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Deox-c Anyone Used It?


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#1 LukeH

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 11:41 AM

Hi,

I've been looking around on the internet for cleaning products and I stumbled across Deox-C. Has anyone got experience using it to clean car parts?

Deox-C

The stuff seems to work really well and I've seen pictures of someone using on their Lotus Elise parts and they look really good afterwards.

If you have used it, how much will I need to buy? I think it comes in 1KG packages.

Thanks,

Luke.

p.s. I want to clean my suspension componets and paint them up, so the bits are fairly dirty.

#2 Carl H

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 01:10 PM

I used it on some parts for my bike. It works well but if I as to do it again I would look into electrolysis instead.

Here's a quick guide to electrolysis http://www.bikechatf....php?p=1995967/

1kg of Deox-C is enough for 20 litres of water at 5% (weakest recommended solution). If you doing big parts a wheelie bin can be useful but uses loads of water. About 1 foot deep was 40 litres so I needed 2kg.

Carl

#3 LukeH

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 02:03 PM

I used it on some parts for my bike. It works well but if I as to do it again I would look into electrolysis instead.

Here's a quick guide to electrolysis http://www.bikechatf....php?p=1995967/

1kg of Deox-C is enough for 20 litres of water at 5% (weakest recommended solution). If you doing big parts a wheelie bin can be useful but uses loads of water. About 1 foot deep was 40 litres so I needed 2kg.

Carl


thats great, thanks for the info.

I'll take a look at the electrolysis as well

Luke.

#4 M44K TS

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 06:45 PM

Thing with electrolysis, don't use an auto battery charger that switches to a trickle charge, (mainly the halfords ones) A mate of mine tried it and it didn't work half as good as the charger went stright into maintenance mode. A regular charger works fine though.

#5 john1.2pearl

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Posted 10 February 2009 - 09:41 PM

I've used electrolysis but was warned about using it on load bearing parts as during the process the metal suffers from "hydrogen embrittlement" of which Hydrogen is trapped inside the structure of the metal causing a weakness unless the part is baked in an oven for a matter of hours to expell the hydrogen :-

Edited by john1.2pearl, 10 February 2009 - 09:42 PM.


#6 LukeH

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:08 PM

I've used electrolysis but was warned about using it on load bearing parts as during the process the metal suffers from "hydrogen embrittlement" of which Hydrogen is trapped inside the structure of the metal causing a weakness unless the part is baked in an oven for a matter of hours to expell the hydrogen :)


Thanks I'll watch out for that.

On another note, I've just ordered 4KG of Deox-C. Hopefully it'll do the trick.

LukeH

#7 Retro_10s

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:16 PM

I've been doing this for the past two weeks It's very good, dunked a whole 998 head in there (that was jet black with about 2mm all round of gunk and oil) and it came up like new, completely de-greased and de rusted. I'm now going to buy a decidated variable power supply to power it rather than a battery charger, simply so that i can have more control,.. I'm looking into something that'll run up about 30v at 10amp ;) this will however give of more Hydrogen,.. so i'm going to make a lid for the tub and glue a tube vent in place so that i can expel the gas easier.

Did a steel wheel for about 1/2 an hour yesterday and a rocker cover,.. both came up well but really it needs to be done for longer.... For the best reaction the part needs to be degreased first and the contact must be bare metal.

Soda crystals cost 65p a bag where i live, I have tried using an Oxy-action stain remover and whilst it stripped the grease off quicker (probably just due to the peroxide in it), the actual electrolytic reaction was slower and therefore not as effective.

Don't use an auto battery charger that switches to a trickle charge


I used a Halfords Automatic charger and i was left on all night without going onto maintenance mode....

Also - it's not electrolysis,... that's a procedure a for hair removal :) It's electrolytic :-

#8 Pooky

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:27 PM

Do we have some sort of guide on setting up this equipment? What we'll need etc? I'd be interested to do brackets etc

#9 Retro_10s

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:29 PM

I'm making one as we speak :)

#10 monkey

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:33 PM

Also - it's not electrolysis,... that's a procedure a for hair removal :) It's electrolytic :-


I dont mean to cause arguments, but it is electrolysis...... wiki electrolysis ;)

#11 Pooky

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:36 PM

I'm making one as we speak ;)


:)

What sort of battery chargers can be used? Does this harm the battery charger in anyway? What can be used as a sacrificial node? Sheet metal? Is there a recommended size of container to do the process in? What's the ratio of baking soda to water or does it depend on how rusty the part is?

Thanks!

#12 Retro_10s

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:47 PM

monkey, we're both right :) <<CLICKY>>

What sort of battery chargers can be used?


Already answered above. Car battery chargers, or any DC supply. Chargers are ideal but a dedicated DC supply gives a better charge and can be cranked up ;) just be wary though - the higher the ampage, the stronger the treatment - the more hydrogen is given off.

Does this harm the battery charger in anyway?

Not if it's done correctly,.. don't let the piece of metal you're treating touch the positive.

What can be used as a sacrificial node?

Sheet metal, anything steel. I was using some sheet steel yesterday. As long as it's steel and clean.

Is there a recommended size of container to do the process in?

the container needs to be big enough to house the part you're cleaning, that's the only thing to think about. I cleaned a Slave cylinder mounting plate from an A+ engine in a small measuring jug. My steel wheel was done in a large plastic container bigger than a fuel tank.

What's the ratio of baking soda to water or does it depend on how rusty the part is?

Just add it so that the water goes a milky colour. There is NO benefit to adding more soda, but if there's not enough it will be hard to get the power through. Adding more soda wont speed the process up. Once the water is conductive enough, that's it.

#13 Pooky

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:49 PM

Nice one! :)

Thanks very much!

Will this do?

Edited by Pooky, 19 February 2009 - 01:52 PM.


#14 monkey

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 02:02 PM

[quote name='Retro_10s' date='Feb 19 2009, 01:47 PM' post='1349763']
monkey, we're both right :) <<CLICKY>>

LOL ;) you learn something new every day! :-

#15 Retro_10s

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 02:11 PM

Pooky, Get a charger that will run at about 2amps, That one you sent me a link for runs at 500ma (milliamps) which is tiny!




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