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#331 Dolly 89

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 12:41 PM

nice work mate i love this project i keep looking back i love your work

#332 sonikk4

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 12:49 PM

Hi they have long gone i'm afraid. We sold those last year.

#333 sonikk4

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Posted 20 October 2010 - 04:39 PM

L/h rear floor now in
Tacked in place
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Welded in place (hundreds of tack welds to cut down on distortion)
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The repair panel was not quite long enough to cover this bit of rot so
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chopped it out
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new piece of old floor
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everything fitted and ground down
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Just the inside to clean up then it will be onto the other side.

#334 daveeeeee

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Posted 20 October 2010 - 05:58 PM

Nice job, that spit really is useful.

#335 sonikk4

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 03:09 PM

Another day another floor, all cutout
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New one tacked in place
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Mmm had to cut out an extra bit
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And this is why, i had previously cleaned it treated etc but it had to go especially with all the new metal being installed
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And all welded in apart from the flutes as these need a bit of hammer and block work to make them match
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#336 myredmini

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 07:32 PM

what can i say, thats brilliant, you really inspire me with your work, i take my hat off to you and say well done, keep up the hard work !!

Dan

#337 sonikk4

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 07:34 PM

Cheers Dan.

#338 jagman.2003

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 10:03 AM

Excellent work, very thorough. I've been using some of these pics as a guideline for mine, as it came a little lightweight on some of those hidden panels. I'm sure you must've answered this question before but how do you cut the old panel out so accurately?

Edited by jagman.2003, 22 October 2010 - 10:04 AM.


#339 sonikk4

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 01:13 PM

Excellent work, very thorough. I've been using some of these pics as a guideline for mine, as it came a little lightweight on some of those hidden panels. I'm sure you must've answered this question before but how do you cut the old panel out so accurately?


Hi, the first thing to do is to decide just how much of the floor etc you need to change, in our case we did not need the inner sill section and not all of the tunnel curve.
Cut the panel to the size you need then offer it up to the old floor. I placed the new cut section of floor over the old and then rough marked its location. I had to lay the floor pan over the heel board so in theory the floor pan would be cut short length wise allowing me to trim extra off.

After checking the replacement floor flute's matched up to the original flute's i then marked out the cut lines and chopped the floor out slightly under sized.
Then it was a case of trimming everything back until i had a gap of approx 1mm on three sides. This gap is needed to get the intergrips in place.
Once its clamped in place then tack weld, check everything then i personally do lots of pulse welds instead of seam welds to minimize distortion, plus i use a damp rag to help cool the welds and local area down.

I only use the 1mm thick stainless steel cutting disc's now as they leave a very fine cut and they do cut quicker than the thicker type of cutting disc's.

Hope this helps

Neil

#340 Dolly 89

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 02:02 PM

Excellent work, very thorough. I've been using some of these pics as a guideline for mine, as it came a little lightweight on some of those hidden panels. I'm sure you must've answered this question before but how do you cut the old panel out so accurately?


Hi, the first thing to do is to decide just how much of the floor etc you need to change, in our case we did not need the inner sill section and not all of the tunnel curve.
Cut the panel to the size you need then offer it up to the old floor. I placed the new cut section of floor over the old and then rough marked its location. I had to lay the floor pan over the heel board so in theory the floor pan would be cut short length wise allowing me to trim extra off.

After checking the replacement floor flute's matched up to the original flute's i then marked out the cut lines and chopped the floor out slightly under sized.
Then it was a case of trimming everything back until i had a gap of approx 1mm on three sides. This gap is needed to get the intergrips in place.
Once its clamped in place then tack weld, check everything then i personally do lots of pulse welds instead of seam welds to minimize distortion, plus i use a damp rag to help cool the welds and local area down.

I only use the 1mm thick stainless steel cutting disc's now as they leave a very fine cut and they do cut quicker than the thicker type of cutting disc's.

Hope this helps

Neil

where do you get the 1mm cutting discs from all they have at the local focus is the 3mm ones

#341 sonikk4

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 04:33 PM

I get mine from fleabay try this number 280512855421 >_< :thumbsup:

#342 Dolly 89

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 03:34 PM

I get mine from fleabay try this number 280512855421 :D :xxx:

thats perfect cheers mate

#343 RS##BAM

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 03:34 PM

still looking as good as ever , always enjoy reading the updates on this one .

#344 scsracing

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 04:32 PM

still looking as good as ever , always enjoy reading the updates on this one .



Thank you,nice to know people enjoy the updates.

Anywhere here's a non ERM related update.Next weekend he will have a new garage mate(think her name is cubbie :D).99% original with very low mileage,sneek preview ;)

Posted Image

Wont be any other updates this week as there is some minor house work to be done so hopefully will be getting it all blitzed this week :xxx:

#345 nrwilliams

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 04:40 PM

I love this thread! Fantastic motivation to get on with my Sprite! Keep the updates coming.




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