12 replies to this topic

[mk=john]

Hi
I need to remove the timing gear on my Mk1 cooper, and of course I need to remove the crank pulley. Anyway, after I have removed the radiator etc, I notice that the crankshaft pulley bolt seems very awquard. There is a big bracket in the way, the one that joins the engine to the subby, and this won'd let me use a socket on a breaker bar. I can't use a spanner, because the bolt is recessed in the pulley.

Does anyone have any ideas how i can remove it, what tools I need etc? I plan to go to halfords today to get what i need

Thanks!

John

[Ethel]

remove the long bolts that run front to rear through the mounting with the sump sat on a jack. You can cut back the plate between the rad mounting holes enough for a socket also.

[mk=john]

remove the long bolts that run front to rear through the mounting with the sump sat on a jack. You can cut back the plate between the rad mounting holes enough for a socket also.

Hi, how will removing the bolts help me? I still wont have enough space to get a socket onto the bolt.

Thanks

[Ethel]

You can then raise the engine to create extra clearance. You may prefer to remove the mounting plate a file it back to create clearance so you can just slot a socket straight on, quite useful for turning the engine over by hand.

[mk=john]

You can then raise the engine to create extra clearance. You may prefer to remove the mounting plate a file it back to create clearance so you can just slot a socket straight on, quite useful for turning the engine over by hand.

Hi, i have now removed the braqcket, and now have discovered that My socket is not big enough, the socket is 32mm. What size socket do I need for the pulley bolt?

Thanks

[minipac]

34mm

[mk=john]

34mm

Hi, I have just found a socket to fit, 34mm halfords one. but I am having trouble removing the bolt. I have used a flywheel locking tool, which I have bolted in place through the starter motor hole, but find I am putting lots of force with a breaker bar and the bolt is not budging. I am affraid of damaging anything if I pull too hard.

It is not a reverse thread, is it? Should it be this difficult to remove? I have tried to open the locking washer as far as I can, but the bolt is not budging. Any ideas?

Thanks

[minipac]

i have alway found that if you dont mind marking your breaker bar if you hold it under pressure and give it a go couple of hits with a lump hammer. you would undo it by pulling the breaker bar towards you.

[L400RAS]

Hi,

I take it you have knocked back all the tabs of the locking washer? Also, the actual size is 1-5/16" (1 and five sixteenths of an inch = 33.33mm) this size socket is great on other mini nuts - flywheel, steering wheel etc.

Ryan.

[MRA]

34mm is running a risk of slipping off causing damage to you or your car

As L400RAS says the correct size is 1 5/16"

No these bolts are not a left (LH) handed thread, try to tighten it a little first as this can help to "break" any locking between the threaded parts

Edited by mra-minis.co.uk, 01 May 2009 - 05:37 PM.

[mk=john]

34mm is running a risk of slipping off causing damage to you or your car

As L400RAS says the correct size is 1 5/16"

No these bolts are not a left (LH) handed thread, try to tighten it a little first as this can help to "break" any locking between the threaded parts

Hi, i have managed tio remove the bolt after appkying all my weight to a breaker bar, but have another problem:

I know that removing the actual pulley should be easy, as I have done it on other minis. This pulley looks a little wierd though: it looks like it has in inner and an outer. When I try to lever it off with two screwdrivers, i can see the outer ring move in relation to the inner part. The pulley looks as though it has a ring of rubber on the side which is closest to the engine.

It is a 998 Cooper engine in case this makes a difference
I cant seem to budge it all all with the screwdriver method. Any ideas?

[Jordie]

I believe its a damper type pulley. The rubber is there to absorb vibrations etc.

It should come off with some leverage. Dont be scared to use a bigger lever, i found a crowbar or tyre lever did the trick easily. Alot of the time, a good yank with the hands works best.

[MRA]

Don't apply load to the flexible part of the damper or the part that is NOT fixed to the crank nose.

Also don't gorilla it off unless you don't mind the damage it could do to the rest of your engine......... try using two bars and lever it off evenly