37 replies to this topic

[rawky]

http://www.minispare...mp;tc=1#submenu

How about this as a middle ground? Sounds effective if it can let more oil flow round the system...

Rawky

[rozzer1275]

http://www.minispare...mp;tc=1#submenu

How about this as a middle ground? Sounds effective if it can let more oil flow round the system...

Rawky

this item is to replace the steel tube one on late minis which tend to leak.

I measured the oil temp on my 1380 the other day before and after a thrash

coolent temp 85 deg C
oil temp in sump 75 deg C
before and after thrash

there is a good artical on the mini spares site about it

[liirge]

For lots of short journeys - I agree - you don't need a cooler - but then , you don't need a 1380 engine either!
For hard driving a 1380 - I would absolutely have an oil cooler (I always did have in the past with decent engines) and the stat will just be unecessary expense - because the oil WILL be hot enough to need cooling!

I think you missed the point of the stat, The stat will let the oil get to temperature QUICKER, this is good as the longer your oil is cold the worse it is for the engine.

[rawky]

http://www.minispare...mp;tc=1#submenu

How about this as a middle ground? Sounds effective if it can let more oil flow round the system...

Rawky

this item is to replace the steel tube one on late minis which tend to leak.

I measured the oil temp on my 1380 the other day before and after a thrash

coolent temp 85 deg C
oil temp in sump 75 deg C
before and after thrash

there is a good artical on the mini spares site about it

So should I try the braided piping before an oil cooler? Mini Spares seem to think so......

[rozzer1275]

http://www.minispare...mp;tc=1#submenu

How about this as a middle ground? Sounds effective if it can let more oil flow round the system...

Rawky

this item is to replace the steel tube one on late minis which tend to leak.

I measured the oil temp on my 1380 the other day before and after a thrash

coolent temp 85 deg C
oil temp in sump 75 deg C
before and after thrash

there is a good artical on the mini spares site about it

So should I try the braided piping before an oil cooler? Mini Spares seem to think so......

if you have the late type pipe and it is leaking yer
if you have the early type pipe, it is fine

read this, make a lot of sense.

http://www.minispare...x?ty=ad&aid=341

[TrialsLife]

For lots of short journeys - I agree - you don't need a cooler - but then , you don't need a 1380 engine either!
For hard driving a 1380 - I would absolutely have an oil cooler (I always did have in the past with decent engines) and the stat will just be unecessary expense - because the oil WILL be hot enough to need cooling!

I go to work 5 days a week, thats my short journeys. I don't need a cooler.

On the weekend, I will occasionaly THRASH THE LIVING GUTS OUT OF IT. I don't need an oil cooler.


No, your wrong about the stat. Are you saying, that as soon as your engine starts its up to temperature? Whats that? No? Thought as much.

The stat will be set, to keep the oil at the correct oil temperature. By having it, with an oil cooler it helps the engine get up to temperature quicker.

[liirge]

For lots of short journeys - I agree - you don't need a cooler - but then , you don't need a 1380 engine either!
For hard driving a 1380 - I would absolutely have an oil cooler (I always did have in the past with decent engines) and the stat will just be unecessary expense - because the oil WILL be hot enough to need cooling!

I go to work 5 days a week, thats my short journeys. I don't need a cooler.

On the weekend, I will occasionaly THRASH THE LIVING GUTS OUT OF IT. I don't need an oil cooler.


No, your wrong about the stat. Are you saying, that as soon as your engine starts its up to temperature? Whats that? No? Thought as much.

The stat will be set, to keep the oil at the correct oil temperature. By having it, with an oil cooler it helps the engine get up to temperature quicker.

not just me who pointed that out!

[TrialsLife]

not just me who pointed that out!

Ha, I did notice you said that after I'd posted.

[liirge]

Just proves the point that clearly if you insist on running an oil cooler, the stat is a necessary part of it.

