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Painting Wheel Hubs And Drive Shafts


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#1 daemonchild

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Posted 15 October 2009 - 09:46 PM

A quick one I hope.
I want to clean off and paint these:

Posted Image

For the hubs and wheel flanges I intend to remove and clean all greasy parts (wheel bearings, the grease nipples and lock rings).
I also want to do the main shaft of the drive shafts if you see what I mean.
I'll mask off the actual splined parts on each piece.

But will Hammerite normal metal paint be ok? Presumably there is quite a bit of friction heat build up in there?
Do I need to use caliper paint?

Thank you. :D

#2 Ethel

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Posted 15 October 2009 - 11:56 PM

a quick google says the standard stuff is good for 80 degrees C.

#3 daemonchild

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 05:24 AM

a quick google says the standard stuff is good for 80 degrees C.


Yep, sorry I found that but forgot to put that when writing.
Makes me look dumber than I am!! :D

I guess temps won't go near there then? I should hope not unless something is seriously awry!

(Edit: I also forgot to say "thank you" Ethel..)

Edited by daemonchild, 16 October 2009 - 05:25 AM.


#4 Boycie

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 07:04 AM

I've noticed that my local Helfrauds is now supplying Hammerite with a Satin finish.

This has pleased me (doesn't take much) because the one thing I hate about conventional Hammerite is the mega-high gloss finish. It just doesn't look right on things like car underbodies or suspension parts.

If the satin finish (available in spray or brush-on) is as strong as the original stuff, I'm going to give it a try- much more factory style paint finish.

#5 daemonchild

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 09:25 AM

I've noticed that my local Helfrauds is now supplying Hammerite with a Satin finish.

This has pleased me (doesn't take much) because the one thing I hate about conventional Hammerite is the mega-high gloss finish. It just doesn't look right on things like car underbodies or suspension parts.

If the satin finish (available in spray or brush-on) is as strong as the original stuff, I'm going to give it a try- much more factory style paint finish.


Oooh. Nice.

#6 akaflash

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 03:03 PM

I've noticed that my local Helfrauds is now supplying Hammerite with a Satin finish.

This has pleased me (doesn't take much) because the one thing I hate about conventional Hammerite is the mega-high gloss finish. It just doesn't look right on things like car underbodies or suspension parts.

If the satin finish (available in spray or brush-on) is as strong as the original stuff, I'm going to give it a try- much more factory style paint finish.


Oooh. Nice.

just done all mine but i blasted mine then used pj1 engine and case paint, sprays well cant go wrong with it and looks spot on

#7 kalkat

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 06:25 PM

My car uses Smoothrite extensively.........

Emma

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Edited by kalkat, 16 October 2009 - 06:26 PM.


#8 Pauly

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 06:42 PM

Just dont paint your drive flanges, the wheels just rips it off. I learnt the hard way :D.

Paul.

#9 kalkat

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 06:46 PM

Ah yes - I should have said ...... DON'T paint any of the mating surfaces :D That includes the wheel mounting face. If you look in my piccies, you can just see what I mean

Emma

#10 1984mini25

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 07:10 PM

I’ve pretty much painted everything (engine, subfames, brakes, suspension, floors etc) but the exterior panels on the 25 with hammerite, Lol

And I’ve been doing the same with the 89 project; this is the front stubby I painted in hammerite and brush (no expense spared Lol) the summer before last.

Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by 1984mini25, 16 October 2009 - 07:20 PM.


#11 1984mini25

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 07:30 PM

Although if you want any finish to last, your best off scraping and wire brushing most of the muck off by hand. Remove the bearings from the hubs, and if you intend on reusing them cable tie them up so the inners and outers stay as a matched pair/s.
Then with a selection of wire brushes and a drill combo attack the rusty bits, a quick degrease and brush off and it’s good to go with the paint.

#12 daemonchild

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 07:43 PM

Thanks guys... Some super photos there. Wish I'd had the last one when I was first doing ball joints and CV boots a while back.
Very instructive. :D I'm saving it if I may?

I've been cutting back the rust using a wire brush on a drill:

Posted Image

Getting good results (pre paint):

Posted Image

#13 miniman_7

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 08:00 PM

I did the subframe on my last mini in hammerite. Never saw a blink of rust in over 8 years since.

Have to say, I've used the satin finish stuf before and found it thinner and needing a few coats to get full black cover. Maybe I had a dodgy tin??

Oh yeah and they do it at B&Q..... cheaper there than hellfrauds.

#14 1984mini25

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 08:14 PM

I’ve generally found the black (never seams to be any of the other colours), to be a bit watery and takes a few coats to get good even coverage.

#15 Sherlock

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 11:25 PM

The main reason for needing caliper paint is because it's resistant to brake fluid rather than any temperature issue. I always paint hubs with hammerite, heat is no problem, in fact my silencer is also painted with it & it's fine. I just give drive flanges a light coat of wheel silver or similar.




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