346 replies to this topic

[Retro_10s]

If you haven’t already, remove the gear with 110 on it (think it’s an e or circlip on the back) and clean the shaft/brash bushes. As even after doing exactly the same as you to mine and previously fitted new wheel boxes, I found the wipers still only worked when both were completely clear of the windscreen, as the gear/shaft was sized up with corrosion and dried grease.

Yep, cheers Karl,.. I have done that already,.. the circlip on the bottom was a pain to get to and was seizing from rust, But it caved in eventually, there was so much filth under there! All turning freely and smoothly :)

Cheers

[1984mini25]

 

If you haven’t already, remove the gear with 110 on it (think it’s an e or circlip on the back) and clean the shaft/brash bushes. As even after doing exactly the same as you to mine and previously fitted new wheel boxes, I found the wipers still only worked when both were completely clear of the windscreen, as the gear/shaft was sized up with corrosion and dried grease.

Yep, cheers Karl,.. I have done that already,.. the circlip on the bottom was a pain to get to and was seizing from rust, But it caved in eventually, there was so much filth under there! All turning freely and smoothly :)

Cheers

 

 

Mine was too (so easy to slip and put a screwdriver though your finger) and the only way mine was coming apart was with a drift and club hammer revealing lots of vintage filth.

[Retro_10s]

Have done a little more work on the n/s front wing, there were some high spots, which I've now sorted, soon I'll prime it for the last time.

Today I've taken the clutch master-cylinder apart, there were no leaks, and it seemed to operate smoothly, but it's grotty, and since I am unsure if it has ever been re-built, I have decided that the cost of parts to re-man it is negligible... And so it makes sense to get them.

The insides were a bit dark but the piston seals are smooth and appear in very good condition, the back seal showing maybe a little wear/rounding.


I've ordered a rebuild kit from minispares along with a couple of clevis and split pins

After a lot of cleaning and degreasing I have got some etch primer onto the cylinder and it's looking much healthier now.


I'll need to get some new gaskets for when the clutch and brake cylinders are mounted back into the engine bay.

[colinf1]

Looking good, although you'll have to be careful filling the brake fluid so you don't strip the paint off!

[Retro_10s]

Looking good, although you'll have to be careful filling the brake fluid so you don't strip the paint off!

Yes you're right! Hopefully I won't be filling it often at all! I was thinking if getting one of those little filler neck extensions actually, just screws onto the thread for the cap and effectively raises the neck by a couple of inch.

On the other hand I'm wondering if it's a product that doesn't really need to exist.

[stuart bowes]

just use a little funnel and a rag, on every-day cars usually I get a little spill but that's usually because I rush just to get the job done, on the mini hopefully I'll find the time to be more slow and methodical about stuff

[Retro_10s]

just use a little funnel and a rag, on every-day cars usually I get a little spill but that's usually because I rush just to get the job done, on the mini hopefully I'll find the time to be more slow and methodical about stuff

 

my usual method has been a trusty cap with a length of small hose glue-gunned into it,..., i squeeze the fluid into the cylinder and then as you suggest, a little wipe with a rag stops any fluid dripping. 

 

Just placed a Minispares order for some bits and bobs, clutch cyclinder kit, some clevis pins, a couple of grommets, and a 5/8unf plug for my inlet manifold... suprising how quickly you can burn through £30! 

[KTS]

i would recommend getting a couple of these;  they are excellent for topping up the reservoirs without spills, and bleeding brakes single handedly 

 

https://www.motorwor...bra90012-1.html

[Retro_10s]

i would recommend getting a couple of these;  they are excellent for topping up the reservoirs without spills, and bleeding brakes single handedly 
 
https://www.motorwor...bra90012-1.html

That's a fantastic little piece of kit! Thanks a lot for the recommendation!!

[Retro_10s]

Haven't done much the past couple of days but I did decide to explore the brake master-cylinder,.. I had no real reason to,... So I thought!


Outwardly it had no leaks, which surprised me, and the brake pedal felt fine,.. but now that I've seen the condition of the boot and the underneath,.. I feel it was probably the original cylinder, and probably on limited time. The circlip is moving but being a little testy, once I have that off, I will make a decision on whether to rebuild, or replace. Seal kits are a few quid,.. Rebuild kits are half the price of a new cylinder,.. on the other hand it's not too expensive to just replace it.

Edited by Retro_10s, 27 September 2022 - 05:22 PM.

[Retro_10s]

Rebuilt the clutch master cylinder today, very pleased with how it went, using the minispares rebuild kit.

New parts next to the old


Assembled carefully, be sure to lubricate it all lightly using brake fluid, assemble using your hands, tools will damage the seals.


The clevis pin was toast, with deep ridges worn into it


All buttoned up, and back together, another part ready for the rebuild.


I also received a 5/8unf grub screw to plug the servo take off on my Inlet manifold. I will be using an MG Metro Inlet (CAM6618) as it will hopefully give me enough clearance to fit my HIF38

[Retro_10s]

Got the brake master cylinder apart finally, after a fight!

Started with the circlip, first it was seized, but soaking overnight got that sorted then I had to inch it out, eventually managed to get one side of it out of the groove with circlip pliers and then yank it free. This allowed me to get the first primary piston out. Covered in think gunk. Next was the reservoir, swinging it away from the cylinder body was extremely tough but after a big struggle + some wd40 around the seals, it finally popped free. This allowed me to remove the pin holding the secondary piston in, gravity did it's thing and out it slid.



Whilst mucky, it seems to be in good condition, the cylinder bore looks and feels fine so I see no reason not to get a rebuild kit for it. It wasn't leaking with old seals so it shouldn't leak with new ones either.

[GraemeC]

That new clevis pin looks a bit long!

The bottom dust rubber boot on the master cylinder should sit on the loose collar on the shaft, stops the cylinder operation suffering from the rod dragging on the rubber.

[Retro_10s]

That new clevis pin looks a bit long!

The bottom dust rubber boot on the master cylinder should sit on the loose collar on the shaft, stops the cylinder operation suffering from the rod dragging on the rubber.

Graeme you beauty. You've just answered a question that I had been pondering, now I understand what that little collar is,.. I didn't realise it was supposed to be loose, and now it makes a lot more sense, it's currently stuck to the shaft but I haven't tried to loosen it. THANKYOU, MATE!

I agree, the clevis pins seem overly long, I was wondering if this just a 'one size fits all' kind of affair, or if they're wrong for the cylinders,... And If it even makes a difference at all,.. maybe they will foul the top of the pedal box?

Sorted! It just needed a little wiggle to free it from the rust, I've put some light grease on the rod to stop the collar seizing on again but better keep an eye on it

Edited by Retro_10s, 29 September 2022 - 04:01 PM.

[colinf1]

I'm very surprised you got that apart at all!
The piston in mine has rusted solid to the bore, then plastic tank snapped off, was very brittle.