9 replies to this topic

[Alexandre34]

Hi !

Is it possible to remove the sandard Spi flywheel and it's sensor system to use a non verto flywheel which offers a large choice of clutch plates, disc etc...

The problem is that I want to retain the standart Spi management system.

I think that it should possible to place a sensor (the std one or another one) in front of a toothed crank pulley, but I still have not seen such a kit for the Spi Mini.

it will be nice if anyone could help me with it's knowledge about this, because in France it's a hard to get info.

Cheers.

[KLAS]

there are kits that have a 36-1 pattern, just remove one more tooth at the right place and it will work.

but why do you think you have to use the older clutch? the friction plates can be used with the verto clutch, too. the verto pressure plate can handle a lot of torque. or do you need a ultralight setup?

[Alexandre34]

Thanks for your answer Klas, in fact I'm looking for an ultralight setup for my rally car:







I'm also interested by having the choice of different pressure plates to try,as in comparison, with the fuel injected flywheel we don't have a lot of choice it is possible to use a Metro Turbo plate with some mods to the reluctor ring and that's all.

PS: I've seen your UMS and I'm curious about it but it seems still complicated to me...

[KLAS]

nice car

yes, the verto isn't the best regarding differend parts. even if you could find them the verto still weights a lot more. so if you need the ultralight setup to get the best engine acceleration you have hardly any other choice but using the older clutch.

you can buy a 36-1 trigger kit and remove another tooth, or you can make it yourself, like mine

i used it with a MegaJoltLiteJunior ignition controller, but is easily modified to give the SPi trigger signal.

our UMS is quite easy to handle, after you get used to it. if you never used a free programmable ecu before its a bit challenging i admit, especially with modified engines.
if you join the IMM this year you may have a look and talk to us. at least one of us will be there

Edited by KLAS, 01 June 2009 - 06:35 PM.

[Sprocket]

Jackman runs this trigger set up, I set it up for him, as does another club member. I am now not keen on any trigger wheel that is fixed with the pulley bolt since mine moved and retarded the ignition by nearly 30 degrees.

The only real advice I would give is make the trigger wheel adjustable and use a fixed sensor bracket, and then adjust the air gap from sensor to tooth to <1mm it makes life so much easier to set it up correctly. As said previously you need to remove one other tooth directly oposite. You can see that in the picture below

Such trigger set ups are easily achieved like the one pictured below and available from here http://trigger-wheel...ore/index1.html The pulley was machined down so the trigger wheel would fit and sit just a little proud, the bolts then clamp the wheel onto the pulley. I used three bolts, I didn't like the idea of only two bolts.

[Alexandre34]

Thanks for your help and infos Klas and Sprocket, I keep an eye on your UMS Klas, even if it seems complicated to me.

The UMS is very interesting because it opens a new world in terms of perfomance for EFI Minis, so I think that in a near future I will have to deal with it, nothing is impossible when you really want it.

I was in Brighton last month and I will go to the IMM this summer and I will be more than happy to meet you.

Ok for the adjustable pulley and the fixed bracket, but can you tell me which sensor should I use with this setup, a standard one or one from another car ?

Many thanks.

[Sprocket]

Thanks for your help and infos Klas and Sprocket, I keep an eye on your UMS Klas, even if it seems complicated to me.

The UMS is very interesting because it opens a new world in terms of perfomance for EFI Minis, so I think that in a near future I will have to deal with it, nothing is impossible when you really want it.

I was in Brighton last month and I will go to the IMM this summer and I will be more than happy to meet you.

Ok for the adjustable pulley and the fixed bracket, but can you tell me which sensor should I use with this setup, a standard one or one from another car ?

Many thanks.

Any Variable Reluctance (VR) two wire sensor should do the job. The Ford sensors are popular and common The pins for the ECU and sensor connector are available at several places and you need to use screened cable with the screen grounded at one end only

I used a ford Fiesta crank sensor and fabricated a bracket, but this is not the only way to mount the sensor

[Alexandre34]

Many thanks for the infos.

I have now all the good informations to do the the job,

I think that I will order all what I need from Trigger wheels as they seem to have all the components.

Thanks a lot Sprocket.

[Sprocket]

When you set up the trigger, set the engine to TDC on number one cylinder, then adjust the trigger wheel so that the sensor is dead center on the gap of one of the missing teeth. Again make sure the missing teeth are direct (180 degrees) oposite each other. job done

[Alexandre34]

When you set up the trigger, set the engine to TDC on number one cylinder, then adjust the trigger wheel so that the sensor is dead center on the gap of one of the missing teeth. Again make sure the missing teeth are direct (180 degrees) oposite each other. job done

Many thanks for the details, it's good to have you here