I haven't mentioned it before as I asume that you would check these first( :nugget: Assumption is the muther of all @#$& ups)
Check all the basics, HT leads, spark plugs gapped, dizzy cap and rotor arm are all in good serviceble condition, then check the vacuum pipes for splits. If these parts are of an unknown age/ condition and have not been changed recently, then they are fairly cheep to replace, then these are eliminated, though it can be uneconomical to throw parts at the engine unless they are suspect.
If this has still not rectified the problem, then look at the injection system. as above.
I've found that if the diagnostic shows no fault, the mechanic will do nothing. Because its electronic and people don't understand how the system controls the fueling and ignition, particularly the mechanic( not all, but it's more often than not these days), they believe what the computer tells them and if it says its ok, well then it must be, ha, how wrong can they be. Sensors can be out of calibration but not faulty, throttle linkages can be stiff and the PTC heater can be open circuit yet the ECU fill not think there is a fault. If the ECU was a person you would say it was a bit thick

I bought my own diagnostic as I do not trust a mechanic to find the problem. The mentality of most mechanics is that if you are going to them for help then you know less than them, which is not always the case( what was that advert on tv recently where the guy said that if people don't know whats wrong with the engine and get ripped of then its not his problem) but you have to go to them as they have the expensive tools to tell them that the engine is running fine when it clearly is not


How do I pin a post, I think I shall write a topic on what to check on SPI systems running rough. Though I am no expert and not a mechanic, I have gathered a great deal of knowledge trying to fix mine, so if I can help then I will.