723 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

Only A"-" have dipstick tubes. A+ dipsticks fit straight in the block, and tend to leak a bit of oil as a result.

 

Steve,

 

What clutch diaphragm or you running? If you get the spring itself dead flat (the most it can deflect, so  maximum clamping force) when it's fully assembled, you won't have to push it over centre when operating the clutch, so it's kinder to your crank thrusts as well. Thought it might be mentioning as you tend to be very thorough& didn't mention much on the clutch assembly. It's not critical, but worth the effort with something beefier than the standard item.

 

You might want to think about painting the gear & transfer casings while you have the chance too, I wish I'd done mine.

[stevede]

 

Do all blocks have a dip stick tube? I'm sure my dipstick just sits on the hole in the block ( which is worrying)!

 

 

The top of the dip stick hole on the A+ sits higher in the casting so no tube needed. The dipsticks however, are the same length so I  shall be using the stainless Smiffy's one I have in the old engine.

[stevede]

Nice work Steve, a masterclass on how to build an engine at home.

 

Thanks Shifty

 

I remember a Jamie Oliver "students" cooking program a while back, where the diners at a banquet said how delicious the food was. Jamie came back with "wait 36 hours and then tell me it's good"!

 

On that basis, I'll wait till it fires up, and continues to run without pouring oil or making strange noises, (other than the normal "strange" noises from an A series).

 

I keep going over in my mind that it's all gone too well, and on that basis, must have missed something. - We'll wait and see. Hopefully not.

 

Regards

 

Steve

[stevede]

Only A"-" have dipstick tubes. A+ dipsticks fit straight in the block, and tend to leak a bit of oil as a result.

 

Steve,

 

What clutch diaphragm or you running? If you get the spring itself dead flat (the most it can deflect, so  maximum clamping force) when it's fully assembled, you won't have to push it over centre when operating the clutch, so it's kinder to your crank thrusts as well. Thought it might be mentioning as you tend to be very thorough& didn't mention much on the clutch assembly. It's not critical, but worth the effort with something beefier than the standard item.

 

You might want to think about painting the gear & transfer casings while you have the chance too, I wish I'd done mine.

 

 

Hi Ethel, thanks for your reply.

 

I'm running an orange diaphragm, with an up-rated centre. I'm interested in how I can check or modify to get the effect you describe as one of the concerns I had was the weight of the heavier clutch. The expected power of the unit suggested I needed to get something beefier but If I can keep clamping pressure whilst gaining a slightly lighter pedal, that would be a bonus.

 

How would I check / measure, and what would I do to adjust if required? I'm guessing it will have something to do with adjusting the spacers that came with the lightened flywheel?

 

On the alloy casings. I didn't want to paint them, but I am planning on brushing some clear lacquer on them, and on the exposed "non painted" block parts to maintain the look. I thought this easier that spraying them with lacquer pre-build, and then scratching it during the work. 

 

Regards

 

Steve

[Ethel]

Sounds like a plan with the  lacquer, I've developed a fetish for wheel silver on my alloy bits 

 

Minimania has a good write up on the clutch tweaking. You could hold the cover compressed with some chunky bar and clamps, or even the weight of a Mini lowered on a jack.

 

Thinking about it, I got the theory a tad wrong, when the spring is flat all its stress will be held internally, so the pressure fed back to the pedal, and on your crank thrusts will be minimal. The initial pedal pressure might increase a bit, but the feel should be better with the more pronounced transition as the clutch disengages.

[stevede]

Just had a look at that link, thanks Ethel.

 

Interesting reading, but given that it means dismantling and the machining of the back plate, even though I have access to the machinery to do it, I'm going to give it a miss for now.

 

I will bear in mind however, if I encounter any problems once I have used it for a little while.

 

Regards

 

Steve

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Do all blocks have a dip stick tube? I'm sure my dipstick just sits on the hole in the block ( which is worrying)!

 
The top of the dip stick hole on the A+ sits higher in the casting so no tube needed. The dipsticks however, are the same length so I  shall be using the stainless Smiffy's one I have in the old engine.

