Jump to content


Photo

What To Temporarily Lay Over Etch Primer?


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Cactus

Cactus

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 74 posts

Posted 24 September 2009 - 01:48 PM

So I'm about at the part where I'll be looking at taking parts of the shell back to bare metal. What I've been planning to do is go Bare Metal > Upol Acid Etch 8 primer > then some grey primer followed by regular paint, right? I'll be doing a panel at a time approach, so it needs to be relativley quick and simple to protect my panels after taking them back to bare metal. This means i can't rely on a compressor and such for spraying untill i'll applying layers of paint onto the whole shell.

Well I'm having trouble with the last two steps. From what I've read there is no such thing as a non-absorbant primer. So I need a decent quality primer in a rattle can for this.
I was thinking about Frosts own primer for this http://www.frost.co....o...=&subCatID= But was unsure just how good it is, also its acrylic which might be a problem when covering with celly? I'm not sure.
EDIT: I just remembered I was going to use Upol (again) Hi-Build primer, would this be suitable for the whole car, or is it just for specific spots?

And with the temporary top coat, I'll be spraying with cellulose when it comes to doing the whole shell in almond green. So will that limit which cans i can use for the temporary top coat, incase i get a reaction? Would the colour i choose matter? Since it would just be a thin coat for protection I'd imagine alot of it would get rubbed back when it comes to laying the proper topcoats.


I'm really trying to do this the proper way, I've ordered some Upol etch primer and I've got some weld-thru for the plug welds. Its just since i'll be doing this over winter (in the garage) i'm not sure about leaving it in primer without a topcoat.

And I know alot of people are going to tell me "just pop down your local motorfactors..." but there just is not one nearby and i don't trust the stuff from the local boy racer shops as i bought some no-name primer from them before only to find all the nozzles broke after about the 3rd press. I really need a link to somewhere online for a decent brand of something i can trust.

One product i did get linked to at one point was this: http://www.decoratin...od/s/SIRRUSTPS/ Which appears to be primer and topcoat in 1? Though its on a home decorating website, so I'm not sure how keen I'd be on using it on a mini.

Anyway, I'm probably in more of a muddle than i need to be with all of this, so if anyone can help me out it'd be dandy :wub:

Edited by Cactus, 24 September 2009 - 01:53 PM.


#2 midridge2

midridge2

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,794 posts
  • Location: north east england

Posted 24 September 2009 - 02:14 PM

john davies is a big paint supplier near you.
look up epoxy primer on the net as this may be better suited to what you need.

#3 panelbeaterpeter

panelbeaterpeter

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,606 posts
  • Location: Scotland
  • Local Club: n/a

Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:04 PM

You can get an anti corrosive primer, made by ICI which is non porous. Otherwise the only other real option would be topcoat, but direct gloss, not basecoat as that's porous too.

#4 Cactus

Cactus

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 74 posts

Posted 24 September 2009 - 08:30 PM

The only thing like anti corrosive primer i could find by ICI was hammerites anti-rust. Does "anti corrosive primer" mean it wouldn't be porous? As upols etch primer is non corrosive. Which doesn't make sense to me as i thought with etch primer you should still be able to see the metal underneath? Epoxy primer doesn't appear to be availible in a spray can either.

Maybe I'd be ok if I just went Upol etch > Upol grey primer > random green topcoat, then sand back the topcoat to primer when i'm ready for the real topcoat to go on?

EDIT: found out paints4u have a nice selection of etch/hibuild/grey primer, I should be able to get what i need from them, bar the topcoat. From what I've read 1k primer can be used with a celly topcoat, so that should be ok. Just need to find a topcoat now :lol: Apparantly paints4u also do any colour in an aerosol, but at £10 per 400ml it seems pricey.

cheers for the help guys

Edited by Cactus, 24 September 2009 - 08:40 PM.


#5 panelbeaterpeter

panelbeaterpeter

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,606 posts
  • Location: Scotland
  • Local Club: n/a

Posted 24 September 2009 - 09:38 PM

I'll try and find out exactly what the primer is, it's anti corrosive, not the same as etch, although I believe it etches at the same time as priming. You're right in that etch should be applied very thinly, but this stuff is different, I use it for priming vehicles that have been sandblasted, just to protect the metal until any further work can be carried out.

#6 cookie4343

cookie4343

    **Caution: Do Not Feed Alcohol**

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,257 posts
  • Local Club: CV1 Mini's

Posted 24 September 2009 - 09:54 PM

Can zinc 182 be used to protect the bare metal, is this self etching i no i can stick it though a gun but will it be ok to cover a whole car with.

#7 JustGo4It_

JustGo4It_

    Passed Test

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts

Posted 18 October 2009 - 07:01 PM

Strip the panel bare. If you are not going to do the body work right away give it a light coat of etch primer and let it sit. If you are going to do the body work right away then apply filler, etch prime on bare metal, let it flash off and then apply a couple coats of 2 part primer. These areas won't rust your car is in doors. I have a car sitting in etch only and it hasn't started to rust. If you want to strip the whole car and just apply etch primer on the shell you can then go back after and finish the filler work. You will just need to sand back the areas you need to do the filler work on. Before you prime the panel with primer you will need to scuff the old etch primer with a scuff pand, use degreaser and then prime. Don't use etch primer and epoxy primer. They don't mix.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users