where can i get a new one to re-stamp the number

mini gti
#31
Posted 30 December 2005 - 12:47 AM
where can i get a new one to re-stamp the number
#32
Posted 30 December 2005 - 12:48 AM
#33
Posted 30 December 2005 - 01:10 AM
good project by the way
wayne
#34
Posted 17 January 2006 - 10:56 AM
because the diff is one piece with the gear box, and the drive shafts come out almost in line with the back edge of the engine so i thought lock off the steering, and hay presto we have mid engine rear wheel drive light car, with the weight of the engine providing loads of traction!

BUT I CANT DECIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!

#35
Posted 17 January 2006 - 11:06 AM
imho a rear drive would be better for the road and track and loads more fun lol
keep up the good work mate
#36
Posted 17 January 2006 - 11:35 AM
I don't know of many, if not any, Vtec conversions that are RWD, apart from Z Cars rear engined Vtec, which is on 14/15s??? Besides, getting power to the tarmac isn't that much of a problem is you know how to control the throttle, theres plenty of FWD minis on small wheels <12" running upwards of 150bhp!i think that the vtec boys are having trouble actually putting the power down to the rear wheels with theire front engine conversions as there is too much power for the small wheels.
#37
Posted 17 January 2006 - 11:40 AM
#38
Posted 17 January 2006 - 11:40 AM
#39
Posted 18 January 2006 - 10:30 PM
but most of the near side is sanded down, and same situation with the roof, the complete off-side rear quarter was all sanded and primed, along with the rear panel, but now the that all has to be replaced thanks to my mum, and her dagenam dustbin.
will post some pics tomorrow
gaz
#40
Posted 23 January 2006 - 09:15 PM
Attached Files
#41
Posted 23 January 2006 - 09:16 PM
Attached Files
#42
Posted 24 January 2006 - 02:29 PM
#43
Posted 24 January 2006 - 07:10 PM
hot air gun and 1" fairly sharp stiff scraper to get rid of the worst of the paint,
do this by heating the pant till it just stars to bubble up then run the scrapper along behind the air gut as you move along at a constant pace applying reason able pressure
then nitromorse to remove final little bits of remaining primer and odd bit of paint, and finaly 120 ally oxide sand paper (hand and obitol power sander)
then when it comes to spraying it i'm going 800 wet and dry the whole shell before rust treatment of some sort and then then coats of primeer and many coats of the final colour then possibly some pinstriping and detailing
also this may not be known to many people but if you use a hot air gun on MOST body filler it breaks the bond that it has with the metal and practically peals off!!!!! with a little nudge from a scraper
gaz
#44
Posted 24 January 2006 - 07:52 PM
#45
Posted 24 January 2006 - 08:32 PM
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