27 replies to this topic

[GraemeC]

With it being a Moke and therfore potentially less weight acting on the suspension, then the machining may still be necessary to acheive a standard ride height.
The cones wil setlle a little with use too - although the red spots don't settle as much as std ones.

I presume you have standard, early knuckle joints and not later ones with a build in spacer?

Edited by GraemeC, 10 September 2009 - 09:17 AM.

[deanmoke]

With it being a Moke and therfore potentially less weight acting on the suspension, then the machining may still be necessary to acheive a standard ride height.
The cones wil setlle a little with use too - although the red spots don't settle as much as std ones.

I presume you have standard, early knuckle joints and not later ones with a build in spacer?

Yes, they are the standard knuckles with no spacer.
The suspension has dropped a bit since I first fitted the cones which has made the camber more reasonable but the wheels are still leaning outwards at the tops.
Dean

[GraemeC]

Presumably before fitting the knew cones & HiLos it sat fine?
Do you have standard bottom arms, not adjustable or fixed 'extra' camber ones?

[deanmoke]

Presumably before fitting the knew cones & HiLos it sat fine?
Do you have standard bottom arms, not adjustable or fixed 'extra' camber ones?

It was sitting too low previously as cones/knuckles/bushes were totally stuffed. The bottom arms are standard. The HILO's are RipSpeed ones.
Dean

[GraemeC]

Hmm, I know little about Mokes and whether they are fitted with the same length front alloy trumpets as Minis as standard or whether they are shorter due to the reduction in vehicle weight. If they are shorter then I could see a potential problem.

[no66]

With red spot cones and HiLos it is recommended to shorten the HiLo body by around 10mm and the adjusting bolt by 25mm to be able to achieve a low car.
Shortening the HiLo body will be a machining task - not a hacksaw!! Shortening the adjuster can be done with a hacksaw/grinder.

At your own risk you could run without the lock nut which would allow the HiLo to adjust shorter - you would still need to shorten the adjusting bolt though as it will hit the centre of the cone.

From Minispares
If using these on 10" wheels with Hilos you may have to cut 3/4" off the end of the centre threaded bolt of the old type Hilo with a circlip as it will bottom out on the cone spring face and the car will sit high, for extremely lowered cars the hilo face will also need machining a few mm.

I'm about to mount red dots with original Hi-Los. I get cutting the inner aduster bolt so it doesn't hit the inner of the cone. 3/4" = 19.05

 

The shortening of the face, does this mean the flange side or the nuckle side to regain adjustment? Any drawings? Have access to a lathe and want to do it correctly. 

Thanks

[nicklouse]

Knuckle side.

[no66]

Thanks, take off about 10mm? 

[Spider]

Thanks, take off about 10mm? 

 

I take 12 mm off them, but before taking any off, check how long the thread is in the particular Hilo Unit you have. You want to end up with no less than 15 mm of thread on the main body. I have also either fitted 1/2 or lock nuts (if not already fitted) and taken material from the front of the Main Bolt, slimming that to around 5 - 6 mm.

[DeadSquare]

How good are you with a hacksaw ?

 

Downton used to cut 5/16" off the steel collar round the top of the doughnut by hand

[no66]

How good are you with a hacksaw ?

 

Downton used to cut 5/16" off the steel collar round the top of the doughnut by hand

Hmm, good with a hacksaw, but doudt I will be cutting brand new red dots

by the way these are old Hilos with no lock nuts. Will get them out soon, Maybe will have to buy a new set. Not sure of the condition. 

Anyway, thanks for the replies. 

 

[no66]

Finally got round to getting the rears out. The original owner of the car had done a good job and the inside of cone/hilo was packed with grease, so was the rubber gaitor. Grease was still soft! Must be at least 30 years old!

Will get them cleaned up and shorten the top of the bolt and the bottom of trumpet. Will get a grove turned in to keep the rubber boot in place. 

I see that when one shortens the aduster bolt, one looses the stop step. Probably not a problem as one usuall goes lower, not higher. 

Edited by no66, 18 January 2020 - 09:06 AM.

[no66]

Right, these are original Ripspeed Hilos, no locking nuts, but circlip

Just to confirm before lathing

Main bolt according til Minispares, take off 19mm = 3/4", ditch the circlips? Crazy About Mini's  you say 5 to 6 mm? 

Alu body, least 15mm threads. I have 26mm of threads so 10mm off will give me og 16mm threads. OK? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by no66, 28 January 2020 - 09:01 AM.