22 replies to this topic

[MKSteve]

Hi all!

Got a quick question;

How easy is it to make your own brake lines?

I have some corroded ones on my Astra van that need replacing, and I thought that rather than pay someone else, I could put the money towards the proper tools, and do it myself, then I would have both the tools and the know how to replace or repair the lines on the Mini I'm rebuilding. Nice new lines would be good investment for the mini I think, not to mention looking good in the engine bay.

I've read as much as I can about it, and watched many vids, and am now at the stage where I'm ready to order the bits and have a go.

Is it worth it do you think? Is it really a DIY job, or is it best left to a pro?

Thanks for your thoughts peeps!

Steve

[Ethel]

Perfectly possible. A flaring tool is a good investment if you're likely to replace more than a few brake pipes.

[DrMcNasty]

I just did all mine on the rebuild a matter of a few weeks ago. Expected to take a weekend to do it and manages to cut, flare and install all of them withing 4 hours. Only had to go back and correct one flare that didn't seat properly.

Doing it yourself gives you a lot more flexibility on where they are run as well as allows you to see something and appreciate what you have managed to do. And well to be honest, is probably a PILE cheaper.

Couple things to keep in mind BEFORE you start:
- Make sure you have all the proper fitting ends for the fittings you need. I know I found some pretty strange thread combination on mine - which caused me some grief.
- "Right tool for the right job. Get a proper cutter, bender and flare kit"
- Get a proper tube bender, it just looks nicer.
- Be patient when your doing it. It takes some time but the end result will be a lot nicer if you enjoy it while you do it.
- Make sure your flares are proper!!!!! Will save you from having to redo some later. I knew my one was questionable and should have just corrected it then but thought, whats the worst thing that can happen. And the answer is brake fluid leaking on to brand new paint is the worst thing that could happen .. and it did.


I have a split 2 circuit system that is split from the master the the brass block on the firewall. Then a single feed to the front and back. I bought 25' of line and had probably 8 or so feet left when done.

Feel free to shoot me any questions if you want more information on it.

Edited by DrMcNasty, 12 August 2009 - 06:35 PM.

[SMP]

Always make sure that you cut the brake pipe square. Nearly square is not good enough - it will probably leak!

Cheers
Steve

[Paul Wiginton]

Go to Motor Serv, they sell the kit, the pipe and the fittings

Paul

[MKSteve]

Thanks guys!

I will buy the bits I need tomorrow, and practice on my Astra van (daily drive - but off the road at the moment, before moving on to the mini later.

Will no doubt let you know how I get on!

Steve

[Ethel]

You'll get copper bundy tube 'n unions at any motor factors. Strictly speaking Metric and UNF flares are different but copper is soft enough for them to produce a universal tool that will make flares close enough for both.

[m1tch]

My rear brakes were done when the rear subframe was changed, might be an idea to change some of the connections to metric, that way its easier to get parts and tools

[bmcecosse]

Don't use COPPER!! It work hardens with the flaring - and with subsequent vibration - and cracks !! Use KUNIFER pipe. Slightly harder to make the flares - but last 'for ever'. Some brake pipes on later Minis are m10 x1 thread - other parts are 3/8" UNF. Don't mix them up!

[m1tch]

Don't use COPPER!! It work hardens with the flaring - and with subsequent vibration - and cracks !! Use KUNIFER pipe. Slightly harder to make the flares - but last 'for ever'. Some brake pipes on later Minis are m10 x1 thread - other parts are 3/8" UNF. Don't mix them up!

When I sorted mine I had copper hard pipes and then braided brake lines for the flexible parts works well

[stormintrooper]

Don't use COPPER!! It work hardens with the flaring - and with subsequent vibration - and cracks !! Use KUNIFER pipe. Slightly harder to make the flares - but last 'for ever'. Some brake pipes on later Minis are m10 x1 thread - other parts are 3/8" UNF. Don't mix them up!

no offence ment to the guy but am i the only one who thinks his comments come accross as aggressive?

[m1tch]

Don't use COPPER!! It work hardens with the flaring - and with subsequent vibration - and cracks !! Use KUNIFER pipe. Slightly harder to make the flares - but last 'for ever'. Some brake pipes on later Minis are m10 x1 thread - other parts are 3/8" UNF. Don't mix them up!

no offence ment to the guy but am i the only one who thinks his comments come accross as aggressive?

I think he was just stressing a point, considering the braking system is kinda important lol

[Nightrain]

Not agressive it's just Roy's way lol he's been banging on about this for years..........

Just a couple of points he doesn't take into consideration, kunifer is still only about half as strong as the steel lines most manufacturer's use as standard !

Sorry roy but do you really think they'd be able to sell it, if it was crap !

Copper pipe is still has a pressure rating, which is about double what brake pipes are required to have.

[stormintrooper]

i was on about comments in other topics too but as i say no offence is ment to roy

just sumat iv wanted to ask before i acused someone of bein rude when they havent been

[MKSteve]

Don't use COPPER!! It work hardens with the flaring - and with subsequent vibration - and cracks !! Use KUNIFER pipe. Slightly harder to make the flares - but last 'for ever'. Some brake pipes on later Minis are m10 x1 thread - other parts are 3/8" UNF. Don't mix them up!

Thanks for the heads up. I had heard that kunifer was better so that was what I was going to get ebay

I was wondering tho. Does it's increased strength make it more difficult to work with? Bearing in mind this is my 1st attempt. And will I need to get better quality tools to be able to flare it?

Steve