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The Rise And Fall Of Sir Reginald!


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#151 Jet_black

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 02:53 PM

I think I might rebuild my carb and head with a few modifications after reading this, need to find my vizard book. Very nice project.

#152 Retro_10s

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 03:10 PM

Thankyou, the modifications should certainly help 'eek' out the most from an otherwise standard 998.

#153 AndrewJ530

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 04:34 PM

Would be interesting to see a race between your's, a stage 1 998 and a standard one. Would give a real perspective of the modifications you've had done.

#154 Retro_10s

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 04:48 PM

Would be interesting to see a race between your's, a stage 1 998 and a standard one. Would give a real perspective of the modifications you've had done.


I agree, it really would be interesting - I imagine the torque is the main figure that will rise.

Hmmmm, Well... lets see what i Have on it:

Alloy, Water heated, inlet manifold, smoothed.
Cooper free-flow Exhaust manifold.
1.7/8" RC40 twin box exhaust system with matching link pipe.
New Air filter element in a 'Vizard Modified' airbox.
'Worked' Carb elbow.
HS4 carb with 'Vizard' modifications.
Rebuilt head, with a 3rd angle cut onto the valves + seats - increasing flow and sealing.
Completely rebuilt Distributor.

So essentially I have what would equate to a Very high quality Stage 1 kit + all the worked parts.

So I'm hoping that the whole package will probably be as you'd expect a stage 1 mini to perform - but with all the extra inlet tract work, the carb imrpovements and the quality exhaust manifold and RC40 etc I imagine it should lead to Very smooth power delivery.

I've never done an engine with all these mods on - so I can only make an educated guess at the results....

#155 AndrewJ530

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 05:23 PM

I agree, it really would be interesting - I imagine the torque is the main figure that will rise.

Hmmmm, Well... lets see what i Have on it:

Alloy, Water heated, inlet manifold, smoothed.
Cooper free-flow Exhaust manifold.
1.7/8" RC40 twin box exhaust system with matching link pipe.
New Air filter element in a 'Vizard Modified' airbox.
'Worked' Carb elbow.
HS4 carb with 'Vizard' modifications.
Rebuilt head, with a 3rd angle cut onto the valves + seats - increasing flow and sealing.
Completely rebuilt Distributor.

So essentially I have what would equate to a Very high quality Stage 1 kit + all the worked parts.

So I'm hoping that the whole package will probably be as you'd expect a stage 1 mini to perform - but with all the extra inlet tract work, the carb imrpovements and the quality exhaust manifold and RC40 etc I imagine it should lead to Very smooth power delivery.

I've never done an engine with all these mods on - so I can only make an educated guess at the results....


Personally i think it'll pull a lot harder than a normal stage 1. Definately be a noticable difference.

#156 Retro_10s

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 05:53 PM

I'll drink to that as it's what i really hope will happen.

Either way - It WILL be better than a standard engine with a stage 1 kit thrown on due to the extras

#157 MiniLandy

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 06:00 PM

I'm not sure how it'll compare to a stage 1 998, because of the standard air filter. Anyone know how close a good quality cone filter compares to a brand new paper element?

Apart from that, i'd be interested to see how much of a difference you think the Vizard mods make, i'm in the process of doing some of them myself. :D

Cheers, Paul.

#158 Retro_10s

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 06:04 PM

I'm not sure how it'll compare to a stage 1 998, because of the standard air filter. Anyone know how close a good quality cone filter compares to a brand new paper element?


I don't have a standard air filter and didn't say i did! - I have a 'Vizard' Modified air box with a K&N replacement element, which out performs Cone filters as shown in Vizards book.

In-fact, a clean paper standard air filter element in a standard box also outflows the cone air filters.

#159 Jet_black

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 06:20 PM

A lot less noise as well lol.

#160 Retro_10s

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 06:21 PM

A lot less noise as well lol.


Quite right - another reason for keeping the standard box!

#161 Down&Out

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Posted 02 September 2009 - 11:37 PM

Can you entail what you have done to the visard airbox? is it that you've drilled holes in it?

Im thinking of doing some of these mods stealth so they dont charge me on top of the £1715 they think im gunna pay them for insurance :D.

#162 MiniLandy

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 11:05 AM

New Air filter element in a 'Vizard Modified' airbox.


I thought from this you meant that you had a new standard filter...

I'm not sure how it'll compare to a stage 1 998, because of the standard air filter. Anyone know how close a good quality cone filter compares to a brand new paper element?


I don't have a standard air filter and didn't say i did! - I have a 'Vizard' Modified air box with a K&N replacement element, which out performs Cone filters as shown in Vizards book.

In-fact, a clean paper standard air filter element in a standard box also outflows the cone air filters.


I think i need to read the filtration section of Vizard's book, it might be worth my while just changing the paper element, for the 2 or 3 quid it is for a new one :gimme:

Cheers, Paul

#163 Retro_10s

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Posted 04 September 2009 - 05:22 PM

Little teeny update:

New 'Apec' brake pads:
Posted Image

An overtaking mirror:
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And 6 new bulbs for the centre speedo:
Posted Image

Also sold the centre console i was so excited about,... I've decided to weld some brackets onto the the bottom of the heater box and fix a standard Stereo housing underneath it like I did in my previous project. this way i still get the spacious feel of the insides and have a nice stereo in a position that doesn't infringe on interior room or style.

might do that later ;)

#164 Retro_10s

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Posted 04 September 2009 - 08:08 PM

Well ended up doing something totally different tonight! Although i did fit the new bulbs - I now have all my dash lights working - including the Oil sender - which was previously thought to be condemned - I was just about to wind it out of the block and thought to myself "hmmmm i wonder if it's seized up inside - and i wonder if hitting it with a heavy hammer would free the insides up" - **bang** - light comes on - appears to be fixed! Huzzah for the hammer! it fixes all in it's way!

Then I decided to drill a couple of holes next to the horn on the slam panel to accept two new studs and a second horn - all works, tested it out expecting a little toot and - i got a bleedin' fog horn! It's rather loud to say the least! I nearly browned me trooosers!

#165 Burnard

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 09:19 PM

Then i had some fun with a drill and some cutting stones!!! The Carb elbow casting is pretty crude at the best of times and i figured i could improve on the design by ironing out some of the flaws. The outlet flange of the elbow has some little 'ears' that stick out, these are stepped rather than smooth, they disrupt the air flow into the carb, so i smoothed them out.
There is also a large step right around the circumference of the outlet so the whole lot was smoothed out and then sanded with 80 grit paper to get a smoother (but still grainy) finish. hopefully this should all add towards smooth power delivery.

If you have an elbow kicking about, take a look at it and compare,.. the difference is quite considerable now that i've finished working it.
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Can't wait to get the car on the rollers (if it runs!) and see what all the little modifications I've done will add up to!


I think the biggest issue with the flow on that is the bolt.
Cant you do something with it to minimise the interuption to the air flow like thin it down and knife edge it? leaving the thread on top, its not like its going to have pressure trying to bend it, only pulling on it.




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