19 replies to this topic

[mikerigg]

Is there an easy way to remove and replace the mounting plate from under the brake and clutch reservoirs on the bulkhead? The one on my '85 Min City is badly corroded and I have bought a replacement.

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[nomininolife]

Sorry but no easy way round this one, its not that hard a job, allow yourself a couple of hours providing the nuts are not rusted to the studs use plenty of WD40 night before preferably

[Guess-Works.com]

but you will have to remove the split pins from the pedals inside, replace them with R clips as it''ll make the job ten times easier the next time, other than that, un bolt and remove, you may even be lucky and have enough play in the brake/clutch lines to not have to undo them aswell..

[mikerigg]

Thanks I'll give it a go!

[Brumski]

Handy trick...

Undo all the nuts and get a helper to press the clutch pedal.... you will be able to lift the master cylinder enough to get a pair of needle nose pliers in to remove the split pin and the pin holding the pedal to the shaft.

Then repeat for the brake pedal and master cylinder.

Then remove the plate. Use a wire brush in a drill to thoroughly clean up the threads and use new nuts etc when reassembling.

If the threads are knackered then its a replacement pedal box though.

Reassembling is not so easy but remove the large air pipe going from the inner wing to the heater. You should be able to reinsert the jointing pins and then use R clips.

Carl.

[The Matt]

does that work, if so I needed that hint a few years ago. Gettin that pin out was a mare, I is slightly larger than your average bear and I took the seat out and struggled like mad!

[Turbo Nick]

i've been re-fitting mine for the last 3 hours and i still haven't managed to get either of the pins in place!

i'm off to try brumski's tips now, except i welded up the hole where the air pipe used to go....arse!

[dklawson]

Brumski, if I understand the tip/trick...
Undo the bolts and allow pushing the clutch/brake pedal to lift the entire reservoir up so you can access the split pin from inside the engine bay instead of under the dash? Is that what you're suggesting? Is there usually enough play or motion in the hydraulic lines to allow that?

[Jammy]

Well if your removing the master cylinder my guess is that you have disconnected the lines?

[Purple Tom]

but its just the plate I think that he wants to remove, rather than the cylinders.

I think it would be a bit dicey lifting the cylinders, as they have the come up a good inch, which would I imagine put quite a bit of stress on the lines and unions.

If they were in good nick you'd likely get away with it, but the last thing you want is to break a pipe or union....

[T.Dog]

Brumski, I'm glad I have come across your lil trick! seems like a top idea and I will give it a go tomorrow after spending all day today on my back with no luck, that split pin is a sod!

[T.Dog]

So went to try out Brumski's trick today as in theory sounded like it would work. No disrespect but It didn't. Even with the longest of longe nose pliers and the clutch pedal wedge firmly to the floor with a piece of 4x2, the hole is not big enough to reach the split pin from the top. Tin snips proved to be the best way.

[GuamMini]

How do I remove the one nut that holds to brake master cylinder on the bulk head? The one in between the brake and clutch with the clutch line and hydrolastic line blocking the one nut in the back.

[DeadSquare]

How do I remove the one nut that holds to brake master cylinder on the bulk head? The one in between the brake and clutch with the clutch line and hydrolastic line blocking the one nut in the back.

 

 

A photo or two would help.

[GuamMini]