18 replies to this topic

[ProjectMusho]

hi all

im in the process of replacing both ball joints on both sides. i was just wondering can this be done without taking the hub off. Also im not too sure how the torque pressure works can any 1 explain for me ?

[OJM]

As far as I remember, they can be done with the hub on, but it will be a right pain due to the positioning etc. I had a problem getting the hub nut loose, so I popped to a local garage who used an impact gun to loosen them - didn't charge me.

What do you mean by not understanding the torque pressure? The torque is basically how tight the nuts etc need to be tighten up too. Best to buy a torque wrench like this - http://rover.ebay.co...9...d=824&kw=lg

You'll find you'll use it a lot more than just tightening nuts to the correct torque - because of the length, they make light work of undoing tight nuts!

[jinjrich]

Its actually far easier than you think... how i do them is to add shims (you'll need a few of different thicknesses) under the nut and tighten the joint down (with no grease in) until you can just move the threaded stud with a ring spanner. Once youve got this then tighten and grease through with a grease gun. Dont forget to turn up the edges of the lock ring against the big nut!! Its also good to 'lap' in the joint before assembling- to get rid of any high spots. Hope this helps.

Oh and forgot to say theres no need to take off the hub

Edited by jinjrich, 04 September 2009 - 11:25 AM.

[998dave]

Torque Pressure? What now?

You need to split the upper and lower ball joints, and remove from the arms if you're replacing both upper and lower ball joints.

By this time all left holding the hub on would be the brake caliper and steering arm, so remove these first and split both balljoints. Next reshim the top ball joint, and grease etc, then lift the lower pin out of the lower arm and you can rotate the hub and put the new top balljoint in the bottom arm, reshim the lower balljoint, turn it back over, and reconnect everything.

Saying that, removing the hub and doing it all on a bench is easier, and only one more bolt to undo.

Dave

[998dave]

because of the length, they make light work of undoing tight nuts!

But you shouldn't do this, as the shock loading you use can damage and alter the torque setting parts.
Instead spend £10 on a nice breaker bar that you can jump up and down on all you like.

Dave

[ProjectMusho]

thanks guys helps alot now i understand. this will be the first time i've changed ball joints but i need to learn as im going to do an apprentiship or mechanics soon but still 1 more question, when i order the new ball joints from minispares should i order a few different shims

[jinjrich]

thanks guys helps alot now i understand. this will be the first time i've changed ball joints but i need to learn as im going to do an apprentiship or mechanics soon but still 1 more question, when i order the new ball joints from minispares should i order a few different shims

You get some with the ball joints but i reckon its a good idea to get a few more. Just get a selection - if you dont use them all you can have them spare and use them when the joint wears a bit....

[ProjectMusho]

thanks all I'll let you know how i do when i get the new joint kit.

[lrostoke]

good video

[ProjectMusho]

sorry me again just need 1 more quick question answered. im on minispares looking at the ball joint tools and not sure which 1 i need or which 1 is best. can any 1 send me a link of the correct tools needed for this job

[lrostoke]

socket

http://www.minispare...=...NT 1.5

splitter

http://www.minispare...=...&title=BALL JOINT SPLITTER SCISS...

although half the price from machinemart

http://www.machinema...l-joint-remover

oh and a torque wrench

Edited by lrostoke, 04 September 2009 - 12:18 PM.

[ProjectMusho]

thanks iron

[GraemeC]

Personally I don't believe he gets the ball joint tight enough in that video on you tube - the pin moves far too easily.

I would always remove the hub and secure it in a vice - the existing joint can be hard to undo and torqueing the new ones is also difficult with the hub flapping about on the lower arm.
Removing the hub gives you chance to check the wheel bearings, seals, CV joint and gaiter. However you wmay need a torque wrench capable of 200lb/ft to reassemble (depending on the CV type) - I strongly recommend the biggest in the Halfords range.

[cookie4343]

Does anyone no where i can just buy shims as i used all the shims out of both balljoint kits to do one side, if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be a big help thanks fella's.

[998dave]

Does anyone no where i can just buy shims as i used all the shims out of both balljoint kits to do one side, if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be a big help thanks fella's.

Cookie,

There's something wrong if you've had to use all the shims, did you remove all the grease and clean up the surfaces before rebuilding and filling with grease?

The ball joint pin should only just be movable by hand when done up tight, not free moving.

Dave