[nicksuth]

Oil Coolers

In the early days, many performance Series ‘A’ engine builders were almost paranoid about oil temperatures. Based on the sort of oils produced at the time, this was, perhaps, justified. If oil temperatures went just a shade too high, the engine’s bearings would disintegrate. It was in these sort of circumstances that oil coolers became standard wear on any race Series ‘A’ engine. However, modern, high quality oils have a higher temperature tolerance than was the case 10 to 15 years ago*. Synthetic oils have, by comparison, an extremely high temperature tolerance and s it is these oil improvements that have led to the oil cooler being less of a necessity. It doesn’t necessarily mean you can do without one, but it does mean that the typical Series ‘A’ engine up to about 90 hp or so, whether raced or not, doesn’t really need an oil cooler, so long as overheating of the coolant system is nowhere in sight.

Assuming you are starting with a typical, good quality 10-40 grade oil, the best power output in most instance occurs when oil temperature reaches 210 Deg F to 220 Deg F (100 Deg C to 105 Deg C). In reality it isn’t so much the oil temperature that allows the production of power, but the fact that the high temperatures cause viscosity to drop. Most good quality conventional oils will function at this temperature as long as mileage with the oil is limited. Of course, if temperatures go much above the 220 Deg F (105 Deg C) mark, there is the possibility that the oil will break down and cause a lubrication problem. Synthetic oils have the edge for two reasons; They have a lower viscosity to start with so less power is lost pumping or churning the oil and they have a much greater tolerance to overheating.

Whether or not a conventional cooler is used on a competition car, plumb in an oil temperature gauge to measure the sump temperature. Depending on the conditions prevailing on race day, the oil cooler should be blanked off so the temperature runs somewhere near the 200 Deg F (95 Deg C) mark. For race engines, 220 Deg F (105 Deg C) is usually the optimum oil temperature, if the oil temperature is regularly reaching 250 Deg F (120 Deg C) and above, it is recommended to fit an oil cooler (13 row is suggested with other engine builders recommending the use of oil temperature thermostat systems.

* Note - Book was written in 1985 *

The above was taken from “Tuning BL’s A-Series Engine”

Looking at the Owners Manual for the MPi it states that the Oil Temperature Gauge should “normally” sit between 90 Deg C and 120 Deg C (195 Deg F and 250 Deg F) with sustained “high speed” motoring causing it to rise to 150 Deg C (300 Deg F). If temperature rises above 150 Deg C (300 Deg F) you should slow down and drive gently until the temperature drops. This is based on the recommended lubricant of 10W-40 mineral oil.

Mine usually sits at about 115 Deg C (240 Deg F) but during continued running (motorway) on a warm day (i.e. ambient of about +25 Deg C (75 Deg F) it sits at around 125 Deg C to 130 Deg C (260 Deg F to 265 Deg F). This is within the “safety” margin as per the Rover Manual but seems high when reading Vizard’s book?

I think I will be considering a 13 row oil cooler and thermostat for future “summer” driving?

[Dusky]

What I don't get is how the thermostat works.
I always see coolers fitted between the oil filter and.Block banjo, if the thermostat is closed then there is no flow to the filter, right?
Sorry to bump an old thread, but knowledge is everything :)
Cheers

[Spider]

The Oil T'stat is a bit different. It doesn't block off flow, it just by-passes the Oil Filter. If you have a look at them, they have 4 ports on them.

 

Have to say, i strongly agree with Turbo Phil, an Oil Cooler is hardly ever needed, even for Racing.

[Dusky]

How is it bypassed the/where does it connect ?
I probably wont fit one on mine though, but it would be for my dads mini (race sumpguarded mini)

[Steve220]

It's in an H pattern. One side is connected to the engine and return, the other side is connected to the cooler. When oil gets to temperature it opens the stat and allows it to flow to the cooler. Simple design.

Edited by Steve220, 24 June 2015 - 01:48 PM.

[Dusky]

And the return is at the same part of the banjo then?

 

I wish/ I hope it's possible to run it through the oil filter all the time?