of cans of Dynax S50 by BiltHamber. That stuff sounds quite good.

[Sherlock]

OK so I'll start my brief guide to Waxoyling box sections. Starting from the front with a few photos which will hopefully make things clearer.
In the bottom of the front panel, you will see the 2 access holes for the front frame mounting bolts. Behind these holes are small box sections which can cause corrosion of the front panel due to water sitting in them. Waxoyl can easily be sprayed in through the hole
 Wax_09.JPG   46.95K   102 downloads
Arrow shows the back of this box section. Couldn't photograph the holes, foglamps in way!

Although not structural, I always spray behind the stiffeners under the bonnet, as they are prone to rusting in the corners.
 Wax_10.JPG   29.29K   35 downloads
There are plenty of holes to spray through, likewise the boot where the most important part is the lower edge, accessible along the edge of the stiffener.

Next & very important are the 2 boxed ends of the front scuttle, the box sections only extend outwards of the inner wing & are accesses through a gap between scuttle & top of inner wing, the photo shows a piece of tube pushed in where your waxoyl probe would need to be.
 Wax_02.JPG   31.9K   88 downloads
About a 10 second spray moving the probe around will be plenty in here.

The forward door pillars, or 'A'- posts. There is plenty of access inside these via the hole for the door restraining linkage. however this car has been drilled for the purpose. A good idea to use probe up screen pillar as well.
 Wax_03.JPG   26.37K   70 downloads
Arrows show drilled hole with grommet & access point via door restrain link. Push the waxoyl probe as far as it will go, then operate trigger, taking about 10 seconds to pull it back out. carry this out up the screen pillar & down the door pillar.

The all important sill sections, this car has purpose drilled & grommeted holes for waxing, but if using standard sills I see no reason why you can't push the probe along the sills via the drain vents. From the forward hole, push the probe up to the bottom of the door pillar, operate trigger & spray while pulling the probe back out. 10-15 seconds spray. Then insert probe the other way to the jacking point, pull back out while spraying for about 5-10 secs. Repeat this working forward from the rear hole to the jacking point.
 Wax_07.JPG   21.36K   59 downloads
Pushing the probe rearwards from the rear hole will get along the box section in the rear side bins up to the rear subframe front bolts. Be very generous in there, spraying for around 15 seconds while pulling the probe back.
While in this area, if you lift the seats you will see 2 holes in the back of the seat mounting cross member. The outer areas are the most important, using the probe through these holes give a few seconds of spray in all directions.
The inside of the doors can be done in several ways, you can remove the door cards & spray through holes in the inner door panel, using the probe through the drain holes, or via pre-drilled holes as shown here.
 Wax_06.JPG   15.37K   18 downloads
be prepared for some waxoil running from the drain holes.

The rear quarter panels can be sprayed conventionally by removing the the card from inside, make sure the area where the quarter panel joins the wheel arch is well treated.
 Wax_04.JPG   24.47K   27 downloads
You can also drill the B-post & use the probe, but you may not be sure of treating the wheel arch joint thoroughly.

Moving on to the back, the important thing about the boot floor is the seams where the wheel arches join the rear quarter panel, the corners beneath the rear lights, the boot hinge panel join & the stiffeners where the rearmost subframe bolts attach. To get to the left side of the boot, it's best to slacken the fuel tank strap & ease the tank out a few inches.
The only real box sections at the back are the corners of the rear valance. From around 1980, the corners of the valance were drilled for rear fog light fitment.
 Wax_05.JPG   21.07K   24 downloads
There is a grommet provided, for twin rear fog fitment wires, but UK cars only had one, so you can remove this grommet & use the probe to spray in the corner box, on the other side, I find the probe will push through the grommet alongside the wires. About a 5-10 sec spray, moving the probe around.

Underneath, make sure your rear subframe side channels & heel board area are clean, give these areas a good soaking in waxoyl along with your rear wheel arches, floorpan joints, toe-board, inner wings, A panel & outer wing joints, particularly as mentioned before, around the headlamps.
No doubt there will be things to add to this, I'm sure many other members have their favourite ways of protecting against rust, the more the better, Cheers, I'm going to have a drink!

[Shifty]

Thats a great guide Sherlock

If a mods reading this I reckon that needs pinning or sticking in the FaQs as well.

[Sherlock]

Thanks, Shifty, coming from someone who knows the Mini bodyshell as well as you, that's a real compliment.

[Shifty]

Thanks, Shifty, coming from someone who knows the Mini bodyshell as well as you, that's a real compliment.

Aw, shucks I love you too man!!!!

[tomdale86]

sherlock you're a legend!

[Sherlock]

Thanks for your kind words, Tom. I hope the information will help you. I seem to remember it all starting with those immortal words; "Just a quickie about box sections". Lol!
All the best,
Sherlock.

[mini670]

Thats a top drawer guide mate . Im going to save that for reference in the future. Thanks.

[minimuk]

cheers sherlock all good with your waxoiling guide