315 replies to this topic

[Dick Dastardly]

Dale,

thanks for the response. Yes, I'm gonna be at Avon this year pending any major disasters- I'm using it as a deadline which I believe it's important to have (taken me 18months so far!).

Regarding the oil gallery bolt: Your oil gallery bolt is in the correct place according to the Haynes R1 manual! Mine isn't there!! I obviously have an earlier/later cylinder head as the area where your bolt is has been blanked off in the casting on my cylinder head. You can follow the gallery round the front of the engine above the exhaust outlets- it's the raised rib-like feature, then as it gets to the far right hand side of the cylinder head- that's where my blanking plug is. Thing is the one on my engine looks smaller than the ones mounted on the left hand side of the head like yours. Suppose I'm just going to have to remove the bolt and try some known bolts in the thread as a trial and error method to finding the size. Thanks for the info though, as I reckon a good starting point will be the same size as yours- just in case there was some rational thinking in the Yamaha engine department.

Bye for now
D.D.

[R1minimagic]

Yours could be similar to Ades and Petes then. Mine is a 1998 engine, so yours is most likely a later model. David (R1mini), where is the plug on yours???

If it is smaller than M6, it could explain why Ade and Pete have had problems with the threads going on them and subsequent loss of oil!! David said that it is a common problem with the R1, but mine has been absolutely fine for the last 2 years, so not expecting any problems. Might be best to drill out the centre of the oil cooler and put a sensor in there instead???

Have you got any pics of your driveshaft angles?? What height is your back sill lip off the floor??

Cheers
Dale

[pete]

If it's the newer engine then should be 6mm bolt. This is where we had adapters made but they kept snapping. Not enough metal left after drilling a hole in the middle of it. Easiest way would be get it drilled out to 10mm and then it will be strong enough to take a standard adapter.
On the injection engine that pipe goes up to the choke unit mounted under the throttle bodies. Another short pipe then comes out the other side and into the block. Don't know whether your running inj or carb???

[Dick Dastardly]

Thanks for all the help guys.

You were right- it's an M6 bore in the cylinder head.

I'm planning on running a short capillary hose to the sender unit so that the fixing at the cylinder head isn't unduly stressed by the direct weight of the sender. I have an adequate amount of braided hose left over from the rear brake line installation, so the plan is to buy an M6 male, and M10x1 connector for the hose.

I think I now have a leak-free cooling system having just replaced the O-ring that seals the cylinder head outlet pipe, so all in all (apart from the oil pressure gauge sender) I'm now happy with the engine side of things.

I'm up near York at the weekend co-driving for a friend, so unfortunately won't be able to progress much further, but I'm confident that now it's getting lighter in the evenings and warmer to boot, it won't be long before I'm strapping myself in, and taking my first tentative steps towards mini heaven! Can't wait!!

Cheers!
D.D

[markrally]

Dean, what car are you navigating in???
What event?

[Dick Dastardly]

Dale,

sorry, I forgot to answer your questions.

It seems I'm up to my limit on the number of photo's I can upload, but I can tell you that the height of the side sill seam just before the rear wheel arch is 203mm. Please bear in mind that I havn't driven the car yet, and it still isn't at it's full weight yet as there are a few minor things to go on/in- like doors, seats, glazing etc! As a result I fully expect to have to raise the suspension to some extent once it has settled, but having said that I will only raise it to get the ride height back to something like it is now.

Hope this helps.

Out of interest, what does your car measure at this point?

All the best
D.D.




Mark,

I'll be in an Escort Cosworth. The event is called the lookout stages rally, and is being held at Melbourne airfield near York. It's being hosted by Trackrod motor club. We should do quite well as long as my friend gets to grips with the sequential box this time! Last time he pushed instead pulled, and it all ended rather expensively!!!

Bye for now.
D.D.

[markrally]

Nice one mate, should be a fast run for you!!!

I just found this, the only picture of my old scooby on my last event in july of last year.



cheers

[Dick Dastardly]

Problem!

Can't just buy an M6 connector can I? Oh no, I'll either have to make an adaptor, or start drilling and tapping.

Drilling and tapping sounds like it will involve swarf, which I don't really fancy in the oil galleries. Also, I havn't got spuds large enough to start drilling my engine block, so I'll be mainly making an adaptor!

Ade/Pete, who made yours for you? If i can buy one rather than get my hands dirty that would be preferable

Bye for now
D.D.

[dean_chad]

we have a company called pirtek who fabricate fittings for as on our machines. you could maybe try them. our machines have spurios sized so they have had to make lots of different types like japenese metric (flat face metric)!

i have a guy who lives oposite me who works for pirtek i could ask him if it helps?

[R1minimagic]

I got my dad to make mine, he has a full engineering workshop!!

Always comes in handy!!

[pete]

Ade/Pete, who made yours for you? If i can buy one rather than get my hands dirty that would be preferable

Local engineering company I know. They made us various different ones but they all failed after a short while. Not nice having most of your oil empty itself and the first you know is when it hits the manifold and starts smoking heavily. :'(
We didn't try attaching a hose to reduce the weight on it but I did fit a bracket so that the sender unit was suspended with no weight on the adapter unit. Still failed. I would remove the bolt in the oil cooler and get it drilled and tapped as Dale suggested. Add a piece of hose to this to miss the exhaust and it should work.

We've both decided to run without a working pressure gauge rather than risk blowing the oil out again.

Pete

[markrally]

Well here are the latest pictures of the buzz wagon, courtesy of Mr Dasturdley!!!






That carbon can looks real nice, is that a noise reducer you stick in the can pictured above??

Cheers

[miniboo]

that looks so good

love the colour

[Dick Dastardly]

Thanks Mark! Lord only knows how you managed that.

Yes, that welded tubular contraption is indeed a dB killer, and it definitely works too, although I'm not sure it'll work enough for some track days. We'll see.....

So far I've spent £20 on petrol and the car hasn't moved an inch! It'll use 5 litres of juice just on tick-over before the water temp gets up to 85 degrees. I think I may need to tinker with the carbs....

I think the carbon can sounds rather nice- very deep. In fact at tick over and from the rear it's more of a feeling than sound!

D.D.

Cheers miniboo!

[R1minimagic]

5 litres, WOW!!! Mine only uses that much for 15 minutes on the track!!! Sure you dont have any leaks???