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Fuel Pump Relay


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#1 mr.x

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 11:21 PM

I just got an ACR4 code reader. I hooked it up to my Mpi and read the codes. It kept coming back with a fuel pump relay fault. Is there a master list of codes available anywhere online that give me more information about what the codes mean? Where is the fuel pump relay and does it normally fail?

#2 tmsmini

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 08:11 PM

Here is a drawing:
Posted Image

The actual relay is internal to the module. I would check the multi-plug connectors for corrosion and a missing seal.

You should be able to drive the realy with the ACR4 and hear the relay.

Edited by tmsmini, 19 May 2009 - 08:12 PM.


#3 mr.x

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 02:05 AM

Here is a drawing:
Posted Image

The actual relay is internal to the module. I would check the multi-plug connectors for corrosion and a missing seal.

You should be able to drive the realy with the ACR4 and hear the relay.


The relay appears to be working, but how would I know for sure? The car starts, but not smoothly. What needs to be replaced to get this error corrected?

#4 mr.x

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 01:14 PM

No one knows about the fuel pump relay?

#5 Sprocket

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 07:14 PM

I think you are barking up the wrong tree.

There is a slim possability that the ECU has current sensing to detect a relay failure, That I am not sure of, there is no other way the ECU could determine a relay failure it has no feed back.

perhaps the relay pack was not plugged in and the ECU turned on, that would log a fault.

Personaly if the fault log has cleared, the fault does not return, and the car runs, i wouldnt worry about it.

Some code readers throw up faults that are not related to the car its connected to as the software for that manufacturer covers the whole range rather than just specific to one car or engine. :dontgetit:

#6 mr.x

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 04:49 PM

I think you are barking up the wrong tree.

There is a slim possability that the ECU has current sensing to detect a relay failure, That I am not sure of, there is no other way the ECU could determine a relay failure it has no feed back.

perhaps the relay pack was not plugged in and the ECU turned on, that would log a fault.

Personaly if the fault log has cleared, the fault does not return, and the car runs, i wouldnt worry about it.

Some code readers throw up faults that are not related to the car its connected to as the software for that manufacturer covers the whole range rather than just specific to one car or engine. :D


The code keeps coming back after it is cleared. The car has a hard time starting from cold. It runs poorly (lack of fuel) for about 10-20 seconds, then fires up normally. If I hit the fuel pedal in that first 10-20 seconds, it will run fine. The code reader is telling me the truth.

#7 Sprocket

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 05:47 PM

I think you are barking up the wrong tree.

There is a slim possability that the ECU has current sensing to detect a relay failure, That I am not sure of, there is no other way the ECU could determine a relay failure it has no feed back.

perhaps the relay pack was not plugged in and the ECU turned on, that would log a fault.

Personaly if the fault log has cleared, the fault does not return, and the car runs, i wouldnt worry about it.

Some code readers throw up faults that are not related to the car its connected to as the software for that manufacturer covers the whole range rather than just specific to one car or engine. :D


The code keeps coming back after it is cleared. The car has a hard time starting from cold. It runs poorly (lack of fuel) for about 10-20 seconds, then fires up normally. If I hit the fuel pedal in that first 10-20 seconds, it will run fine. The code reader is telling me the truth.



I dont think it is, and you are looking ion the wrong place. Cold start problems usualy associated with coolant temp sensor. Could also be the stepper motor sticking and or needs resetting with the code reader.

Its either lack of air (stepper) or too much fuel ( coolant temp sensor)

The relay is either on or off. There would be enough fuel to keep the car running even if it was fluttering for 10 to 20 seconds. Seeing as the 'problem goes away after that, i think the realy is fine and the problem is the stepper motor or the temp sensor ;)


Like I said, the fuel pump relay fault code is a red herring, as I previously discussed why ;)

#8 mr.x

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 11:26 PM

I think you are barking up the wrong tree.

There is a slim possability that the ECU has current sensing to detect a relay failure, That I am not sure of, there is no other way the ECU could determine a relay failure it has no feed back.

perhaps the relay pack was not plugged in and the ECU turned on, that would log a fault.

Personaly if the fault log has cleared, the fault does not return, and the car runs, i wouldnt worry about it.

Some code readers throw up faults that are not related to the car its connected to as the software for that manufacturer covers the whole range rather than just specific to one car or engine. ^_^


The code keeps coming back after it is cleared. The car has a hard time starting from cold. It runs poorly (lack of fuel) for about 10-20 seconds, then fires up normally. If I hit the fuel pedal in that first 10-20 seconds, it will run fine. The code reader is telling me the truth.



