I have no idea why they did that in the way they did, well, i do hava an idea, but its no so much harder to do it better.
I machined the outer section of the MPi pully to take one of thier 4" center universal wheels. I made sure that only enough metal was removed from the pulley so that the trigger wheel sat proud 0.5mm. I then drilled and tapped four holes 9 teeth apart each and fitted M5 low head cap head screws. Positioning of the gap was much the same as described in there guide, but you only need to tighten down the four screws, and I recomend the use of locktite too.
Im not sure how you can use a locktab when there is no posative location onto the trigger wheel, fine if the trigger wheel is doweled to the pulley but the locktab is not located on the trigger wheel. That bolt WILL work loose, more so with the reduced thread engagement of the original bolt. They only say use a longer bolt if apropriate, they should be demanding that the bolt is longer!
The only reason I think they made this kit in the way they did, is that is a 'bolt on' affair. I would strongly recommend that you remove the pulley and have it machined, after all, its nearly off anyway. The only thing with that is finding some one to do the machining and that takes time. Im sure for the £20 of the universal 4" center wheel that the machining of the pulley wont be much more than £20, which is much the same price as the engine specific wheel they sell.
Do not forget that the MPI trigger pattern is specific to Rover, it is not just 1 missing tooth, its four and they are not equaly spaced. You need to be sure you know exactly how to set it up!!
Sprocket, a man with experience in this field