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Bleeding Rear Brakes No Fluid Coming Through


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#1 chrisg

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 12:05 PM

hey guys
ive been bleeding my new brake system and after fixing a leaking joint im trying to bleed the back brakes i've done the front ones first because they were easier to get to, but now when doing the back ones i cant get the fluid through to the back. I am using the easy bleed kit but still cant seam to get it to work. what could be wrong pressure regulator?

#2 m1tch

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 12:09 PM

hey guys
ive been bleeding my new brake system and after fixing a leaking joint im trying to bleed the back brakes i've done the front ones first because they were easier to get to, but now when doing the back ones i cant get the fluid through to the back. I am using the easy bleed kit but still cant seam to get it to work. what could be wrong pressure regulator?


You have to do them in order, you need to do:

Rear Passenger
Rear driver
Front passenger
Front driver

#3 MRA

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 12:29 PM

The sequence is important......

Firstly you need to ascertain which master cylinder you have fotted to your car (a photo would help) and whether you have split or tandem circuits.... easy one this just look under the car at the rear, if you have a "T" piece mounted on the front of the rear subframe or 2 seperate pipes the full length of the car let us know ?

However it is not always as M1tch has stated above, he has stated the more common sequence.

Edited by mra-minis.co.uk, 24 August 2009 - 12:29 PM.


#4 chrisg

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 12:29 PM

i have a front rear split system fitted with the green taged master on it. what the best step to do next

Edited by chrisg, 24 August 2009 - 12:32 PM.


#5 icklemini

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 04:25 PM

Blocked bleed nipple?

#6 lawnmowercrap

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 05:25 PM

Blocked bleed nipple?



I had this trouble and it was because of a massive airblock.

Wedge something onto the brake pedal to keep it pressed down, fill up the resovoir and leave the cap off. Leave it for a few hours then take off the thing you have wedged the brake pedal down with.
Bleed it in the sequence above. You always start bleeding the one furthest away from the master cylinder first then work your way round (Nsr,Osr,Nsf,Osf).
What I had to do for the rears was get someone in the car, brim the resovoir then undo the bleed nipple quite a way out. Get them to press the brake pedal and hold it down, then when its down, put your finger over the nipple. Then tell them to release the pedal and pump again, as they begin to pump take your finger off and put it back on when the pedal is down again.
Keep doing it until it literally squirts the brake fluid out. And wear some gloves lol brake fluid is evil.

Lee

#7 Neildanks

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 05:31 PM

Have You Got a Rear Bias On The Subframe If So I Had To Manuelly Bleed Mine By Opening Bleed Nipple Then Get Someone To Push Foot All Way Down On Pedal And Hold It Until You Lock Up Bleed Nipple
Repeat This On Both Wheels A Couple Of Times And Then Check

Whilst Under pressure and then unlocking bleed nipple nothing came out on my 1975 mini

#8 dklawson

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 06:01 PM

I had the same thought as Neildanks. If there is a proportioning valve on the rear subframe, there's a good chance it is being shuttled closed during the bleed process.

I know some people swear by EZ-Bleed. I haven't used one so I can't comment on how well they work. I have always used the two-man method described above by Neil. However, recently I have replaced the second person with Teflon tape on the bleed nipple threads and a check valve in the bleed hose tubing. Gentle pumping with the two man method (or a check valve in the bleed hose) has worked well for me over the years.

However, I have had trouble initially bleeding a system that was new and bone dry. In that situation I filled the reservoir and opened the bleed nipples to the rear wheels and waited for the fluid to find its way down and out (on both sides) before using the two-man bleed method.

#9 Adcuz

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 06:04 PM

I had this problem last week too. I found it to be the one-way valve on the kit was stuck so wouldn't let any liquid out. I popped the end off and ditched the ball bearing. I filled a jar with brake fluid and the put the end of the pipe submerged in the jar. I then proceeded to bleed the rears as normal and it worked fine. I might get flamed for suggesting this but it worked for me!

#10 lawnmowercrap

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 06:07 PM

We use the EZ bleed at work but if you have the tyre pressures just a smidgin over the recomended pressure (10p.s.i i think) it can suck the seals through.
We've had had it a number of times on the new Astras so i personally wouldnt recomend it on a much older car.

#11 mrbridger

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 06:21 PM

clamping the hose can cause it to collapse inside and prevent fluid leaving the nipple.
A hose can look fine externally and it can happen even if you use a proper hose clamp!
Its possible to do a systematic check from the master cylinder backwards toward the problematic corner(s). Loosen slightly each union to see if any fluid seeps from the joint.
The point at which fluid does not emerge is likely to be your blockage point.

#12 chrisg

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 09:43 AM

cheer will give it another go tonight. I dont have a rear bias valve, the whole system is new so hopfully the pipes shound be ok but might have to go down the road of checking them all if i cant get the fluid through anyother way. Im a bit scared to start undoing joints dont want to damage the threads they are soo soft and its a pain in the bum to get to some of them
is it worth flushing the system of fluid and re starting at the rear of the car

#13 MRA

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 10:42 AM

Hi,

Like I said the sequence is important and must be adhered to, it is also not necessarily as listed above, for instance.........

Early single circuit systems where NSF, OSF, NSR, OSR
Early dual OSR, NSR, NSF, OSF
Later dual OSR, NSF, NSR, OSF

#14 Big_Adam

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 10:57 AM

We use the EZ bleed at work but if you have the tyre pressures just a smidgin over the recomended pressure (10p.s.i i think) it can suck the seals through.
We've had had it a number of times on the new Astras so i personally wouldnt recomend it on a much older car.


I use mine on El Odio the 64 Hornet. Seems fine with it but I'm using closer to 82 braking system. Then again I never use the recommended pressure either. But I have yet to have bleeding issues because of it.

#15 m1tch

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 12:11 PM

We use the EZ bleed at work but if you have the tyre pressures just a smidgin over the recomended pressure (10p.s.i i think) it can suck the seals through.
We've had had it a number of times on the new Astras so i personally wouldnt recomend it on a much older car.


I use mine on El Odio the 64 Hornet. Seems fine with it but I'm using closer to 82 braking system. Then again I never use the recommended pressure either. But I have yet to have bleeding issues because of it.



EEZIbleed kit is awesome lol :) you don't even need to keep topping the brake fluid up, it does it for you lol




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