I dont think it is, and you are looking ion the wrong place. Cold start problems usualy associated with coolant temp sensor. Could also be the stepper motor sticking and or needs resetting with the code reader.

Its either lack of air (stepper) or too much fuel ( coolant temp sensor)

The relay is either on or off. There would be enough fuel to keep the car running even if it was fluttering for 10 to 20 seconds. Seeing as the 'problem goes away after that, i think the realy is fine and the problem is the stepper motor or the temp sensor :)


Like I said, the fuel pump relay fault code is a red herring, as I previously discussed why :P


Coolant temp sensor was just replaced, so that isn't it. What exactly is a stepper and how do I fix it? Why wouldn't the ECU show a stepper motor malfunction on the ACR if that was the problem?

#9 bluedragon

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 12:44 AM

Coolant temp sensor was just replaced, so that isn't it. What exactly is a stepper and how do I fix it? Why wouldn't the ECU show a stepper motor malfunction on the ACR if that was the problem?



Read the pinned topic "Stepper Motor" above in this section. You've got the ACR4 to manipulate the motor so you're more than halfway towards resolving this compared to most others!

#10 mr.x

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 06:37 PM

Coolant temp sensor was just replaced, so that isn't it. What exactly is a stepper and how do I fix it? Why wouldn't the ECU show a stepper motor malfunction on the ACR if that was the problem?



Read the pinned topic "Stepper Motor" above in this section. You've got the ACR4 to manipulate the motor so you're more than halfway towards resolving this compared to most others!


I read it and it doesn't tell me how to fix the problem. I need to know what to do with the ACR to tell the ECU to fix the stepper.

#11 mr.x

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 08:00 PM

I just went out and hooked up the ACR4. I got into the menu and looked at the current stepper reading. It shows 115-122 range. I have cleared the codes twice and I keep getting #13 error code
"Fuel Pump Relay or Purge Valve or M.I.L. Lamp or Communications"

I have no idea what the Purge valve or MIL lamp is.

I then went on to see if I could adjust the stepper and it just says "turn engine on to warm up" "press OK when ready". If I press OK, it won't do anything. None of the keys work. If I start the engine, I get a "data communication failed" message. Why can't the ACR talk to the ECU when the engine is running??

I'm also seeing a crank sync "BAD" and Cam signal "BAD" under the components menu. Any idea what this means?

Edited by mr.x, 23 June 2009 - 08:01 PM.


#12 elvisthepizzaman

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 01:20 PM

The crank and cam sensor signals will always be bad when the engine is not running, it has to be running to read those. I have never been able to get my acr4 to work while its running. The ACR4 has a hard time communicating with the ECU when the engine is running and I dont know how to fix it. SP says get a new cable but that does not fix the problem.

I too get the error 13 and have a bit of hard cold start but it is deffinetly not the relay. You can test the relay in the actuators menu, it will turn it on and off for a period of about a minute.

The purge valve is hooked up between the manifold and the emission canister under the left wheel arch. there should be a small grey thing with two wires going to it near the inertia impact fuel cutoff switch on the left side of the engine bay (old style rad side) Number 9 on image below.

http://classicminico...sgood-full.jpg

Try taking it out and spraying it with some cleaner, carb, electric, etc... I did that and the error went away but my cold start issue still exists.

Edited by elvisthepizzaman, 25 June 2009 - 01:22 PM.


#13 mr.x

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 05:34 PM

The crank and cam sensor signals will always be bad when the engine is not running, it has to be running to read those. I have never been able to get my acr4 to work while its running. The ACR4 has a hard time communicating with the ECU when the engine is running and I dont know how to fix it. SP says get a new cable but that does not fix the problem.

I too get the error 13 and have a bit of hard cold start but it is deffinetly not the relay. You can test the relay in the actuators menu, it will turn it on and off for a period of about a minute.

The purge valve is hooked up between the manifold and the emission canister under the left wheel arch. there should be a small grey thing with two wires going to it near the inertia impact fuel cutoff switch on the left side of the engine bay (old style rad side) Number 9 on image below.

http://classicminico...sgood-full.jpg

Try taking it out and spraying it with some cleaner, carb, electric, etc... I did that and the error went away but my cold start issue still exists.


I'm going to have a look at this and see if I can clean it out.

Should I just go ahead and buy an idle air control valve to replace the one of the car?

#14 elvisthepizzaman

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 04:15 AM

no you should not buy a new one just to try to get this stupid error code to go away because it would do you no good as you still need to use the acr4 to adjust the IACV to its proper position for idle. which is almost impossible with the communication errors between acr4 and ecu.




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