565 replies to this topic

[markrally]

I was going to ring chris about it but when i studied the DVD it clearly show the same gap so i went ahead and drilled it all off. All the rest of the measurements are correct and it seems to sit pretty square in the shell. and the rollcage has a good equal gap around the windscreen pillars etc which i was suprised considering the manufacture their own cage, you would expect the likes of a safety devices cage to be accurate as they bent using a CNC tube bender.
It is also touching the ridge inside where the rooflinghing sits on both sides which hindered the fitting of the kit a little. but a little dressing of this area when i remove the frame will sort this. The main rollcage hoop must be too tall by a 1/4" as it is just fouling and has marked the powder coating a little but it wont be seen when the windows are fitted.

Mark :wales:

[R1minimagic]

Got any more pics of inside the back end?? How much have you cut out of the arches and what is your rear ride height from the ground to the seam on the sill?

I see what you mean about the rear wheels, they look quite far forward already.

[markrally]

I havnt cut the rear quarter panels yet, only drilled the holes for the sportspack arches, i was gonna leave an even 1/4" from the bolt posistions in a nice arc and then use a joggling tool on the edge to add a bit of strength back in the flimsy panel. I also need to trim the inside out of the plastic arches as they come with an inner arch as standard so they need to be trimmed back to an edge see picture...

I have had to raise the spring seats up 10mm to provid clearance on the inner arches for now.

Providing the wheel alignment doesnt need too much adjustment i may be able to wing the trailing arms back about 1/4" to even the gap up a little but with the way the suspension moves in arc as it raises it moves the wheel back in the arch anyway.

Mark :wales:

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[R1mini]

I think R1mini will be the last, he's a right slacker!!! :fear: :fear:

Steady on Dale, there no need for that, although I have spent a lot of time on it.

It doesn't look much, I shall take some piccies and start my own thread soon

Cheers
R1mini

[markrally]

Here's another pic from behind, I cant get over how wide it is :grin: :grin:

Mark :wales:

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[markrally]

I have been out to the garage this morning, tried a seat in there ready to make seat rails but it is bl***y freezin so back to the comforts of central heating and a bit of e-bay......

Ive got a few bits to chase up on the braking department bias pedalbox or master cylinder?

Mark :wales:

[R1minimagic]

I am not sure if a bias pedal box will give enough adjustment to reduce the pressure going to the back brakes. The KAD ones etc are designed for minis with drums on the back, but the sierra calipers have a surface area about 6 times bigger than a normal drum brake cylinder (if i remember correctly).

Do you know if you can reduce it that much on the bias bar??

I think i will remove the servo and fit a normal master cylinder (yellow band disc brake type, i think they are the same internal bore??) and then get a bias valve fitted to reduce the pressure going to the back. The brakes feel ridiculously over servo'd at the moment. However, i need to drive the car with the servo disconnected and see what i think.

[markrally]

You can adjust the rear brake pressure initially by fitting a larger cylinder for the rear.
5/8" for the front and at least a 3/4" for the rear possibly 7/8".
I just cant get over the price for a standard mastercylinder then you still need a bias valve for the rear line aswell so your over £200 for that lot. Kad pedalbox £160 plus £25 a cylinder so it works outt he same really and the kad is probably a better set up and less to go wrong with valves etc

Are you on a servo???

[R1minimagic]

I should have a couple of those master cylinders lying around somewhere, so i will use those to start with. Also, losing the servo will knock some more weight off and give a lot more space under the bonnet. The KAD setup does look very nice though!! Do they sell the different size master cylinders at KAD?

[markrally]

I should have a couple of those master cylinders lying around somewhere, so i will use those to start with. Also, losing the servo will knock some more weight off and give a lot more space under the bonnet. The KAD setup does look very nice though!! Do they sell the different size master cylinders at KAD?

They will sell them at KAD but i can get them a lot cheaper from Demon Tweeks.
Im still waiting on a phone call for this little beauty (Genuine Group A Rover mini pedalbox)
Plus he also has a full group A front brake setup aswell

Mark :wales:

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[R1minimagic]

That looks the b***ocks mate!! Do you get everything you need in the kit?? Let me know when you have a price.

Where are these from??

[markrally]

They got plenty of bling factor!!!!!!!!!!!

They are no longer available as they only built 2 Group a coopers and 1 was sold and 1 was broken up. I have got hold of him through the rallying as he is now preparing Mitsubishi evo's but has a few mini bits left over. The front brakes and calipers are seperate discs and alloy bells so i dont know if they will fit under 13"'s
If i get the pedal box im sure i can copy it anyway as i doesnt look a lot too it?

Cheers Mark :wales:

[R1minimagic]

I'm trying to find a better picture of the KAD setup. This is the best i can find so far....

[markrally]

Here is the Kad pedal box.........

Mark :wales:

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[R1minimagic]

I was looking for some that show it installed on the car. Just found these