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1979 Austin Mini 1000 Restoration


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#46 Bash Master

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Posted 23 January 2010 - 05:39 PM

few more updates to post. i haven't done that much in the past few weeks thanks to other priorities but did get a few things done in past couple of days. had a trip to a mini specialist yesterday and got hold of another front and rear subframe. these will be used to make sure all the panels line up. also bought a set of pooched wheels + tyres for moving the car round when the subframes are fitted. a replacement back seat panel was cut out for me as the one that's on my mini at the moment has seen better days.

so, the most recent progress, cut out the old inner wing, grey oxide primed the front end and seam sealed it. then fitted the front subframe.

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#47 Bash Master

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 10:43 PM

i've got a few things done this week.

chopped out the old rear seat panel and replaced it with a better one. at some point in the cars life a large hole had been made in this panel and then it had been bodged back together with a funny circular patch and lots of filler. also, the raised part in the middle had been flattened for some reason :D. it took a while to weld the replacement panel in.

from this:
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to this:
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and finally ground the seam welds flat and primed.
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i've also been giving the boot a bit of attention, mostly cleaning it up for painting.

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not much done for 3 days work if i'm honest. i should probably start getting out of bed earlier in the morning ;)

#48 CanadianMiniFan

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Posted 01 February 2010 - 02:41 AM

awesome welding skills mate, you really have saved a mini!

#49 tedmcedd

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Posted 01 February 2010 - 06:22 PM

this is impressive! your fabricating and welding skills are top notch! good luck wit the rest of it!

Ed

#50 Bash Master

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 06:26 PM

it's been a while since my last update. a lot's changed since my last post and i have plenty of things to talk about lol :D

had to repair the o/s rear window sill as it was fairly pitted with rust and had a few holes. cut out the old metal and fitted a new strip. the primed and filled to finish it off.

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i have also started the exterior filler work.

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then proceeded to remove loose painted and dirt from the floor panels, then painted with grey oxide primer. also rust proofed the n/s door step and the fillered and primed.

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then cleaned up the front end and painted it grey oxide followed by some seam sealer to seal the joints. i used spray primer to paint the dash rails.

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moving on to the boot and i have fitted the new subframe mounting brackets, primed and then i gave the whole boot a coat of smooth black hammerite. i did have a slight problem with the rear subframe not fitting properly though. the valance closing plates i have made were just a bit too far out of position so the rear subframe mounts had to be cut down to fit. now there is one bolt holding the subframe in either side instead of 2. should still be strong enough.

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lastly, after a whole load of messing around with minispeed my new o/s wing has turned up today after a 2 month wait. i can now start work on reforming the front end, thank god :dontgetit: after that it's all about stripping away the many, many different layers of paint and flatting ready for primer.

#51 GraemeC

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 06:34 PM

I really would not rely on one bolt in each rear subframe mounting - the trunions will rotate around that bold and the subframe will move about, probably snapping the front mounting bolts. I also doubt any MoT tester worth his job would pass the car with missing mounting bolts in such a key area.

#52 edi57

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 06:44 PM

Nice project and absolute first class welding!

Keep up the great work!

#53 Bash Master

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 10:24 PM

I really would not rely on one bolt in each rear subframe mounting - the trunions will rotate around that bold and the subframe will move about, probably snapping the front mounting bolts. I also doubt any MoT tester worth his job would pass the car with missing mounting bolts in such a key area.


i thought someone would say that. it might be worth me modifying the mounts so i can get a second bolt in them. i don't think it will affect strength as the mounts are at the moment but you're right about the MOT tester's, we all know they can be tight g!ts at times >:D i'll get some decent photos up of the problem tomorrow.

#54 GraemeC

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 08:53 AM

It is not just a question of strength, ensuring you have positive location is just as important. Which just isn't possible with one bolt in each mount when they will be subject to forces in all directions.

#55 feybrand

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 08:59 PM

what the f were them lights good build though

#56 Bash Master

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 10:19 PM

the problem:

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the solution:

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welded a nut on each mounting bracket. just needs the extra holes drilling in the boot floor. hopefully it should be ok now.

what the f were them lights good build though


god knows, their gone now though :thumbsup:

#57 Bash Master

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 07:28 PM

more progress

fitted the new scuttle and closing panels.

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#58 Bash Master

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 07:31 PM

well, it's been almost a year since my last update. that doesn't mean i have been sat on my backside doing nothing though! thought i would post some pics of how the progress stands at the moment.

today i spray primed the whole shell. this is just to stop it rusting whilst i save up for a full paint job.

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i also got my hands on a 1275 engine last year which is being rebuilt to 1380 spec with lots of nice performance parts. so far i have rebuilt the gearbox and cleaned/inpected the engine parts ready for the machining stage but as i am low on funds at the moment i've been spending most of my time painting little bits to keep me going.

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just need a new cross pin diff and straight cut drop gears and i can cross the gearbox off the list of things to do :(

#59 Bash Master

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 09:04 PM

some more updates

moved the mini from it's semi-outside building to a nice sheltered workshop. now i can work on the shell in any weather as i'll be inside :)

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todays efforts involved removing the old top engine mounting bracket and replacing with a new one. i also took the bulkhead back to bare metal and red oxide primered it.

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so, what else have i been doing since my last post, you may ask? well, a lot of refurbishing that's what. subframes have been stripped again as my first attempt was poor to be honest. all suspension parts have been taken back to bare metal, etch primed, red oxide primed and then coated in a special rust preventing paint called noxyde. subframes themselves have been strengthened by finishing the seam welds off and are to be sand blasted and powder coated yellow next month. i'll get some more pics up when i start putting them back together, here is the front just after welding:

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my 1380 engine build is starting to come together as well. list of the spec:

ENGINE:
MED 1380 block
Omega 73.5mm cast pistons
1275 A+ rods
ARP rod bolts
Minisport 1275 A+ balanced and nitrocarburised crankshaft
12G940 MOWOG 11 stud head ported and polished. nimonic 36mm inlet amd 31mm exhaust valves, bronze valve guides, 200lb double valve springs.
Minisport 1.5:1 ratio roller tip rockers
Alloy inlet manifold - port matched and polished
HIF44 carb vizard modified
Kent 286 cam
Minispares lightened cam followers
Minisport lightened vernier duplex timing chain and gear set
aldon yellow 100AY distributer with electronic ignition
Oil cooler

GEARBOX/CLUTCH
rebuilt 1275 A+ gearbox
straight cut drop gears
minisport cross pin diff
lightened pre verto flywheel and backplate
orange clutch diaphragm
AP fast road clutch plate

i've been collecting parts for a few months now just waiting on the crankshaft and then i can start putting it all together :) here's a taster

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more pics to come in the next few weeks hopefully.

#60 grahama

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 09:16 PM

Superb tidy welding, wish I had that sort of control with mine. Keep it up.

Graham




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