35 replies to this topic

[Brams96]

I just pulled and cleaned up the fuse box on the car and thought that the back looked fairly exposed to the elements, which got me thinking, why dont I just replace it with a better one with more capability and that uses the more modern blade fuses. So...

Has anyone successfully done this before?
Did you find any problems when doing it?
Has nayone relocated the fuse box and how hard was it?

Cheers

[captainjack15]

This is all well and good, but you'll need to find out what the equivalent 15, 25 etc amp fuses are in the blade type as they aren't the same rating!

Bungle has done this (Fairly confident it was him )

Edited by captainjack15, 14 August 2009 - 08:57 AM.

[nordicmini]

I just pulled and cleaned up the fuse box on the car and thought that the back looked fairly exposed to the elements, which got me thinking, why dont I just replace it with a better one with more capability and that uses the more modern blade fuses. So...

Has anyone successfully done this before?
Did you find any problems when doing it?
Has nayone relocated the fuse box and how hard was it?

Cheers

yes i have moved it to under the dash, past it through the bulkhead under the dash next to steering column its a bit tight but it fits

just ask

good luck

[Bungle]

i fitted a 12 way behind the carb

the first 4 fuses replace the 4 in the fuse box

the next 4 replace the inline fuses

the final 4 are for things like the radio, spot lights, central locking, etc

[bmcecosse]

Blade fuses are marked and rated exactly the same - no problem there!

[stormintrooper]

everyone else on here says there roughly double the rating.....i.e a 15A blade fuse would blow at 30A...where as a 35A glass fuse blows at 35A...the blades rating is there constant current rating...as in the rating there desinged to constantly run at...atleast thats what i have been told by a couple of people on here.....the displayed value on the blad is only half of what it takes to blow it


bungle.....dont supose you mind whipping up a circuit diagram for that fuse box as i heard its not as simple as swapping the wires over....something to do with the normal style fuse box swaring connections or something

and the blade values

Edited by stormintrooper, 14 August 2009 - 04:20 PM.

[Bungle]

i just swapped the wires from 1 box to the other

all the wires reached with out having to join any bits on

the only thing i had to do was the old fuse box had connections for 2 spade connectors into each side

the new one didn't so i had to cut off the old crimps and put 2 wires into 1 new larger crimp

[stormintrooper]

hmm....sounds good..what about fuse values?

[dsgoody]

I've done it on mine, because when I brought the car it was fitted with the wrong fuse box - so the logical choice was just to buy a universal 4 way fuse box.

I've used 15A fuses for numbers 1 to 6. Then a 10A fuse for 7 and 8. That combination works fine for me however I have put my headlights on external relays so the original dim-dip relay uses next to no power.

EDIT: I've also done the same for the inline fuses, again with no problems. Bungle has pointed out any small issues you might run into like having to recrimp some connections.

Edited by dsgoody, 14 August 2009 - 05:47 PM.

[Dan]

Blade fuses are marked and rated exactly the same - no problem there!

No they aren't, Stormintrooper has it right above.

Dsgoody, you should put the correct value fuses in all circuits. De-rating the fuses is dangerous and can cause severe over heating of the wiring. You may feel happier that you have put your headlamps on relays but these don't draw any power through the fuse box anyway (other than for the sidelights) so you haven't relieved any current from the fusebox by doing so. The dim-dip relay is simply a switching relay and doesn't isolate any headlamp load from anything.

[dsgoody]

Dsgoody, you should put the correct value fuses in all circuits. De-rating the fuses is dangerous and can cause severe over heating of the wiring. You may feel happier that you have put your headlamps on relays but these don't draw any power through the fuse box anyway (other than for the sidelights) so you haven't relieved any current from the fusebox by doing so. The dim-dip relay is simply a switching relay and doesn't isolate any headlamp load from anything.

Oops. When I decided to do that I looked in the Haynes Manual and it said that the Dim-Dip relay was powered from he first fuse (terminals 1 and 2), so I simply derated the fuse by 5A ironically to try and make it safer. *Goes down to the garage and changes 15A fuse to a 20A fuse*

Am I right in saying then that the dim-dip relay draws it's current that would originally drive the headlights from the inline fuse, and it's feed from the main fusebox is a switch feed? I might be wrong though, since I'm no electronics expert.

[Brams96]

Good Debate guys and some very valid points.

Bungle's looks very practical, but there are too many wires and it takes up too much room for what I want to achieve. I was thinking of sourcing a fuse/relay box from another vehicle that I can mount in the engine bay (something like this maybe?) It would have to be from a reasonably small car to keep the size down and have enough ways.

Any ideas which cars I should look into?

[Hekmat]

You can always try this site, they have modular fuse boxes.

[Brams96]

Perfect! The 16 way fuse box is exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks Hekmat

[Bungle]

^^^^thats where mine came from^^^^