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Clevis Pins...


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#1 monkey

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 03:57 PM

Right, I have spent a few hours today ripping a few more bits of the shell of my mini, and i have a few questions..

Firstly, clevis pins... who invented them? I want to know so I ask ask them how they expect me to get them out when they are rusty and seized and stuck up on top of the brake pedal? I have been spraying them liberally with WD40 (is there a more suited product out there?!) and have managed to get the clutch master cyliner out, but not the clevis pin out of the brakes.

Secondly, the bit where the return hose from the heater matrix comes through the bulkhead back into the engine bay... why is there a metal plate bolted down with 4 bolts? It surly is a rust/water trap, so why cant I take it off and (try to) weld a plate over it?

Last but not least... how do i get the top dash rail cover thingy-ma-jiggy off? Does that have to wait till the screen is out? I managed to get the bottom rail cover thing off (and totally wreck it in the mean-time!!)

#2 Bean

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:03 PM

1. Can't help you with the clevis pin, I'm afraid! On my last car, it just dropped out and onto my foot one day ... and scared the hell out of me!

2. I believe that the metal plate is there, covering the holes that are put in for the brake/clutch cylinder for left hand drive cars. (I think).

3. The top dash rail is held in by 3 bolts. One on the left, one in the middle and one on the right. The nuts can be taken off, but it's very difficult to actually get the rail out with the windscreen still in. I managed it, but I wouldn't recommend it, lol.



Hope this helps!

#3 adcyork

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:09 PM

Sideways leverage using a pry bar usually works to push the clevis pin out. You have taken the split pin out? Fairly obvious but i thought i'd ask.

The plate that you're asking aboout on the bulkhead is a blanking plate for the master cylinder cut out in the bulkhead if the car was left hand drive. The four bolts would then hold the brake and clutch masters and the blanking plate would be fitted onto the other side. You can weld a patch it if you want to permanently blank it off but there really is no need.

The top dash rail is held by 3 nuts that are on studs on the dash rail (each end and the middle)

hope this helps

*beaten to it*

Edited by adcyork, 28 April 2009 - 04:10 PM.


#4 Juju

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:10 PM

The top dash rail is held by 3 nuts that are on studs on the dash rail (each end and the middle)


Some of them have four......... :)

#5 Ethel

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:11 PM

If the clevis pin it putting up a fight just imagine how much worse a rusty bolt could be. But a big nut over the head end and use some molegrips to squeeze the pin into it.

#6 monkey

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:23 PM

If the clevis pin it putting up a fight just imagine how much worse a rusty bolt could be. But a big nut over the head end and use some molegrips to squeeze the pin into it.


Now that's an idea I like! Ok so I guess a rusty bolt would be even less fun... but you know what I mean :)

And yes, I have taken the split pin out! (although it also wasnt easy!) Sir Issigonis could have given us some more room up near the pedal box surly! :wub:

As for the plate for the left hand drive master cylinders... can you get new ones? Mine is rustier than my roof, it sounds like plating it up would be abit over kill, although it would neaten everything up...

#7 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:39 PM

tip with clevis pins...

when you put them back in, instead of using split pins, use R clips...

Also a little copper grease usually stops them from rusting up.

#8 Shifty

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:40 PM

Also being a shortarse with small hands is a great help!!

I 2nd the R clips, makes it a lot easier!!

#9 Jaffa-cake

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 06:12 PM

tip with clevis pins...

when you put them back in, instead of using split pins, use R clips...

Also a little copper grease usually stops them from rusting up.

thats a idea and a half !

#10 cagy

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 07:17 PM

and be careful with the dash rail it can be a right C**t to get off i got mine off not too long ago it takes a lot of waggling. As for the clevis pin mine came out quite easily i got a pair of wire cutters under the lip and prised it out!!


Craig

#11 rosco454

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 07:27 PM

You can also tie a little length of string to the r clip when you put the pin back in,make it loads easier than reaching right the way up.Just make sure its short enough not to interfere with your pedal box,or slip it into the bottom dash rail and you can slip it out when needed.

EDIT - And yes i dont like them much either.

Edited by rosco454, 28 April 2009 - 07:28 PM.


#12 monkey

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 08:27 PM

and be careful with the dash rail it can be a right C**t to get off i got mine off not too long ago it takes a lot of waggling. As for the clevis pin mine came out quite easily i got a pair of wire cutters under the lip and prised it out!!


Craig


I geussed the dash rail would be a pain, i wrecked the bottom one getting it out :)

I like the idea of the string on an r-clip, and will deffo be smearing copper grease all over when it comes the time!

#13 cagy

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 08:28 PM

i did the same to the crash rail i left half of the foam stuck to the shell!! lol



Craig

#14 monkey

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 08:31 PM

I know it sucks, if/when the time comes for me to put it all back together, im hoping you can buy new ones from somewhere? Although saying that, with it all stripped out I think it looks quiet good, its begging to have a radio fitted in the switch panel!

#15 cagy

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 08:34 PM

true it does look better without one!! lol!!! someone somewhere should do one.


Craig




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