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SPi idle problems


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#31 Sprocket

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Posted 19 September 2005 - 06:19 PM

mini has done 97,000 but is in excellent condition. 
head been skimmed and new gasket fitted. i have had the car since 60,000 miles (4 years)
spoke to Rover today and they have now found a fault on the ecu, too much vacum going through should be 20 but trying to run at 40. they are trying to find out if they can bypass it.

Don't quite understand what this means. :) :teehee: 20 what and 40 what

The ECU MAP sensor reads the manifold vacuum, at idle the sensor should read something like 550 millibar. If at idle it reads 200mbar then there is either an air leak, fuel in the map sensor liquid locking it( See previous post) or the MAP sensor is goosed and unfortunetly a new ECU.

#32 ruby mini

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 08:33 PM

HI there your be glad to know the Mini is back on the road, after 4 weeks in the Rover garage tey have sorted it.
New map censor in ECU fitted, a stepper motor seemed to be the major problem. after having the head skimmed, its now flying!!!!!

#33 Sprocket

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 09:51 PM

Just out of interest, how much did they charge you for the whole thing once fixed?

#34 ruby mini

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Posted 08 October 2005 - 06:59 AM

Just out of interest, how much did they charge you for the whole thing once fixed?

After skimming the head and replacing the Map sensor and part of the injection system with the stopper motor and a few other bits and pieces £418

#35 yasan39

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 03:15 AM

You do not adjust the idle unless you have a diagnostic computer to test the idle air and stepper are tuned correctly. This cannot be done with out it. However the ECU will try and maintain an idle of 850rpm once it has been tuned. If the idle screw has been adjusted without the diagnostic, the system will be out of tune and the stepper will be in the wrong possition and the ECU can get lost, wich may lead to eratic idle. But before you go find a garage with the diagnostic tools try the following

When was the oxygen sensor last changed. If it has been some time or never then change it. Check all the vacuum pipes for splits and security. The thin black ones particularly the two that come off the back of the inlet manifold very close to the bulkhead. The elbows on these are notorious for splitting.

Check that the throttle cable is indexed properly. With the engine off but the ignition on, move the throttle cam to full throttle( do not use the pedal to do this) If you watch the stepper motor you will see it move into possition, release the throttle and check what is called the lost motion link, that it is adjusted correctly. There should be equal spacing between the prongs of this, adjust the throttle cable to correct if required. Turn off the ignition.

Check or change the above before going deeper into the problem

When ever the ignition is turned off the stepper should motor to a predetermined number of steps so the throttle is at a possition to alow the engine to start from cold, you can hear a clicking noise in the engine bay when the igniton is turned off, this is the stepper setting itself for the next time the engine is started. Once the engine is started the stepper reduces the steps as the engine warms up. Once at temperature the stepper will try and achieve 850 RPM. If there is a fault in the system the stepper may fluctuate tracking the idle to 850rpm. The stepper motor can also be faulty. There are four coils within the stepper motor and if one is not working, erratic idle could be a symptom.

The only other thing to considder, particularly if the engine has a flat spot, bucks violently as the accelerator is depressed when cold, is the PTC heater in the bottom of the manifold. Mine was duff and ended up replacing the whole injection manifold system as you can't get the parts seperate.( same goes for the stepper and injector)

If you need pictures or any other information let me know. See how you get on with the items at the top.



#36 yasan39

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 03:24 AM

what is the code reader for rover mini spi

and like to see the pic


good day to u


this is my e-mail
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#37 cooperspi

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 08:02 AM

Before I do anything with my SPi now I try STP injection system cleaner (black bottle £4.99). There have been a couple of times when I've had rough running as described and both the AA man and local garage said the ECU needed replacing!! But I tried injection cleaner and this solved the problem!

I would also check the map sensor pipes for blockages. Mine had been melted once and caused a rough start.

Only after these two easy fixes should you start thinking sensors and diagnostics.

#38 cooperspi

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 08:11 AM

Thinking about it this sounds quite similar to my current problem. I think I have traced this to a faulty fuel pump (although I have note yet replaced it). It can run for minutes or for just seconds and there doesn't seem to be any logic to it. Sometimes you think cold is helping, sometimes the heat of the sun appears to make it run.

Have a listen for the whine of the pump and see if its dying just before the stall... if it is it could be a poor connection or the pump itself.

Take a look at my other post if you think it could be the pump.

Oh and injection is worth sticking with. It gets a bad name because people don't understand it, and carb owners tell you to replace this sensor then that when sometimes simple faults can easily be fixed!! I've had 3 years of faultless running up until now and it eats standard Mpis and 1275 carbs for breakfast!

#39 yasan39

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 05:11 PM

what is the best code reader for rover mini spi


nice day 2 u

#40 yasan39

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 05:49 PM

What is the coed reader for mini?
If u can send me the pictures



good day 2 u

#41 mintlawmaisie1994

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 05:26 PM

Hi Sprocket


I'm troubleshooting starting problems in my SPI and was trying to index the throttle like you describe above. I can't see how adjusting the throttle cable will affect the lost motion link. Using the throttle cam to move the throttle to full open position carries the lost motion bit with it and the only way seems to be to adjust the screw, which in another thread we were warned not to touch. The stepper motor clicks after I turn off the ignition and the wee plunger moves out to touch the face of the adjustment screw bracket, so it seems to be doing something right at least.

Sorry if it's a dumb question but I just can't see how to do it

Gav




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