11 replies to this topic

[dlloyd]

Model: Sprite
Year: 1995/96 (N reg)
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):

I've bought a new set of wheels for my Mini (actually my mum's). They're 12x5 deepdish Superlites with Yoko A539 tyres.

They look good but are rubbing against the front of the arch on the driver's side when the wheels are fully locked. The other side is fine. The problem with the tyres rubbing against the bodywork/arch was occurring a while back with the original wheels (it's been off the road for over a year so I'd forgotten about this).

Looking at the car, the driver's side is sitting lower than the passenger side, by a couple of centimeters (I'll measure the exact height when I get home).

Rather than trim metal from the wing, I'd like to sort out the ride height. I'm guessing a component of the suspension could do with adjustment or replacement.

Are Hi-Los the answer?






Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem?

Just the wheels.

[Pauly]

If you want to adjust ride height to what you like then hilos are your answer, but just fitting new suspension cones would solve your problem.

Paul.

Edited by Pauly, 29 June 2009 - 03:47 PM.

[Cooperman]

You get a suspension cone compressor tool (also known as a 'tower tool') and compress the front cone. Lift the upper arm slightly and remove the small rubber down-stop. Let the upper arm drop and continue to compress until you can lift/prise the aluminium trumpet out.
At the bottom of the trumpet is the suspension ball which sits into a plastic cup in the upper arm. Check to make sure the cup has not split. If it has, that's the cause of the low ride height. If not, it'll be the cone has settled with time. To correct this you punch the ball out of the trumpet taking care not to breakl the trumpet, which is made from cast aluminium. If it doesn't eant to come out, heat it up.
Then you add washers under the ball seating with the trumpet. The ratio of washer thickenss to height difference is 1:5 (note the rear is 1:8). So to raise the height 0.50" you put 0.10" of washer thickness in.
Measure each side before you start from wheel centre to wheel arch and use the 5:1 raqtio to correct each side.
Alternatively, just fit Hi-Lo's as replacements for the alloy trumpets. They are so simple to set.

[dlloyd]

Cheers for that... I measured the gap between the arches and the wheels.

The front driver's side measures 4.8 cm
The front passenger's side measures 6.5 cm
The rear driver's side measures 6.5 cm
The rear passenger's side measures 6 cm

Is there a standard distance the wheel should be from the arch?

(I'll have a look for parts and ask about their suitability later)

[dlloyd]

Suspension cone compressor

http://www.minispare.....E COMPRESSO...

£15.19 + VAT

Cones:

http://www.minispeed...c...&id=fam3968

Is that £31.99 +VAT for each wheel?

[Cooperman]

Those dimensions do look a bit odd. The front left is high and the rear right is also high, which, in theory, can't be unless the shell or sub-frames are twisted.
Drive it backwards and forwards and measure again.
I can't find the nominal heights as per manufacturers data sheets. You need the fronts to be the same, the rears to be the same and the sills to be horizontal.
I just measured our 1986 Mayfair which has 12" wheels and 167/60 Yoko tyres, and it's 12.5" from wheel centre to wheel arch flange at both front & rear on both sides. That's boby wheel arch flange, not wheel arch extension flange.
My 1964 car is raised a bit as it's a rally car, so no point in measuring that one.

[icklemini]

I measured the gap between the arches and the wheels.

this the metal seam or the plastic arch?

Measure from floor to sill trim and go from there.

Sounds like your front drivers side cone has gone, nothing unusual in that as they tend to last no more than 10 years. especially if the car only has the driver in it most of the time..

two new cones needed (one each side at the front), would be worth checking replacing the knuckles whilst you are in there... and checking the state of the top arms.

[dlloyd]

The measurements I gave were to the plastic arch. It's difficult to get past that to measure to the metal.

The car's been backed off the drive and driven back onto it since the wheels were changed, and no more than that. It's stuck behind a couple of other cars at the moment, so I haven't changed its position since the first post in this thread.

I'm going to put the old front wheels on the car for the time being tonight... is there anything obvious to look for when the wheels are off to check for wear on the suspension?

[maph2]

although your mini is only 13-14 years old, the rubber cones on the drivers side could well be past their best - to point of collapsing. hilos wouldn't cure that

Edited by maph2, 30 June 2009 - 02:20 PM.

[Pauly]

On the rear you got the extra weight of the fuel tank on the passenger side thats why its slightly lower, also the ride height wont be absolutly bob on your going to have about 2/3mm difference.

[dlloyd]

With the wheels off, of course the cones weren't visible.

There's a fair amount of surface rust back there, including on the upper suspension arms, and the knuckles (the bits connected to the bottom of the trumpets, right?) are in need of replacement, the rubber on them has perished.

On the drivers side, the upper suspension arm (if I have my terminology right) has visibly been hitting off the bump stop more than on the passengers side.

There's some (not much) surface corrosion on the shock absorbers... is that normal?

[bmcecosse]

It's 'normal' but obviously not ideal! Either fit new cones - or raise the car with washers. And get some new decent dampers front and back. I had Gmax - which were excellent value for money.

Edited by bmcecosse, 30 June 2009 - 10:59 PM.