Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Oil Cooler


  • Please log in to reply
37 replies to this topic

#31 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,836 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 24 June 2015 - 09:52 PM

Sorry, I made a typo, I meant to write Oil Cooler, not Oil Filter.

 

The Oil Filter remains in circuit at all times. (40 lashings to me).

 

If you ever recondition your engine if it's been fitted with an Oil Cooler, it is proper practice to bin the Oil Cooler and fit a new one that has had bungs fitted while in storage. The passage ways through them are 'fine' and cannot be cleaned properly and even if cleaned, cannot be checked. Remember, these are on the dirty oil side of the Filter.

 

I did run one (13 row) on the wife's Moke for about a year, along with an Oil Temp gauge. The Mokes are fitted with a pretty full on sump guard and there is no ventilation what so ever over the sump. The way these cars get driven (well, the way we drive them!), is very harsh especially with respect to Oil and Oil temps. It's not uncommon on an extended trip (7 000 - 10 000 km) for the Mokes to tip the scales at around the 1 200 kg fully laden. We drive them at speeds of around 100 - 115 km (3 900 - 4 100 RPM) for many days - 6 - 10 hours at a stretch - and then also spend around 7 - 14 days pretty much in 1st, 2nd and occasionally 3rd gears, so lots of load and very little air flow. Cooling systems are pushed hard as ambient temps can vary from 00 overnight (though we don't drive at night, it's not unusual to experience these temps for an hour or so first thing in the morning) to 400 during the day and we have even had a few days that have peaked at 530. Due to the rough terrain, the Drivetrains (including the gearbox) to cop a fair bit of 'impact' loading too. I would suggest that they Gearboxes (and Oil) experience harsher conditions and treatment that any race car.

 

So, what I found was that the Oil Temp very closely followed the Coolant Temp under just about all conditions (except at the long high speed runs), though it did lag it by 20 - 30 minutes (ie it took longer for the Oil to heat up when the Coolant did but took didn't take long for the Oil to cool to that of the Coolant), I don't recall ever seeing the Oil temp go hotter than about 150 hotter than the Coolant, but for 99.99% of the time, it was well within 50 of the Coolant. On the longer high speed runs, the Oil just ran too cool - from 60 to 720 and so after a few trip, I made a 'blind' to slip over the Oil Cooler.

 

After a year, the Oil Cooler began to leak (can't understand why), so I by-passed it. Oil Temps remained the similar as before only the warm up temp happen quicker, the cool down time took a bit longer and on the longer runs, the Oil Temp sat around the 85 - 900 mark, much happier.

 

<EDIT: I forget what the correct term is, but in regards to Oil, it is not nearly as thermally conductive as coolant (or indeed the Air). What I am getting at with this is for the same BTUs of heat, it will take longer to heat Oil and Coolant (or the Air) and likewise it takes longer to get that heat out of the Oil than would be the case with Coolant.

 

With that in mind, compare the area of the Coolant Heat Exchanger (Radiator) to that for the Oil and also to further put this in perspective, there is around 3 litres of of Coolant in the Cooling System, and we have around 5 litres of Oil, in the Lub System. On top of this, we also have a fan to force Air through the Coolant Heat Exchanger >


Edited by Moke Spider, 24 June 2015 - 10:12 PM.


#32 weswes

weswes

    Starting My Mini Up

  • TMF+ Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Location: US

Posted 25 June 2015 - 05:16 AM

It will always run through the oil filter no matter how you run the lines. The thermostat is just as stated above, like an "H". Meaning the top two arms of the "H" coming from the engine block and then to the oil filter housing assembly, and the bottom two legs connecting to the oil cooler fittings. The middle of the "H" is the thermostatic bypass port routing the oil from block to the filter assembly, or closing off at a set temperature to flow from the block to the oil cooler and then back to the oil filter (185 degrees F, 210 degrees F or whatever you ordered). The thermostat may fluctuate until the oil is at a constant fluid temp, but isn't that the point?
Please don't be like Chicken Little and Henny Penny and the rest of those birds to follow Foxy Loxy into his hole just to be eaten up! If you're engine requires a oil cooler assembly added, then do so! Respectfully speaking, I believe you may be mechanically inclined to do this modification and that you're smart enough to read your gauges and not blindly following others who don't know your engine build or your driving characteristics.
I have a hot running 1380 with a gnarly cam from APT Fast and I live in the North Carolina heat also I drive it like I stole it every day!

#33 jamesquintin

jamesquintin

    One Carb Or Two?

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,017 posts
  • Location: Harlow

Posted 25 June 2015 - 08:43 AM

If I bought the new Cooper MPI conversion, would I need to use the oil cooler..? Surely they wouldn't supply it if they didn't think the engine needed it?



#34 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,836 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 25 June 2015 - 09:10 AM

It's not as straight forward to fit an Oil Cooler to an MPI as they don't have the external Oil Feed Pipe like all other earlier engines did. You'd need to find a suitable sandwich take off to fit between the Oil Filter and the Block. The MPI didn't have an external Oil Cooler.

 

They did of course fit Oil Coolers to the Cooper S (though not at first) and then through ST offered a Blind for them as in their own words "there is a risk of over-cooling leading to sludging of the oil",

 

The Metro Turbo was also fitted with one, but this was an Oil to Water type heat exchanger, where it didn't 'vent' heat directly to atmosphere but to the Coolant. This was a sandwich type set up that fitted to the Oil Filter Head. This is a better set up, as long as the Cooling System has some added capacity!

 

<EDIT: I'd suggest before fitting an Oil Cooler on a best guess, fit an Oil Temp Gauge to see if it is warranted as over cooling of the Oil is not at all good. >


Edited by Moke Spider, 25 June 2015 - 09:13 AM.


#35 jamesquintin

jamesquintin

    One Carb Or Two?

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,017 posts
  • Location: Harlow

Posted 25 June 2015 - 09:24 AM

I have an oil temp gauge , but it never goes above 50...



#36 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,836 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 25 June 2015 - 09:57 AM

I have an oil temp gauge , but it never goes above 50...

 

I'd suggest that you don't need an Oil Cooler and that fitting one wouldn't be wise.



#37 spiguy

spiguy

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,537 posts
  • Location: UnderTheCar

Posted 25 June 2015 - 09:57 AM

Dunno about all this oil cooler stuff, but Moke - your description of 'Moking' sounds superb! I want to do that! :lol:



#38 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,836 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 25 June 2015 - 10:02 AM

Dunno about all this oil cooler stuff, but Moke - your description of 'Moking' sounds superb! I want to do that! :lol:

 

Sorry for going OT - have a look at the website, there's a link in my signature \/ - best fun you'll ever have - with your clothes on!






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users