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Etch Primer Reacting


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#1 1987_ParkLane

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 07:06 PM

Hi all,

I have just de-bumped my mini at the front, filled up all the holes with filled, sanded, etc, and came to put etch primer on, and in a few places it has reacted, I think:

Posted Image

So just wondering what the best method is to get rid of it, and stop it from happening again. I used 'U-POL 1K Etch Primer' from Halfords. I'm guessing a sand back to bare metal reply is coming :thumbsup: .

Cheers

#2 welshdan

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 07:11 PM

its worth rubbing the reacted area back, degreasing, and trying again. id never use halfords paint anymore, it used to react all of the time. grey primer wasnt too bad, the yellow filler primer reacted every time i used it.


make sure area is dry. id get paint from a local paint shop, should be much better quality.

#3 jack_marshall

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 07:22 PM

Your using way too much.

You only need one very light misting of etch primer sometimes called a dust coat. This doesnt need rubbbing or flatting.

Then you apply your surfacing primer ontop of that, if your using aerosol primer u'll need 5-6 coats.

#4 miniforester_alex

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 09:14 PM

If you are getting a lot of reaction i would use bar coat primer is better than etch as covers all types of paint, evan over fish eye
tis bril stuff and only 17 quid a litre, did the job nicely on my progect, as previously it had hammerite, 2k, 1k allsorts had a bad
reaction with etch so used bar coat instead, Etch primer is only really designed for new metal where the surface has had no previous
paint applied to the surface, and also yes it should only be used in a dusting coat, i apologise if this is incorrect but everything i have
been taught and read about, also other advice given by a few dam good sprayers.

Cheers Alex

#5 1987_ParkLane

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 10:00 AM

Ah right, thanks for the replies, I'll go out and sand it down, then give a light dusting of the etch primer and see how that goes, then a top coat of normal primer. Cheers.

#6 jack_marshall

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 05:56 PM

I agree with what your saying about barcoat but at the end of the day if your having to use that, you have a problem underneath, and for peace of mind I would strip all the other crap off underneath and start again.

#7 1987_ParkLane

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 06:17 PM

Right, sanded back, re-primed and is all ok, cheers guys :shy: .

#8 miniforester_alex

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 09:34 PM

I agree with what your saying about barcoat but at the end of the day if your having to use that, you have a problem underneath, and for peace of mind I would strip all the other crap off underneath and start again.


Hey yeah you are right normally i would strip the shell fully but due to time and it just being a tart up for the car
decided just to go ahead with that, like for example i have got another project which i will be stripping fully
back to metal then will use a rust inhibeter (soz for spelling not my forte) etch primer then carry on as normal
just is a pain when you have so many diffent paints on a car that has been previously messed with.

Alx

#9 tractor1

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 09:47 AM

hey there

i don't want to hi jack your thred but i was just wondering how much etch primer do i need to order do my whole shell?

i was thinking i need to have a coverage simular to what you've pictured above but if i only need to do a dust covering then i'm guessing i only need a couple of litres yeah?

#10 Tomf

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 09:56 AM

1 liter should be plenty engough for one mini

#11 tractor1

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 10:51 AM

cool cheers mate :D




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