26 replies to this topic

[crazycoleman118]

a good ol fashioned snow foam is a good start to get rid of the majority of the harsh dirt and bird poo etc.... (sorry i know this is an old thread)

and to do all the wheels/ arches and door shuts first because hosing them down often sprays onto yournice clean paint work

[crystal_10]

It’s simple to wash your car, but you want to do it right. Here are a few tips to protect your car and get it clean.

* Don’t use dish soap. Many people think that this is an acceptable cleaning agent for cars--it’s not. Go to an auto store and look for soaps made specifically for vehicles.

* Use a bucket to mix the soap with water and wash using a big mitt or large sponge. Remember to rinse the sponge/mitt it often to avoid scrubbing dirt and grime back into your car’s finish.

* Wash your car in the shade so that the car itself is cool and you won’t have the sun drying it faster than you can work, leaving spots.

* Start with the wheels, one at a time. Hose down one wheel and then spray on a wheel cleaner on the wheel AND rim. Using a brush scrub down all the dirt and mud. Rinse, and then move on to the next wheel. You’ll be surprised at how nice they look!

* Use a trigger nozzle on the end of the hose. If conserves water and will give a nice, even spray.

* Hose down the car, from top to bottom.

* Using your mitt or sponge, scrub the roof, in straight lines, from the innermost part out to the edges. Using a circular motion is not recommended. Rinse the hood.

* Next, do the sides in the same manner, using straight strokes from top to bottom. Remember to rinse the sponge or mitt frequently!

* After rinsing the sides, do the hood and the trunk.

* Be sure to pay special attention to the bumpers and fenders, especially in the front where bugs tend to accumulate. You’ll probably need extra elbow grease here!

* After these surface areas are finished, spray down the undercarriage to remove the dirt and mud buildup.

* Once the car is completely rinsed, you’ll want to use a clean, soft cloth to dry it. You’ll want to run it lightly over the surface of the car to smooth out the water droplets. Don’t try to rub out the water. You might need to use more than one cloth, depending on its size and the size of your vehicle.

* Waxing should be done according to the wax product’s dircetions, only after your car is completely dry. You should try to wax your car 3 or 4 times per year.

* For the interior, no vacuum works better than one at the do-it-your-self car wash, but if you don’t have access to one, start by shaking out all removable rugs and mats. Vacuum those outside the car and then move in to get what remins. Check our the auto store for cleansers to wash the dash and interior. Like the no-no on the dish soap, you’ll want to find something that works best on your specific interior. Be sure to read all labels and follow instructions exactly. Remember that the better you care for your car, the better you’ll feel driving it, and your resale value will be tremendously higher if you pay attention to cleaning.

[MattDuffy88]

www.detailingworld.co.uk has an enormous wealth of information on it from the latest product reviews to tutorials on how to polish properly.

Check out THIS video too.

With practise and hard work you can end up with an amazing finish!

[beenaada]

There are a vast array of waxes on the market from paint sealants, carnauba waxes and cleaner waxes (all in ones). Waxes also come in paste and liquid form so, which is best for you?

[carts60]

This may be going WELL against general concensus, but i'm of the belief that you DON'T want water beading. Water beads when left to dry leave water marks on the paintwork which are only removed by a lot of elbow grease. I'v always been shown that waxes and polishes which don't bead, but sheet (more like what happens to water on a ducks back) are much better.

Waxes which repel the water and let it run straight off keep the car looking clean for much longer than waxes which cause the water to stick and bead.

The best example of what i mean is this: http://www.cvgreenho.../regular/18.jpg

Can somebody tell me if im right or totally wrong?

[danie garry]

This may be going WELL against general concensus, but i'm of the belief that you DON'T want water beading. Water beads when left to dry leave water marks on the paintwork which are only removed by a lot of elbow grease. I'v always been shown that waxes and polishes which don't bead, but sheet (more like what happens to water on a ducks back) are much better.

Waxes which repel the water and let it run straight off keep the car looking clean for much longer than waxes which cause the water to stick and bead.

The best example of what i mean is this: http://www.cvgreenho.../regular/18.jpg

Can somebody tell me if im right or totally wrong?

what wax's/polishes do this??

[sayli]

I've produced it out and caught it up in my shed on my cleanup products cupboard!

[zbc]

When I painted my Vespa an ex painter told me to wet sand, cut/polish the paint or clear coat then to really get an awesome shine rub some Brasso on.

It works too, apparently its a finer grit than the cutting compound.

After that I polished the paint, came up mint.

[Scoop77]

Brasso! Not for me.

This may be going WELL against general concensus, but i'm of the belief that you DON'T want water beading. Water beads when left to dry leave water marks on the paintwork which are only removed by a lot of elbow grease. I'v always been shown that waxes and polishes which don't bead, but sheet (more like what happens to water on a ducks back) are much better.

Waxes which repel the water and let it run straight off keep the car looking clean for much longer than waxes which cause the water to stick and bead.

The best example of what i mean is this: http://www.cvgreenho.../regular/18.jpg

Can somebody tell me if im right or totally wrong?

what wax's/polishes do this??

A couple of thin, and I mean thin, coats of most waxes or sealants will do this. What I think you pay more for is carnauba content and what ever is added to give longevity. I prefer waxes for dark colours and sealants for lite. My fave product for these dank and dirty months is FK1000P or SP1000P if you get it from Serious Performance. It's a sealant made from synthetic waxes. Lasts for ages. Amazing beading and protection. A tin won't break the bank and will last you years.

[hellom8]

I find if your going to clay bar a car, then doing a full decontamination before hand helps massively.

Snow foam, APC, normal wash and IronX before claying.

Once the car has been paint corrected, it's all about trying not to touch the paint as much as possible, which actually pretty hard to do.

[Mini 360]

The lack of activity in this thread highlights the 'Tcut it' approach Minis are regularly given haha!  Which is so wrong!!!

[Richard1]

I like Meguairs Ultimate both for its shine and ease of application. I can do my Corvair in 30 minutes, and this is how it looks 8 years after painting:

 

This is its effect on my Mini

 

 

I use the Ultimate Detail spray for weekly cleanings if it is only light dust.