5 replies to this topic

[mickyh]

At last we have got the clutch off! lots of heat, effort, more heat, more effort!! I can now see that there is a lot of oil behind the clutch and it certainly looks fowled.

As we werent getting much drive this could be the issue causing the clutch slipping, however not sure if its worth removing the flywheel casing to look at the idler gear to be sure?

If not can I replace the crankshaft oil seal without taking the casing off, is just a case of tap it out tap it back in??

Also anybody why there is split pin in a hole in the bottom of the casing?? See picture.

Thanks

Edited by mickyh, 14 July 2009 - 10:06 PM.

[Jonny998cc]

dont worry mate its supposed to be there i wondered when i had mine off.

[Grayedout]

The split pin hole is to allow any oil that collects from a leaky seal, like the one you have, to drain away and not collect in the cover.

Whilst you have it this far apart then yes you should replace the seal. Just remove the C Washer off the end of the crank and the spacer and slowly pull the primary gear off the crank which will bring the seal with it

As a note, looking at the pictures, if the engine was rotated like this when you removed the clutch then you were very lucky that the C Washer did not fall out and jam the flywheel which would have meant you never getting it off in one piece!

You need to turn the crank through 180° so the C Washer is pointing down and cannot fall out !

[L400RAS]

You need to turn the crank through 180° so the C Washer is pointing down and cannot fall out !

Hi Grayedout,
How would you know if the C washer is pointing down, OR UP when the flywheel is on...? What you are meant to do is have to slot in the crank positioned horizontally, thus the C washer is on its site, again so wouldnt fall out.

Just remove the C Washer off the end of the crank and the spacer and slowly pull the primary gear off the crank which will bring the seal with it

To do this job best, you need the special tool, which hooks to the back of the primary gear. If you try to do this job with screwdrivers/ prybars you will inevitably damage the flywheel housing, as its only soft. Also, to fit the new seal, i definately suggest getting the proper fitting tool again - minispares. Put a small amount of engine oil on the tool to aid fitment.

Mickyh - i recommend when you buy the new seal, to order minispares own high revving version - its like £1 dear than standard, but far better quality.

Regards,
Ryan.

Edited by L400RAS, 15 July 2009 - 06:36 AM.

[Guess-Works.com]

You need to turn the crank through 180° so the C Washer is pointing down and cannot fall out !

Hi Grayedout,
How would you know if the C washer is pointing down, OR UP when the flywheel is on...? What you are meant to do is have to slot in the crank positioned horizontally, thus the C washer is on its site, again so wouldnt fall out.

The correct method is to put the crank in the TDC ( no 1 piston at top ) which means the C washer should be facing down, therefore no chance of falling out. This is how they are original built. However, since it's quite likely that at some stage in the engines life the C washer has been removed, you are then reliant on the mechanic who did it, putting the C washer back in its correct orientation... This is why the 'Horizontal' method is now the preferred position, there is still a danger that the C washer could slip when in this position.

Even if the C washer does drop it's still possible to remove the clutch etc, as all it does is prevent the clutch plate from being withdrawn. What you have to do is dissaseble the flywheel/clutch on the crank and withdraw one piece at a time so it's not the end of the world.

[Nightrain]

The correct method is to put the crank in the TDC ( no 1 piston at top ) which means the C washer should be facing down, therefore no chance of falling out.

So it pointing up, there's every chance it WILL fall out if it's pointing down