22 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

Yeah, it's inevitably swings and roundies.

I've made countless copper pipes 'n never had one fail. I do see how you might be more concerned if you were building a rally car though. You'll get both locally, try and blag a bit of pipe to experiment with.

[bmcecosse]

I give 'staightforward' answers - if you don't like the advice - no skin off my nose!
I learned my style from the Master - Nightrain!!
Copper brake pipe will hold the pressure (assuming it's not a bit 'borrowed' from the local plumber) - but the problem comes in time with the inherent problem that it 'work hardens' and cracks. My car came with a couple of copper pipes - one day when adjusting the rear brakes one of them just 'fell off' when I brushed against it - the end had cracked through at the flare. Kunifer is plenty strong and has NO corrosion or cracking risks - just seems the sensible choice to me!

[m1tch]

Or hard copper pipes with braided brake lines for the flexible parts

[Nightrain]

I learned my style from the Master - Nightrain!!

What me lol

[MKSteve]

Hey, bmcecosse, I bought some Kunifer line today, it's what I was looking at anyway, as a few peep in various places (mainly Americans to be honest) have said it is the better choice, and with there being little difference in price, I decided to plumb for it. Best be safe eh? Especially for my 1st attempt.
How is it to work with tho? And can I use the same nuts as for the copper stuff?

I have the same 'straight forward' answers style going on in my everyday life. Can get me into a fair bit of bother at work tho, as people often mistake me for being rude, abrassive, and blunt. Which I possibly am, but I'm also brutally honest and don't tip-toe round issues or sugar coat things, so at least people know where they stand


Steve

[Ethel]

Yes you can use all the same unions. It is a bit harder, depends on your flaring tool. Watch out for the pipe slipping and being pushed out of the die before it forms a flare.

[MKSteve]

Hi all!

Thanks for all the advice.

Well, I managed to remove the old corroded brake lines, made some new ones, and installed them.

I've just tried to bleed the system, but without any success. I've got one of those 1 man brake bleeding thinymabobs, (a hose with a one way valve at the end, and a bottle) but no matter how hard I try, and how many times I pump, when I return to the bottle, there only about 20ml of fluid in there.

What gives? I've tried to bleed all 4 wheels. Do you leave the resoviour cap on, or off for bleeding?
I can build up pressure in the system by pumping the pedal, which I assume is compressing the air, but it won't push any fluid out?

Anyone got any ideas to help?

Remember it's an Astra van by the way, but I thought you guys would still have the knowledge. And all the Astra sites seem a little 'chavy' to me!

On the plus side, I did manage to change all the suspension springs, and fix the rear drum brakes this week, so I don't feel entirely useless!

Steve

[mini7boy]

some information on "copper" brake pipes.

http://64.90.169.191...tive/brake.html

http://64.90.169.191...brake_tube.html


Sources for brake pipe and fittings

U.S. source for brake bits of all types: http://www.fedhillusa.com/

British bits: http://store.fedhill...ndfittings.aspx

British source: http://www.automec.co.uk/