rosco454- havent any clearance problems atm the moment, the car has been on axle stands for the last year, although i dont plan on running it slammedit'll be low enought to catch the exhaust on speed bumps, especially if there is a heavy person in the car
liirge- thanks for the link, i couldnt find anything before i started this topic i really did look
thanks guys
Internal Gear Linkage
Started by
Jack Jones
, Oct 23 2009 04:39 PM
17 replies to this topic
#17
newdawn1st
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- Members
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- 1,268 posts
One Carb Or Two?
- Local Club: Fylde Mini Club
#18
Prawn
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- Members
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- 938 posts
One Carb Or Two?
- Local Club: Basingstoke Mini Club
Posted 26 October 2009 - 02:42 PM
I've got the KAD internal linkage kit on mine. I did look into making my own setup, and even bought the UJ's, but in the end went for the KAD setup.
To make your own, you'd need to have the shift rod cut with a standard thread one end, and a reverse thread on the other end. you'd also need the UJ's threaded accordingly to make it properly adjustable.
My engine is not solid mounted, and I've not had any problems so far.
I've got standard genuine rover engine mounts, then a poly bushed ultimate engine steady, poly bushes on the standard steady above the clutch, and the lower front gearbox steady near the sump plug, as well as a minispares lower left hand gearbox steady going backwards to the subframe, also poly bushed.
the engine is producing 120bhp and 100lbft, and it's not once jumped out of gear, despite a few trackdays, and the trip to the ring and back in september.
]
Cutting the hole is a complete *illegitimate person* though, it took me about 6 hours in total to get the hole perfect, but that's because I wanted it EXACTLY right. I started by threading a string through the selector on the gearbox, then up through the original gear stick hole and onto the selector inside the car, that gave me the centre line. the rest was done by careful measurements, and started with a 2mm hole.
I then threaded a string through the two ends via the hole and looked at the deflection in the string to get and idea which way the hole needed enlarging. I did it in TINY steps until I could get the rod through, then enlarged it accordingly to allow it to select all gears.
I've not had any water come up through the hole yet either
To make your own, you'd need to have the shift rod cut with a standard thread one end, and a reverse thread on the other end. you'd also need the UJ's threaded accordingly to make it properly adjustable.
My engine is not solid mounted, and I've not had any problems so far.
I've got standard genuine rover engine mounts, then a poly bushed ultimate engine steady, poly bushes on the standard steady above the clutch, and the lower front gearbox steady near the sump plug, as well as a minispares lower left hand gearbox steady going backwards to the subframe, also poly bushed.
the engine is producing 120bhp and 100lbft, and it's not once jumped out of gear, despite a few trackdays, and the trip to the ring and back in september.
]
Cutting the hole is a complete *illegitimate person* though, it took me about 6 hours in total to get the hole perfect, but that's because I wanted it EXACTLY right. I started by threading a string through the selector on the gearbox, then up through the original gear stick hole and onto the selector inside the car, that gave me the centre line. the rest was done by careful measurements, and started with a 2mm hole.
I then threaded a string through the two ends via the hole and looked at the deflection in the string to get and idea which way the hole needed enlarging. I did it in TINY steps until I could get the rod through, then enlarged it accordingly to allow it to select all gears.
I've not had any water come up through the hole yet either
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