
Mable's Makeover
#61
Posted 21 February 2010 - 11:19 PM
Andy
#62
Posted 22 February 2010 - 10:01 AM
Thanks Andy! Making slow progress really...who said I would have it finished by August? Hmm, not a cat in hells chance. Tell you what though, I have had some trouble along the way, but how hard is it getting those plugs in the subframe that sit behind the rubber cones? It took me about an hour! lolYour builds coming along really well, I re-used my old rubber cones too, I was told that the old rubber cones are actually better than the new ones that you can get today, something about the quality of the rubber they used back then, looking forward to seeing it back on it's feet again
Andy
Ahh, I agree with the quality on parts, but there are a lot of immitation parts availble now, not good. Especially if you don't know the difference until it's too late! . Even the panels seem to be of thinner or cheaper quality, from reading on the forum. I just wish I could get the springs now whilst I am ready for them.
The welder is back tomorrow, just to do a patch to the left of the passenger rear arch, and one patch just next to fresh air vent.
I can't wait to get it on the road, a long way off yet. I have started to look for a 1275 for her, I need to get rid of the 998 too.
#63
Posted 22 February 2010 - 11:08 AM
I've just stripped all the gunk & old paint off the underside of my boot, will hopefully have it looking like yours in a few months time

#64
Posted 22 February 2010 - 12:54 PM
The underside looks fantastic, what gun/compressor are you using?
I've just stripped all the gunk & old paint off the underside of my boot, will hopefully have it looking like yours in a few months time
Glad you think so cheers Analogue. I used a 1.5hp dodgy compressor from a car boot! Cost me 20 sheets. To be honest I dont think it's up to the job of spraying the whole car. It has the top-up cap missing and air filter! Can just imagine stopping after every few strokes for it to top up with air! But it went through 4 litres of TetraSchutz in no-time! Did a top job on the underside though. Picked up a Schutz gun from a local shop for £15. It's messy stuff to get on, just make sure you masked up well, aswell as yourself! I decided to top it up at the back yesterday, upside-down! I come out from underneath like a Blackjack!
It's got to be one of the hardest physical jobs stripping back the whole underside. My arms were aching after a weekend of it! Tis very worth it once its painted and schutzed though. I have prepper the boot (welded filled and sanded) so just needs spraying!
#65
Posted 23 February 2010 - 06:21 PM
Got the rubber cones and Hi-Lo's in, and they look mint. Would loko better if it wasnt for the messy copper grease! Will clean up and post piccies later...
Shopping time. Got me 5ltr of Thinners, 1ltr of Primer, and 1ltr of Activator (thats all they had). Going to NorthWestMinis tomorrow, to get my rear brake bits! I need 2 cylinders, springs, maybe the adjusters and maybe some superfins. Does anyone know the REAL difference between Minifins and Superfins, apart from the price difference??? If it's quality, can anyone be specific?
#66
Posted 28 February 2010 - 06:14 PM
Nevermind, I decided to go with some fins. They are much lighter than the standard drums, and look mint.
So I bought a few things;
2x Brake Cylinders, gaskets and clips
2x Brake adjuster screws
Shoes
Springs
2x Handbrake arm rubber boots
Drum to Drum handbrake cable
Front and rear braided brake hoses
2x Drum screws
2x Handbrake quadrants and pins
Oh yeah and a set of these;
Can anyone tell me if I have built these up correctly? I noticed by pulling the handbrake cable arm, only one side of the cylinder pushes a shoe outwards. Is this right, or should it push both shoes outwards???I'm sure I have put the handbrake arms in wrong, but whichever way they look wrong! The manual and other pictures sure don't help with this...!
Edited by Stupot_1982, 03 November 2014 - 03:42 PM.
#67
Posted 01 March 2010 - 07:35 PM
|
Bump
#68
Posted 01 March 2010 - 07:36 PM
#69
Posted 01 March 2010 - 08:16 PM
I just want to know if I have got things the right way round on my backplates. pictures going up later of built up subframe...
#70
Posted 01 March 2010 - 08:40 PM
Oh sorry, my mistakeI thought I had asked enough questions to bump this page...whilst I didn't get many replies!
I just want to know if I have got things the right way round on my backplates. pictures going up later of built up subframe...

#71
Posted 01 March 2010 - 09:45 PM
pictures of almost built up subframe;
Inside of subby;
picture of subby with brakes on, jsut noticed one of the Hi=Lo's had slipped out...
Test fitted minifins;
Edited by Stupot_1982, 03 November 2014 - 03:43 PM.
#72
Posted 02 March 2010 - 01:13 AM
great job.
#73
Posted 13 March 2010 - 10:51 AM

Just need to torque the hub nuts and backplate nuts up, then bang on the subby. Can't wait for that. I'm not sure wether to get the shell painted inside before I do this...Should be ok as long as I mask properly though right? If only my torque wrench wasn't seized up! Great.
Edited by Stupot_1982, 13 March 2010 - 10:52 AM.
#74
Posted 26 September 2011 - 07:59 AM

Got the rear subframe on with the exception of the brake line and bias I will be fitting. Had a major thing what I want to do in terms of power, so after spending a loooong time researching I figured I wanted to go all out with a non standard engine, a C18XE,... well at least it's still British!

Need to source a subby or at least think about sorting a custom one out. Had inspiration from the Freak!
#75
Posted 26 September 2011 - 11:31 AM
Just thought I would share these goodies I bought, just because they were cheap!
The standard Rover Studio comes with 2 dial, but I want a 3 dial. Will not use the casing for it though and go for a sweet dash, not walnut though, I'm not keen.
Paid 40.00 for the clocks
![]()
Paid 30.00 for the lights...not bad methinks
Nice lights!

1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users