5 replies to this topic

[blackbelt1990]

1992 Rover SPi Cooper

Hellow all...

Started trying to take the exhaust manifold off my Cooper the other day, managed to unplug everything, wires, air filter, water pipes but time was running out so I put the bits back together and moved on.

Anyway, now its a few weeks later and the car won't start now, first time I've tried it since.

When you turn the ignition all the way on, stepper motor sounds as normal but there's a clicking from the engine bay, like when an idicator's blown. It's coming from the ECU relay, and somewhere around the air filter.

So I bought a 2nd hand relay today, from a reliable source, which hasn't solved the problem.

When you try and turn the engine on the key, the Rev Counter goes mad and the engine makes the same noise as if the starter's slipping, but it's not coming from the starter.

My Crypton isn't fixed yet so I can't plug it in, can anyone help me out with their brain pleeease? lol

Thanksssssss

Ryan

[minicooper1.3i]

Sounds like your battery is a bit dudd to me. On the pre-engaged starter motors (which yours should have), the solenoid on the motor makes a clicking sound without engaging the actual motor. You may also find that the horn, lights etc still work, but don't forget that the starter motor draws an awful amount of juice from the battery.

I had this on two of my injection cars. Even jump starting didn't work, but that was becaus the jump leads were from poundstretcher and made from bell wire .

Either put the battery on to charge overnight and try it again in the morning, or put a test meter across the terminals and read the voltage before and during attempting to start. It should be around 14V off load and drop a few volts on load.

[BIG-DAVE]

Sounds like your battery is a bit dudd to me. On the pre-engaged starter motors (which yours should have), the solenoid on the motor makes a clicking sound without engaging the actual motor. You may also find that the horn, lights etc still work, but don't forget that the starter motor draws an awful amount of juice from the battery.

I had this on two of my injection cars. Even jump starting didn't work, but that was becaus the jump leads were from poundstretcher and made from bell wire .

Either put the battery on to charge overnight and try it again in the morning, or put a test meter across the terminals and read the voltage before and during attempting to start. It should be around 14V off load and drop a few volts on load.

im having the same problem with my 96 sidewalk spi, it is the battery either giver your battery a full charge over night or get a new battery i done this and it started first turn of the key. hope this helps
let us know how ya get on
Dave

[powermadcoop]

the rev counter wouldnt bounce around though would it if the battery was flat?

[blackbelt1990]

Well... i've suprised myself...

battery fully charged = car starts an runs!

wow...

Thanks

[powermadcoop]

i stand corrected