SPi idle problems
#16
Posted 16 September 2005 - 07:10 PM
I haven't mentioned it before as I asume that you would check these first( :nugget: Assumption is the muther of all @#$& ups)
Check all the basics, HT leads, spark plugs gapped, dizzy cap and rotor arm are all in good serviceble condition, then check the vacuum pipes for splits. If these parts are of an unknown age/ condition and have not been changed recently, then they are fairly cheep to replace, then these are eliminated, though it can be uneconomical to throw parts at the engine unless they are suspect.
If this has still not rectified the problem, then look at the injection system. as above.
I've found that if the diagnostic shows no fault, the mechanic will do nothing. Because its electronic and people don't understand how the system controls the fueling and ignition, particularly the mechanic( not all, but it's more often than not these days), they believe what the computer tells them and if it says its ok, well then it must be, ha, how wrong can they be. Sensors can be out of calibration but not faulty, throttle linkages can be stiff and the PTC heater can be open circuit yet the ECU fill not think there is a fault. If the ECU was a person you would say it was a bit thick yet it's supposed to be this all singing and dancing computer that controls everything and tells you everything. how many people know there is an electric heater in the bottom of the inlet manifold?
I bought my own diagnostic as I do not trust a mechanic to find the problem. The mentality of most mechanics is that if you are going to them for help then you know less than them, which is not always the case( what was that advert on tv recently where the guy said that if people don't know whats wrong with the engine and get ripped of then its not his problem) but you have to go to them as they have the expensive tools to tell them that the engine is running fine when it clearly is not
How do I pin a post, I think I shall write a topic on what to check on SPI systems running rough. Though I am no expert and not a mechanic, I have gathered a great deal of knowledge trying to fix mine, so if I can help then I will.
#17
Posted 16 September 2005 - 07:13 PM
When you finaly get to the bottom of the problem then post it up, the symptoms the actual fault and how to correct it. The more information that is documented the easier it will become for others to fix theirs through the tears of othersNot sure how much Rover are charging, but they have tried lots of different parts only charging if the new part works.
#18
Posted 16 September 2005 - 07:27 PM
I got this from a guy that worked at the factory. I didn't know the guy so take the information as you wish, but will say that even with the fuel trap I suffered this problem.
Oh and change the oxygen sensor
#19
Posted 18 September 2005 - 05:06 PM
We were also told to try taking the CAT off and using a link pipe as the CAT may have collapsed..
#20
Posted 18 September 2005 - 05:08 PM
#21
Posted 18 September 2005 - 07:46 PM
You have read the post above the post above the post aboveRover have now told us that they will check the timimg chain tomorrow as it is sometimes back firing through the injection system
#22
Posted 18 September 2005 - 07:47 PM
#23
Posted 18 September 2005 - 07:50 PM
#24
Posted 18 September 2005 - 07:51 PM
#25
Posted 18 September 2005 - 07:53 PM
#26
Posted 18 September 2005 - 07:53 PM
#27
Posted 18 September 2005 - 07:56 PM
#29
Posted 18 September 2005 - 10:20 PM
An Excellent Idea Mini Sprocket!I think I shall write a topic on what to check on SPI systems running rough
#30
Posted 19 September 2005 - 05:53 PM
head been skimmed and new gasket fitted. i have had the car since 60,000 miles (4 years)
spoke to Rover today and they have now found a fault on the ecu, too much vacum going through should be 20 but trying to run at 40. they are trying to find out if they can bypass it.
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