35 replies to this topic

[Jupitus]

I've looked at lots of different fuse boxes in the past during design of loom bits and pieces and really think that to get a decent modern one you have to look at moving the fuses inside the car - the clearances within the engine bay don't really allow it, although I like Bungle's sideways job

[Dan]

Am I right in saying then that the dim-dip relay draws it's current that would originally drive the headlights from the inline fuse, and it's feed from the main fusebox is a switch feed? I might be wrong though, since I'm no electronics expert.

Yes, the fused supply to the dim dip system from the fuse box only runs the relay itself. The feed that would originally supply the lamps however is exactly the same as it would be in a car without the system. The dim-dip doesn't exist to isolate the lamp load from anything, all it does is switch the lamps on automatically if you try to drive using the sidelights only. In those circumstances the other dim-dip feed (the inline fuse) is used to supply the lamps independantly of the switches but in all other conditions the circuit is unaltered from the earlier system.

[Brams96]

Just looked at the fuse box from 'Lucky' when I delivered him today and it has a blade type setup with about 20 or so fuses. It must be because it is an SPi Auto. So I think I will try and get my hands on one of those as at least it will keep it 'Mini' still. Anyone got one spare??

[Corty]

i have magic fuses in mine they are 316 stainless steel well they were now ive started to swap them out and am fitting a 12 way . car is being re furbed at the mo .

[Dan]

Anyone got one spare??

The late SPi fusebox was only ever made as an integral part of the loom, it isn't available anywhere.

[Brams96]

Damn! They go for about £350 new!! I guess I'll have to check the breakers yards for one. Even if I have to chop it out I can rewire it with new connections and wiring. If not then I could always source a MPi internal fusebox and rewire the engine bay wiring.

[jmetal88]

Ooh, this one looks like it'd be just the right replacement for the OEM box:

http://www.merlinmot...mp;currency=USD

[Jupitus]

Ooh, this one looks like it'd be just the right replacement for the OEM box:

http://www.merlinmot...mp;currency=USD

That only has 4 male connectors per side, the original has 8

[Brams96]

I checked with www.minimail.co.uk (really good prices) and they can do one as part of the whole loom for £75. Still a bit much especially as I only need the fuse box. I suppose i could just replace the whole wiring loom??

Edited by Brams96, 21 August 2009 - 06:54 PM.

[ste88]

MPi Fusebox

[mars red mike]

everyone else on here says there roughly double the rating.....i.e a 15A blade fuse would blow at 30A...where as a 35A glass fuse blows at 35A...the blades rating is there constant current rating...as in the rating there desinged to constantly run at...atleast thats what i have been told by a couple of people on here.....the displayed value on the blad is only half of what it takes to blow it

This doesnt make any sense to me at all. The numbers on a fuse are the maximum current that can pass through it before it blows protecting the circuit that it is part of not its constant current rating. A 15 amp fuse will run constantly at a tad under 15A until that is exceeded then it will blow. I have never heard such rubbish advice given out.

[monster_mini]

not to sound stupid, but whats the virdict on this:P i have a new blade fuse box and am now worried i have the wrong blades in, can someone clarify which is true, or atleast which is the safest option until then:P?

thanks

[Dan]

I have never heard such rubbish advice given out.

Then perhaps you should try finding things out rather than just assuming you know.

The numbers on a fuse are the maximum current that can pass through it before it blows protecting the circuit that it is part of not its constant current rating.

That isn't true. Blade fuses are rated at what they are designed to run, not at where they blow. A red blade fuse with 10 stamped on it has an instant fail rating of 20 amps. Look it up. Between 10 and 20 amps it will just heat up and eventually fail but it will take a while, during which time it may well start a fire. This is why electrical design should be left to people who know how to do it, and you should never simply assume you know enough to design a system.

[monster_mini]

soo what blade fuses should i be putting in? 2 times the amount of the standard glass ones?

[mars red mike]

Care to point me in the direction of where you obtained this information?