Thanks both

[cradley-heathen]

i like the use of the surface grinder to reface of the head, my friends place has one that i have put to this use before, the finish you can achieve with it is incredible, very pretty, shame it doesnt stay like that for long though!

 

excellent work on this engine build, it looks great, im very jealous, wich i had the time/money to be building mine up, house renovation and impending wedding have put paid to that lol!

 

keep it up!

[stevede]

Hi All, and time for another update

 

Had to get the megajolt ring back in place , and tidy up the sensor bracket a little. I was going to do a different one, but as they say, "if it aint broke"

 

 

 

 

 

Clutch & breather in place. I do like DSN quality

 

 

 

Head on

 

 

 

Rockers - These will prove to be a pain

 

 

 

Now I have the new roller door on the garage, I can use a ceiling mounted lift rather than a hoist. We toyed with the idea of a box section beam and some others. In the end, we drilled right through the ceiling, the wooden joist, and put a threaded bar with a lift hook. The top is in my office above the garage so not really an issue.

 

Out with the old

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spot the difference

 

 

 

I thought I would have to do a lot of work in the engine bay, but a clean up using de-greaser and a hose and I was pleasantly surprised.

 

 

A bit of playing around with the exhaust to remove the manifold from the pipe. The engine came out with it on, but no way it was going back in.

 

Ready to lift - Note the naff rocker cover. That's a story for later.

 

 

 

 

 

And up we go

 

 

 

And we're in 

 

 

 

Earth strap was one of the first jobs, in case I forgot

 

 

 

Drilled the thermostat as I have lost the bypass

 

 

 

Took the plugs out and spun over on the starter to gain oil pressure. No joy    Oil was coming out of the pressure pipe, but here was only going to be one thing for it, and that was to fire it up and see.

 

Fitted the old 1 1/2 carb as I knew that worked. Hit the start button and it fired instantly. The oil light went out and we had 75psi.  Phew 

 

Shut it down straight away as we hadn't done the coolant. Did you know the 1275 top hose is different to the 998?  I do now !!!

 

Much playing around followed, complete with cursing frustration and the odd bruised knuckle as I tried to fit parts, all bought from reputable suppliers which frankly, didn't fit!

 

But I was relieved it ran so I'll leave it there and update a little later.

 

Many thanks for stopping by

 

Regards

 

Steve

 

 

 

[Jared Mk3]

Oh now that does look nice. Glad to hear you got it going, but pity about the parts.

[minimuk]

nice one Steve looks great, start-up first time and glad you got yr pressure .....must be a.relief for you 

[stevede]

nice one Steve looks great, start-up first time and glad you got yr pressure .....must be a.relief for you 

 

 

Thanks minimuk, but the delight was short lived.

 

I have pressure but it take 5 - 6 seconds after starting to register, even though I have 50+ running and 25 at idle.

 

I'm a bit at my wits end figuring out what to do. I have another question thread running if anyone who follows my build can assist

 

http://www.theminifo...-advice-needed/

 

 

The engine is currently back on the garage floor 

 

Regards

 

Steve

Edited by stevede, 01 September 2013 - 03:22 PM.

[Mini-Mad-Craig]

Bump for this awesome project. Where are we at now?

[stevede]

Wow, a year since I have been around and to be honest haven't done much with the mini or actually used it. I've re-kindled another passion which has 2 wheels less and fits in the garage.

 

As a result, I think I may be at the point where it's time to sell.

 

Car has done about 200 miles since the last mot, and is in need of some tlc paint wise.

 

I have no idea what the going rate is for such a car. (I know what it stands me at, but that's academic). I'd rather someone who can smarten her up and enjoy take over.

 

Had to put 4 new tyres on after the last mot and despite the battery being a bit low, started first time yesterday. Needs an mot again now but I will get that sorted prior to any sale.

 

Appreciate this is not the correct section but any stab at what I could realistically expect bearing in mind it probably needs a repaint?

 

Cheers all

 

Steve

[Shifty]

Noooooo...........