
Deox-c Anyone Used It?
#1
Posted 10 February 2009 - 11:41 AM
I've been looking around on the internet for cleaning products and I stumbled across Deox-C. Has anyone got experience using it to clean car parts?
Deox-C
The stuff seems to work really well and I've seen pictures of someone using on their Lotus Elise parts and they look really good afterwards.
If you have used it, how much will I need to buy? I think it comes in 1KG packages.
Thanks,
Luke.
p.s. I want to clean my suspension componets and paint them up, so the bits are fairly dirty.
#2
Posted 10 February 2009 - 01:10 PM
Here's a quick guide to electrolysis http://www.bikechatf....php?p=1995967/
1kg of Deox-C is enough for 20 litres of water at 5% (weakest recommended solution). If you doing big parts a wheelie bin can be useful but uses loads of water. About 1 foot deep was 40 litres so I needed 2kg.
Carl
#3
Posted 10 February 2009 - 02:03 PM
I used it on some parts for my bike. It works well but if I as to do it again I would look into electrolysis instead.
Here's a quick guide to electrolysis http://www.bikechatf....php?p=1995967/
1kg of Deox-C is enough for 20 litres of water at 5% (weakest recommended solution). If you doing big parts a wheelie bin can be useful but uses loads of water. About 1 foot deep was 40 litres so I needed 2kg.
Carl
thats great, thanks for the info.
I'll take a look at the electrolysis as well
Luke.
#4
Posted 10 February 2009 - 06:45 PM
#5
Posted 10 February 2009 - 09:41 PM

Edited by john1.2pearl, 10 February 2009 - 09:42 PM.
#6
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:08 PM
I've used electrolysis but was warned about using it on load bearing parts as during the process the metal suffers from "hydrogen embrittlement" of which Hydrogen is trapped inside the structure of the metal causing a weakness unless the part is baked in an oven for a matter of hours to expell the hydrogen
Thanks I'll watch out for that.
On another note, I've just ordered 4KG of Deox-C. Hopefully it'll do the trick.
LukeH
#7
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:16 PM

Did a steel wheel for about 1/2 an hour yesterday and a rocker cover,.. both came up well but really it needs to be done for longer.... For the best reaction the part needs to be degreased first and the contact must be bare metal.
Soda crystals cost 65p a bag where i live, I have tried using an Oxy-action stain remover and whilst it stripped the grease off quicker (probably just due to the peroxide in it), the actual electrolytic reaction was slower and therefore not as effective.
Don't use an auto battery charger that switches to a trickle charge
I used a Halfords Automatic charger and i was left on all night without going onto maintenance mode....
Also - it's not electrolysis,... that's a procedure a for hair removal


#8
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:27 PM
#9
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:29 PM

#10
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:33 PM
Also - it's not electrolysis,... that's a procedure a for hair removal
It's electrolytic
I dont mean to cause arguments, but it is electrolysis...... wiki electrolysis

#11
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:36 PM
I'm making one as we speak

What sort of battery chargers can be used? Does this harm the battery charger in anyway? What can be used as a sacrificial node? Sheet metal? Is there a recommended size of container to do the process in? What's the ratio of baking soda to water or does it depend on how rusty the part is?
Thanks!
#12
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:47 PM

What sort of battery chargers can be used?
Already answered above. Car battery chargers, or any DC supply. Chargers are ideal but a dedicated DC supply gives a better charge and can be cranked up

Not if it's done correctly,.. don't let the piece of metal you're treating touch the positive.Does this harm the battery charger in anyway?
Sheet metal, anything steel. I was using some sheet steel yesterday. As long as it's steel and clean.What can be used as a sacrificial node?
the container needs to be big enough to house the part you're cleaning, that's the only thing to think about. I cleaned a Slave cylinder mounting plate from an A+ engine in a small measuring jug. My steel wheel was done in a large plastic container bigger than a fuel tank.Is there a recommended size of container to do the process in?
Just add it so that the water goes a milky colour. There is NO benefit to adding more soda, but if there's not enough it will be hard to get the power through. Adding more soda wont speed the process up. Once the water is conductive enough, that's it.What's the ratio of baking soda to water or does it depend on how rusty the part is?
#13
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:49 PM
#14
Posted 19 February 2009 - 02:02 PM
monkey, we're both right

LOL


#15
Posted 19 February 2009 - 02:11 PM
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