346 replies to this topic

[Retro_10s]

I think the biggest issue with the flow on that is the bolt.

Maybe - but i doubt it, The air is moving down vertically along with the bolt at that point but also in other directions - if you knife edge it in one direction you'll still be left with a flat area in the other.

So a round surface is seems to be the best option in my opinion - maybe make the whole thing a little thinner - but i don't think i'll be knife edging.

Besides - I'm happy with it as it is.

[Asphalt]

Maybe - but i doubt it, The air is moving down vertically along with the bolt at that point but also in other directions - if you knife edge it in one direction you'll still be left with a flat area in the other.

So a round surface is seems to be the best option in my opinion - maybe make the whole thing a little thinner - but i don't think i'll be knife edging.

Besides - I'm happy with it as it is.

Yeah, I'm thinking the same. Round is allready a good shape
And with that shape you gave it it's way better than the original!

Is your Vizardized carb finished yet?

Cheers,
Jan

Edited by Asphalt, 06 September 2009 - 10:29 PM.

[Retro_10s]

I'm going to be calling the Engineering place today or tomorrow to find out when i can collect the Carb

[Retro_10s]

Carb is home However the work done was a bit rough so I've gone over it myself with a fine file and some emery paper to smooth it out:

Piston chamfered at both ends to eliminate the obstruction caused by overhang when the piston is raised:


Throttle spindle has been halved, and the plate itself has been knife edged:


Also took a comparison shot of the unmodified Elbow next to the modified one: Quite a difference. Still needs the final smoothing


In addition to this, I converted my Carb from Waxstat today to solid jet type - This will eliminate the Mixture leaning out when the engine bay temperature starts getting hot. Good for emissions - bad for power and can cause running problems.

Step 1: Pop the ball joint clip off that holds the jet in place, remove the pipe to the float chamber remove the waxstat. Bend the tabs back and out pops the wax filled copper pot.


Here's the Copper Pot sat next to its replacement parts. - yep - Pennies are a perfect fit - I only show two here but i needed to fit three to get the JET height correct.


Here are the pennies sat in place of the Waxstat:


And then placed the retainer back on and bent the clips over to hold it there:


All back together!

[AndrewJ530]

Wow! Them mods look brilliant. That elbow looks good aswell. Can really see the difference. When's it going to be fitted to the car? When's it going on the rollers?

[Asphalt]

Very nice! Tasty!

[Retro_10s]

Hopefully I'll get it fitted tomorrow - I need some studs for the Manifold - regarding Tuning - It'll be rollered at the end of year - First thing is to find out if the engine actually runs,.. It will definatley need a different needle - currently an AAC which was a standard needle. it'll need something richer.

[jaydee]

Can't wait to get the car on the rollers (if it runs!) and see what all the little modifications I've done will add up to!

I think the biggest issue with the flow on that is the bolt.
Cant you do something with it to minimise the interuption to the air flow like thin it down and knife edge it? leaving the thread on top, its not like its going to have pressure trying to bend it, only pulling on it.

Yes and no burnard.
Yes, its an interruption to the air flow but, as retro replied above, round is the best shape for that stud. And it also helps to deviate part of the air flow on the two holes on the side of the elbow (shame ive forgot their technical name).
Making the base of the stud thin but round will be an improvement, but not worth the hassle imho.

The elbow has to be smoothed with 400 grit, its the inlet that have to be 'rough', i see you already did a very good work on your inlet.

I usually do a bit more work on the throttle spindle.

I would start with AAA needle, definately not with AAC.
Dont know if you already changed it, but i'd reccomend a brand new red spring for your carb.

You'll notice a great throttle responce with that modifications, especially on full throttle, you'll be amazed by the difference.

You're doing a very good job with Reginald!

Edited by jaydee, 15 September 2009 - 02:38 PM.

[Burnard]

All back together!

Id look it up but my dad decided to take the vizard book to work this week.

What is the point behind the coins?


Chris

Edited by Retro_10s, 15 September 2009 - 04:03 PM.
Please don't quote a whole post!

[jaydee]

What is the point behind the coins?

In poor words, the removal of the thermostat to have a costant fuel mixture in either cold and hot conditions.

[Retro_10s]

Yes - the Coins are there to remove the self adjustable wax thermostat,.. It now has a solid jet like earlier SU's.

I usually do a bit more work on the throttle spindle.

I agree, and will be doing more to it myself, there is still more material that can be filed away,.. amazing how good nail files are for this exact procedure

I would start with AAA needle, definately not with AAC.
Dont know if you already changed it, but i'd reccomend a brand new red spring for your carb.

thanks dude - I was thinking AAA or AAU (mainly as i have the AAU in the garage already) but i'll go for AAA as a starting point. I assume the red spring is stiffer than standard?

Id look it up but my dad decided to take the vizard book to work this week.

I'm not 100% sure but i don't think the waxstat conversion is covered in the book - I'll have a look later for you.

[Burnard]

Ok so you just keep a constant fuel mixture rather than it varying with different tempteratures?
Is there much of a point to this, surely you would need a richer mixture when its colder and leaner when its hot and the waxstat would do this for you?

If i did it i wouldnt need to change my needle from a 'swinging type'?

Your work is looking great by the way.

Thanks

Chris

[Retro_10s]

Ok so you just keep a constant fuel mixture rather than it varying with different tempteratures?
Is there much of a point to this, surely you would need a richer mixture when its colder and leaner when its hot and the waxstat would do this for you?

Like i said in my earlier posts - good for economy - not so good for power. Waxstats also have a habit of over compensating the mixture - causing the car to bog down at higher speeds when the engine bay gets warm. They can also be faulty - the one i took out is broken - Lrstoke did this conversion and found that his stat was broken, as did Asphalt.

there are conversion kits out there for this exact procedure - but mine only costs 3p and 10 minutes!

[Burnard]

3P conversion suits me.

Is It just as simple as take it out, and replace with 3p, or will i need to check the ajustment of the jet and get it at the right height?

I see another weekend tuning comeing on

Edited by Burnard, 15 September 2009 - 05:04 PM.

[Retro_10s]

you will have to reset the jet - which should be set to about 1.5mm down from the bridge of the carb.