19 replies to this topic

[Cragsterboy]

Model: Rover Mini
Year: 1991
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):

My mini keeps shearing the split pin on the left front wheel resulting in the castellated nut coming loose and me losing drive! It recently had a new wheel bearing and a new tapper split washer. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Thanks,

~Crag

[Sprocket]

Tighten the nut to 180lbft and then to the next hole for the split pin, you shouldnt have a problem. Also use decent quality split pins. Make sure you tightwn the nut fully first without the taper washer, and using a big flat washer instead. this will seat the beaing races. Then remove the flat washer and refit the taper washer and tighten finaly to the 180lbft.

This is all assuming the parts are in good servicable order

[Danny_California]

I also have this problem at the moment, but the split pin has yet to shear off. Can you explain the bearing seating procedure in more depth please? As I want to make sure it's all done properly and what not! What size washer? Wider than the tapered washer?

[Retro_10s]

The washer needs to be wider than the tapered washer or it would maul the surface the conical washer grips. You will see on the drive flange that around the edge of the area the conical washer sits in has been machined flat. This is what the washer needs to sit on.

Obviously the washer needs to have a hole large enough to fit over the driveshaft end.

Torque the hub up to the required tightness using the flat washer instead of the conical one, then take the nut back off being very careful not to disturb the hub assembly, remove the flat washer, refit the conical washer, bring the Castle nut up to torque and then Tighten it to the next hole.... put the split pin in and you're done.

[bmcecosse]

Nevr ever used this 'bearing seating procedure' - what a laugh!
Just spin the bearing as you tighten it up - it seats itself! Standard engineering procedure.
If the nut is working loose - with enough force to shear a split pin - then there is something seriously wrong with that hub carrier and the bearings.

[Danny_California]

Ok cool thats pretty much what I had in my mind anyway. Now to find a big arsed washer....
Thankyou!

[Sprocket]

Nevr ever used this 'bearing seating procedure' - what a laugh!

That is funny because its a Rover special tool

[Sprocket]

Ok cool thats pretty much what I had in my mind anyway. Now to find a big arsed washer....
Thankyou!

MRA Minis sell those on ebay

[Trog]

Something else to check...

I had the same problem, turned out to be the torque wrench... was out of callibration by about 15%... So wasn't tightening the bolt up enough. Should be able to get it checked at a good tool shop, though if it's a cheap one they may not be able to re-callibrate it!

[minidaves]

drive flange or cv joint is knackered

dave

[Cooperman]

I always drill the hole out slightly and use a disc pad retention split pin which is slightly bigger diameter (shortened to suit, of course).

[minitomfoolery]

If your actually tightening it up to the specified torque and its coming undone with enough force to undo the castle nut and break the split pin then something is very seriously wrong with your hub and bearings...My advice is to replace the whole thing or suffer the consequences, tightening it up with a big washer first isn't your problem and wont solve it either.

[icklemini]

Nevr ever used this 'bearing seating procedure' - what a laugh!
Just spin the bearing as you tighten it up - it seats itself! Standard engineering procedure.

Roy its nowt to do with the bearings - its to do with making sure its all pulled up tight (cv into drive flange etc) as the problem is that the cone washer can grip before its all pulled up together - especially if the cv splines are crapped up or new (and tight) parts are used


The pin isnt there to hold the nut back - the tightness of the nut does that... using a bigger pin is just bodgery...

I prefer to leave the pin 'loose'.. that way its dead easy to tell if the nut has started to loosen... as the pin will no longer 'jiggle'

If after following the correct procedures for fitting it still comes loose, then you're looking into new CV, Flange or bearing issue...

[MRA]

Nevr ever used this 'bearing seating procedure' - what a laugh!
Just spin the bearing as you tighten it up - it seats itself! Standard engineering procedure.

Roy its nowt to do with the bearings - its to do with making sure its all pulled up tight (cv into drive flange etc) as the problem is that the cone washer can grip before its all pulled up together - especially if the cv splines are crapped up or new (and tight) parts are used


The pin isnt there to hold the nut back - the tightness of the nut does that... using a bigger pin is just bodgery...

I prefer to leave the pin 'loose'.. that way its dead easy to tell if the nut has started to loosen... as the pin will no longer 'jiggle'

If after following the correct procedures for fitting it still comes loose, then you're looking into new CV, Flange or bearing issue...

Here here also look out for the tell tale signes of failure..... ie a very very fine rusty discolouration, around the centre area

[minimat]

I've always just torqued the nut up and put a new pin through done loads of these and never had a problem with the nut coming loose!
Could be worth checking for damage to the threads in the hub nut and the cv joint though.